My Layout: Atlas N4

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by kf4jqd, Sep 30, 2006.

  1. kf4jqd

    kf4jqd Active Member

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    I am done laying the track! However, The Hobby Lobby had no rail insulator joiners. :curse: So right now, I can only run one train.:cry: It's a long ways from being finished.:rolleyes:

    Andy:wave:

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  2. Chessie6459

    Chessie6459 Gauge Oldtimer

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    Looking Good Andy.:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
  3. umtrr-author

    umtrr-author Member

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    How many insulated joiners do you need? I forget how many are called out in the plan. I have four sitting here with nothing to do. PM me with your address and I will be happy to put them in the mail to you.
  4. Grotto

    Grotto Member

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    I also am working on my version of N4. I have the scenery all done etc, but due to confusion by me on where to place the insultors, I havn't run it.
    I could throw some in the mail if you need some.

    I didn't even know that I needed to put insulators on the switches.
    Grotto
  5. umtrr-author

    umtrr-author Member

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    I don't remember where my copy of "A Clear Track To N Gauge Fun" is which is I think where the N4 plan resides, but...

    The typical places to put insulated rail joiners on a double track loop would be in the crossovers. That would allow trains to run independently on each of the loops. Depending on whether the layout is going to be wired for dual cab control (i.e. an Atlas Selector is to be used), you would gap one or both rails. There are differences of opinion on this.

    What I wasn't clear on is how many blocks the loops themselves are divided into, and whether the two spurs in the center of the layout were made into another block.
  6. Grotto

    Grotto Member

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  7. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

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    Look forward to your progress and...if there ain't enough insulators already in the offing, I can make up the rest:thumb:
  8. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    You can make your own gaps: Leave off the metal rail joiner and place a small piece of insulating material (flat toothpick, plastic) between the rail ends. Epxt it in place and carve it down so there's no bump on the running side.
    Only concern: it won't hold the rails in line.
  9. kf4jqd

    kf4jqd Active Member

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    umtrr-author:
    I went to Hobby Towne yesterday. I baught some. Thank you for the offer! :thumb:

    Grotto:
    I will up load a picture with arrows where to put the insulators. The diagram is very confusing! I made both trains run at the same time with one throttle until I figured it out! :rolleyes: When you look down at the diagram, the "top" rail of each line is your common. Make sure when you connect them to each throttle control. You make a jumper wire connecting them together. The bottom rail of each line, you connect the power. One from each throttle. DO NOT tie these together!!!!! The insulators goes fork of each hot rail. Hopefully you can read the diagram. Where the arrows point, you add your insulators.


    Andy:wave:

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  10. kf4jqd

    kf4jqd Active Member

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    I laid my roadbed today. I used Woodland Scenic's road bed. I actually used their O Scale on the 2 maine lines! It worked slicked!:D I am not sure about the inner part. I might add more switches.

    Andy:wave:

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  11. Chessie6459

    Chessie6459 Gauge Oldtimer

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    Great view Andy.:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
  12. umtrr-author

    umtrr-author Member

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    Another way of thinking of which rail is the common and which isn't is considering the "inside" and "outside" rails, as viewed from the center.

    On pikes of this type, I would make the "inside" rail the common and the "outside" the gapped rail. It was easier for me to get wiring in that way.