N-Scale Climax ?

Discussion in 'The Academy' started by Tyson Rayles, May 17, 2003.

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  1. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    .I'm in the process of trying to build a N-Scale Climax that will actually run and ( hopefully ) run well enough to use in operation. On another forum we are posting the process as we go along (no two people are building the same thing).This way if I fail to pull this off you all can have a good laugh at my expense :D :D :p :D :rolleyes: :D :D . But that's O.K., I'm used to being laughed at, after all I was married for years! :D Back to topic here. I will be using a Life-Like SW9/1200 for the power plant as it's the smallest good running mech I know of. I won't be able to reduce the height much so I will try to reduce the length as much as I can to give the loco as small a look as possible. It will probably come out looking like a 35-50 tonner (don't think they made Class A's any bigger than 25 tons) but I want to keep as much lead as I can. I will not give up performance for the sake of rivet counting. On that note, I picked the Class A Climax because of all the photos I have no two are quite the same, which helps the defense against rivet counting :D :eek: :D Mine will have the wood stacked on top of the water tank even though this wasn't a common practice, to hide the lead. It will also have the enclosed cab to hide the motor. This first photo shows the two body shells, the 0-6-0 (donated by Charlie, thanks Charlie! :D ) has the boiler section already removed. That is the only section of that loco that will be used and it will have to have alot of modifications. The only thing that will be used off the SW will be the running boards which also carry the electrical contacts. The rest of the body will have to be scratchbuilt.

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  2. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Here we do a test fit of boiler to running board.

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  3. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Here "No Fingers" sees if what we have so far will still run (thankfully it does).

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  4. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    The circled areas show were lead was filed off the back off the chassis, which will be the front of the Climax.

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  5. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    On the other end the only mod so far is removal of the printed circuit board.

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  6. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    As much as I hated to lose all that weight, the underside of the Climax is fairly open and airy. With only the smallish gearbox and driveshafts able to be seen so the big hunk of lead that the sand/fuel tanks fit over has been downsized a bunch.

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  7. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Here is the boiler mods that I've done. Comments are always welcome.

    1- Removed the section that had the bell on it. This was done mainly to help shorten the loco. The bell will be remounted on the roof as was the more common practice.
    2- Added the baloon stack
    3-Moved the headlight out over the front of the smokebox as was again the more common practice
    4- Removed the dome that was to the right of the bell and the lines going to it, most pictures I have don't show one there.

    I hope this helps to hide the 0-6-0 heritage some and give it more of a Climax look.

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  8. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Here is a side view of my 1st attemp at a water tank w/firewood.

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  9. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    A top view. Duh, forgot the hatch so you could put the water in! :eek: One more thing on the to do list.

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  10. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    My 1st thoughts on a carbody side. I would still want to close in the window opening some, also need to build a door. Comments anyone?????

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  11. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Thanks Pete! :) Shamus you are correct in that many didn't have doors, but I need something to keep the motor from being seen. May try the cloth hanging in the door like I've seen in some photos, what do you think?
  12. Catt

    Catt Guest

    How about painting the motor area black.Then put a standing crewmember in the doorway on each side.

    By the way your giving me the itch to do one of these for the Grande Valley.:D
  13. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    That's a thought Catt. Course that means I'd have 2 crew members goofing off on company time instead of one. :D :p :rolleyes: :D
  14. Greg Elems

    Greg Elems Member

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    Tyson, I still don't hear anyone laughing. Catt's idea about the two crew men is good. Remember, they had to move around in those things and just cause they are standing in the doorway doesn't mean they are goofing off. If they were both on the same side, then you might have a point. But then they could have been posing for an old time photo, where they had to stand still for a short period of time to get the picture. As usual, great modeling.

    Greg Elems
  15. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

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    Re: Keep those pics coming!

    Looks wonderful, Tyson, I have an HOn30 version in the works now. Well, right now it's sitting there, but as soon as I get those LPBs off their butts and back to work on it, it'll be in the works.

    TC - check out Mark Rollins's HOn30 Climax . I'm not using the kit, but the plans are helpfull.

    Ty - you might like Mark's side frames, which are available seperately, .53" axle to axle. Won't fit my chassis, so I am going scratch all the way on this one.
  16. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Thanks Rory and it's good to see you are still around my friend! Jon up your meds! :D Mark's HO side frames won't work to well in N scale. :D :p :D Well here is the final (I hope :rolleyes: ) version of the water tank. I sloped the sides some from the top of the tank down to the firewood, did (again I hope :p ) a better job on the rivets and added a hatch so water could actually be put it the tank! :D

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  17. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Top view

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  18. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    For a sense of actual size

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  19. jkristia

    jkristia Member

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    sure looks great, those pieces of fire wood looks amazingly real, how did you do?, both the wood and the tank, what is it made of?

    Jesper
  20. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Jesper the firewood is real. It's a dead twig off a maple tree that was cut to length and then the peices were split with a single edge razor blade. The tank is made out of styrene, the pointed end of a mini-file was used to "punch" the rivets from the back side. The water hatch is half a window shutter off a cheapo model power house. The weathering was done with pastel chalks. Hope this helps you! :)
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