need help getting started with my tc4

Discussion in 'RC Drifting and Setup' started by butchg, Feb 13, 2006.

  1. butchg

    butchg Guest

    I'm 57 and been in rc for 15 years.. I just bought a Associated TC4 and want to try my hand at drifting but have no idea what gears to run or what motor to get.. I have 3300 match packs for batteries.. I just ordered Yokomo wheels and tires but heard that PVS pipe works good too.

  2. trueno33

    trueno33 Guest

    the tc4 is a nice ride. i run pvc pipes for my tires and its easy to drift. now motor wise go for torqe. i think ive heard that 19 turns work best.
  3. Represent316

    Represent316 Guest

    Ive heard the higher the turn's, the more torque, but to stay in the 19-27t range. Which would tend to make me think a p2k2 would be a decent "Torque" set-up.

    I've got a "Velocity racing" tuned Cham 2 in my TC3. in my driveway [Brushed concrete, decently smooth except where the cuts are..], i can get up to speed at about 1/4-1/2 throttle, then nail it WOT and it'll break traction on Proline V-Ridge street tire's with a locked rear differentual, and 3000mah pack's. 21t[i believe]/72t gearing.

    I'd set the pack's towards the rear of the chassis [I assume it's made to hold 7c pack's, like my TC3, And your using 6c, correct?], as to put weight on the rear. As for camber, Toe-in, Ect, I can't help you with that, as i've got no tool's to measure such, and honestly dont play with them untill i do.

    Have fun.
  4. Kenji_Sasaki

    Kenji_Sasaki Guest

    thats a pretty good setup i must say!
  5. Represent316

    Represent316 Guest

    His TC4, or my TC3?

    My set-up's "decent" [Well, Great for what i paid. LOL. i have ~$100 invested.], but can be made MUCH MUCH better [Even without buying part's.].

    A couple soon to come mod's include a pinion set, 3300+mah batter's, fake cell to hold the battery weight to rear for drifting, Dean's connector's, Battery wire's shortened, and i need to get rechargable's as well..

    After that, Ill buy a droop, and ride height gauge, and start playing with them, as well as camber.

    Im looking for a 190mm Lancer body, as i wanna imitate a 1:1 scale car im in love with, and found the wheel's that are on it on Tower. I may have to go with offset wheel's + 200mm body tho. Tamiya makes a 190mm lancer, but i could buy 200mm body, wheel's, tires, and paint for what i could buy thier body for.
  6. Kenji_Sasaki

    Kenji_Sasaki Guest

    yeah i must say having a heavier car for drifting is a plus in some respect as speed is not a factor most of the time.
  7. Represent316

    Represent316 Guest

    I wouldnt say it's just the weight of the car, but the weight distribution.

    You could add 100lbs, but if it aint in the right spot in the chassis, it's just gonna harm you.

    The more weight in the rear = the further the rear will kick out. But that also mean's the faster it'll gain traction, and straighten up.

    Our TC4/3's, are made to hold 7c battery's. So, when running a 6c, we either have the option of the batt's toward the front, or rear. Rear will cause it to kick out that much more.
  8. Kenji_Sasaki

    Kenji_Sasaki Guest

    i would have to disagree with that one, that setup is used for alot of choku dori drifts on strights but becasuse of the weight in the rear it will kick out and get unbelievable angle but will be extrememly hard to recover, ( car will just basically stay sideways much like an MR ) but on your car i see your not putting the weight to the extreme rear of the chassis so i have to agree with your setup
  9. knightdrift

    knightdrift Guest

    I have a TC3 and i have done the batteries in the far back and yes it gets sideways bigtime but nothing u cant recover