C
Catt
Ok,I started this little project out with camera in hand and ended up with a converted loco and 12 useless pics.
So now I get to see how well I can put this across in words alone.This project also applies to the Bachmann H16-44 N scale loco.
1 Turn your victim (err patient) upside down.At either end you will see 2 tiny phillips head screws holding a black bracket in place.Remove these screws and the retaining bracket along with the dummy coupler.You can trash all this stuff if you want (I saved the screws)
2 Now that you have all that stuff out of the way you will see a square box shaped opening (for lack of a better description).I take a piece of .100" square Evergreen styrene stock and sand two sides till it is a press fit in said square opening.The plan is to remove just enough that the square stock is basically a force fit and will not fall out.
3 Now take a Tpin,push pin,or needle (something with a sharp point on the end)and make a starter hole for a #62 drill bit.I usually drill all the way through the pilot deck.Tap this hole with a .0090" tap.
4 Before you install the coupler (in my case I used the MTL 2004,but the 1015/16 can also be used)site through the coupler opening in the pilot and make sure that the styrene you put in the square opening is level with everything else.I use a hexhead .0090" screw to install my couplers because for me they are less hassle than a tiny slotted head screw.
MTL supplies shims with these couplers that can be used on top of the coupler if they are too high,but if the coupler is to low you will need to file the opening to raise the coupler.I forgot to mention that I glue small spacer blocks to either side of the coupler to limit sideways movement of the coupler box itself.
Any questions? Feel free to ask.
So now I get to see how well I can put this across in words alone.This project also applies to the Bachmann H16-44 N scale loco.
1 Turn your victim (err patient) upside down.At either end you will see 2 tiny phillips head screws holding a black bracket in place.Remove these screws and the retaining bracket along with the dummy coupler.You can trash all this stuff if you want (I saved the screws)
2 Now that you have all that stuff out of the way you will see a square box shaped opening (for lack of a better description).I take a piece of .100" square Evergreen styrene stock and sand two sides till it is a press fit in said square opening.The plan is to remove just enough that the square stock is basically a force fit and will not fall out.
3 Now take a Tpin,push pin,or needle (something with a sharp point on the end)and make a starter hole for a #62 drill bit.I usually drill all the way through the pilot deck.Tap this hole with a .0090" tap.
4 Before you install the coupler (in my case I used the MTL 2004,but the 1015/16 can also be used)site through the coupler opening in the pilot and make sure that the styrene you put in the square opening is level with everything else.I use a hexhead .0090" screw to install my couplers because for me they are less hassle than a tiny slotted head screw.
MTL supplies shims with these couplers that can be used on top of the coupler if they are too high,but if the coupler is to low you will need to file the opening to raise the coupler.I forgot to mention that I glue small spacer blocks to either side of the coupler to limit sideways movement of the coupler box itself.
Any questions? Feel free to ask.