Modelik Flower class corvette

[cdcoyle]

wheelhouse railings

Here's a shot of some of the wheelhouse railings. The technique I use is the same as has been discussed elsewhere in the forum, namely straightened wire for the stanchions and thread for the rails. I started off using a tan thread and then painting it once applied, but then I thought, "Duh! Check the wife's sewing supplies!" And lo and behold! I found a gray thread that matches great. So I 'liberated' it. I have liberated many great modeling supplies from the wife's sewing and craft supplies! :grin: BTW, there is a mistake on the railing for the ladder from the wheelhouse to the bridge deck (upper part of photo) -- bonus points for anyone who can identify it! :twisted:

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

bridge railings finished!

Finally...all of the wheelhouse and bridge railings are done. I had to resort back to all-wire railings, as some of the curves were just too hard to get right with the thread. And I want you all to know that those railings in the back with the extra curves were just as difficult to make as they look! :-D 8)

Bye for now,

 

[cdcoyle]

bridge railings finished!

Finally...all of the wheelhouse and bridge railings are done. I had to resort back to all-wire railings, as some of the curves were just too hard to get right with the thread. And I want you all to know that those railings in the back with the extra curves were just as difficult to make as they look! :-D 8)

Bye for now,

 

[barry]

Railings

Splendid job more a work of art

 

[barry]

Railings

Splendid job more a work of art

 

[eibwarrior]

Excellent work! Good looking rails. Some of the best I've seen.

 

[eibwarrior]

Excellent work! Good looking rails. Some of the best I've seen.

 

[cdcoyle]

Thanks for the compliments,fellas. The instructions come with full-size plans for the various scratch-built details, including the rails. I used them as a template during construction. First I covered them with some cellophane tape to help prevent glue sticking to the plans. I straighten the wire by pulling on both ends simultaneously with pliers; the shaping is done with round-nose and flat-nose pliers. The rails are glued to the stanchions with fast-cure CA applied with a home-made applicator. CA is not the best adhesive for metal-to-metal, but as long as no one knocks the model around too much, it should be OK. (I'm reminded of a modeler acquaintance who a few years back had a finished Revell 1/72 HMCS Snowberry on display at a convention. His model was also made using CA glue. Prior to the show actually opening, the model's display table collapsed, and virtually all the CA joints popped loose, leaving a collection of parts, just as if they had all just been detached from their sprues. This modeler showed a remarkable degree of coolness about the whole affair, and the next day at the show there was a small patch of blue clay with the corvette's mast protruding from it, along with a small paper caption that read "@#$% U-boats!")

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

Thanks for the compliments,fellas. The instructions come with full-size plans for the various scratch-built details, including the rails. I used them as a template during construction. First I covered them with some cellophane tape to help prevent glue sticking to the plans. I straighten the wire by pulling on both ends simultaneously with pliers; the shaping is done with round-nose and flat-nose pliers. The rails are glued to the stanchions with fast-cure CA applied with a home-made applicator. CA is not the best adhesive for metal-to-metal, but as long as no one knocks the model around too much, it should be OK. (I'm reminded of a modeler acquaintance who a few years back had a finished Revell 1/72 HMCS Snowberry on display at a convention. His model was also made using CA glue. Prior to the show actually opening, the model's display table collapsed, and virtually all the CA joints popped loose, leaving a collection of parts, just as if they had all just been detached from their sprues. This modeler showed a remarkable degree of coolness about the whole affair, and the next day at the show there was a small patch of blue clay with the corvette's mast protruding from it, along with a small paper caption that read "@#$% U-boats!")

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

Bridge completed!

A milestone is reached! The bridge is finished (well...except for the tiny v-shaped extensions for the shade canopy poles :cry: ). Nothing out of the ordinary to report as far as construction techniques. Now, it's on to the funnel and ventilators!

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

I had the day off today and finished off the engine room skylight.

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

funnel

Work is progressing steadily. The funnel is a tube-within-a-tube structure, with spacers to properly position the outer tube. It went together easily, and I'm pleased that it actually looks like a tube and not, say, like a corrugated pipe culvert!

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

I finally got the rest of the funnel assembly completed. There are a lot of aggravating little parts in this assembly...said aggravation being worsened by the frequent dropping of tiny parts on the floor! :-D I noticed afterwards that the cowl ventilator tops should actually be round. They just naturally went together oval-shaped, so I assumed (yeah, I know...I know!!) that that's the way they were supposed to be. *sigh*

Regards,

 

[eibwarrior]

Very nice, clean work Chris. The funnel assembly looks perfect.

I know what you're saying about dropping those tiny parts on the floor. I hope you have wood floors in your studio like I do. I find broom and dust pan retrieval usually do the trick.

Say, is that a bottle of Future floor wax I see in the background? Nothing says "slick, wet" model water like Future!:-D

 

[Gregory Shoda]

retrieving small parts

I've lost a ton of small parts on my carpet (plush pile type). I have found that using a flashlight or a lamp (held close to the ground) is the fastest way to locate parts.

BTW: Nice work on the bridge. Very well done!

 

[cdcoyle]

Thanks, guys. My work area floor is concrete, so I don't usually have too much trouble finding the dropped parts...it's just that it's so annoying having to slide the chair back, stoop down, look around, put the chair up to the bench again. I have been working on the forward gun platform and will post pictures soon.

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

mushroom vents

Now that the funnel is done, work on the fo'c's'le can commence. First come the mushroom vents, and here is a bit of potential dilemma for anyone building this model. There are 7 vents total (six small, one larger), but the locations for only three of them are indicated in the diagrams. Fortunately, the locations where they should be glued are marked on the deck, and with the help of the AOS book, I was able to figure out which ones went where. Turns out the mystery vents are all located beneath the 4-inch gun platform, hence their not being shown in the diagrams. The photo below shows the vents in place, with the circled ones being the 'mystery' vents.

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

gun platform

Next, a few not-very-exciting shots of the 4-inch gun platform under construction, starting with the base and the platform itself with its supporting girders.

 

[cdcoyle]

Here's a pic of the gun platform with the topside details added (hoist, lockers, shell holders, depression guard, railings). I ran into some minor fit problems with the platform. The skirt piece is a tad too long, and the netting is a tad too short. I used a highly sophisticated fix-it method for both of these. It's called "fudging". The netting comes as two pieces, but I decided it would be easier to mount if it were cut into individual sections. The platform has 12 supports, and each of them has 6 pieces :cry: . I'm going to try and get those done tomorrow.

Regards,

 

[cdcoyle]

gun platform

The forward 4" gun platform is finished (whew!). Here's a couple of shots, along with the gun mount. The platform supports turned out to be a bit of a chore, especially since I first attempted to attach them to the platform with the platform off the hull. Of course, once attached, they turned out to be too long and lifted the platform mount about 2 mm above the hull! So I had to carefully detach them, glue down the platform, and then re-attach the supports. But...all done now. Time to start the gun itself!

Regards,