Modelik Flower class corvette

barry

Active Member
ship service

Chris

That would make me nearer to ninety when I said "played" I meant just that, I was 8 years old and had not seen my father for 4 years so the navy turned a blind eye to a hero worshipping kid and let me roam around "Nasturtum" to my hearts content, being a right bloody nuisance getting myself covered in paint and grease and trying to break my neck with the skipper feeding me more chocolate in a day than I had seen through the whole of the war.

I never forgot that ship and the hours I spent on her. If I remember rightly she was being done up to go to the Indian navy(but I may well be wrong). She was laid up on the river Dart at the time so everyday I got at least two rides a day in a landing craft through rows of MTB's, MGB's, Destroyers, Corvettes and even a light cruiser. Tried to join the navy for National Service but they threw me out for health reasons they even sent me a nice letter that I would not be required in peace or war grade 4 more trouble to my own side than the enemy I think.Not heroic but then I'm not, left that to the old man he had done enough for both of us plus the fact the family said they had enough sailors and fishermen without me joining in.Nearest I got was the cold war running the Missile Impact Predictor on BMEWS and at least then my opposite number was a Russian who I always felt was as interested in staying alive as I was. Pity it's all started again does nobody ever learn ?

I think your corvette is a Canadian version Nastutium still had an open bridge it must have been cold on the Atlantic. There are plans for her on the net I should build her sometime.

regards
 

beejay

New Member
Hi all
H.M.S. NASTURTIUM
Flower Class Corvette, ordered under the 1939 programme, built by Smiths Dock (the designers) and completed in 4 months and 3 days on 26.9.1940. (Originally ordered for the French Navy as La Paimpolaise but taken over by the R.N. on the stocks after the fall of France.)
Pennant number K107
Battle Honours : ATLANTIC 1940-45, NORMANDY 1944 and ENGLISH CHANNEL 1944-45
27.6.1941 shared in the sinking of U-556 with 2 other Flower Class Corvettes, H.M.S. CELANDINE and H.M.S. GLADIOLUS
Sold in 1948 as Greek mercantile CANIA, later purchased by the Greek Navy and re-named R.H.N. St. Lykoudis. She was used as a ligthouse tender until discarded and scrapped in 1976.
In British & Empire Warships of WW2, on page 272 , there is a photo of her taken in 1942, showing the forecastle extended aft but still with the mast stepped in front of the (open) bridge.
Hope this helps
VBR
 

beejay

New Member
Hi all
H.M.S. NASTURTIUM
Flower Class Corvette, ordered under the 1939 programme, built by Smiths Dock (the designers) and completed in 4 months and 3 days on 26.9.1940. (Originally ordered for the French Navy as La Paimpolaise but taken over by the R.N. on the stocks after the fall of France.)
Pennant number K107
Battle Honours : ATLANTIC 1940-45, NORMANDY 1944 and ENGLISH CHANNEL 1944-45
27.6.1941 shared in the sinking of U-556 with 2 other Flower Class Corvettes, H.M.S. CELANDINE and H.M.S. GLADIOLUS
Sold in 1948 as Greek mercantile CANIA, later purchased by the Greek Navy and re-named R.H.N. St. Lykoudis. She was used as a ligthouse tender until discarded and scrapped in 1976.
In British & Empire Warships of WW2, on page 272 , there is a photo of her taken in 1942, showing the forecastle extended aft but still with the mast stepped in front of the (open) bridge.
Hope this helps
VBR
 

cdcoyle

Member
I need your input!

Well, guys (and gals), I have two more sets of stairs to do and then it's off to the next major phase of construction -- the bridge. The kit is designed and the parts printed so that the bridge can be built with or without inner detail. The bridge skin has printed windows on it; these are cut out (and must subsequently be glazed) if one chooses to show the inside.

The dilemma: Build the insides, or not?

If it was my model alone, I would definitely go for the extra detail. But I'm building the model for a friend to use as a visual aid in an 8th-grade language arts class. I need to finish the model by sometime early next year, and building the inner details will certainly increase the overall build time, what with the extra parts and the new construction challenges to overcome. On the other hand, the printed windows do leave something to be desired, and the bridge details would probably be interesting.

I'm torn!!

What do you folks think? Extra detail, or quick and simple? Pros and cons? Let me know (I'm kind of taking this as a straw poll)!

Regards.
 

cdcoyle

Member
I need your input!

Well, guys (and gals), I have two more sets of stairs to do and then it's off to the next major phase of construction -- the bridge. The kit is designed and the parts printed so that the bridge can be built with or without inner detail. The bridge skin has printed windows on it; these are cut out (and must subsequently be glazed) if one chooses to show the inside.

The dilemma: Build the insides, or not?

If it was my model alone, I would definitely go for the extra detail. But I'm building the model for a friend to use as a visual aid in an 8th-grade language arts class. I need to finish the model by sometime early next year, and building the inner details will certainly increase the overall build time, what with the extra parts and the new construction challenges to overcome. On the other hand, the printed windows do leave something to be desired, and the bridge details would probably be interesting.

I'm torn!!

What do you folks think? Extra detail, or quick and simple? Pros and cons? Let me know (I'm kind of taking this as a straw poll)!

Regards.
 

missymouse

New Member
hey CD. got a sudgestion for your next paper ship, if the model calls for 2mm, especialy modeilk kits but the slots are less than 2mm. use illustration board. its about 1.6 or 1.7mm, with spray glue and the parts on the board, it has a snug but not tight fit, so makes it easier to go together. just avoid the cold press board, that stuff is 2.30mm thick, the illustration board i use is found at office max and costs about $4 a sheet but they're like 26x30 in sheets so all the "2mm" parts for the agassiz i have found will fit on the entire boards with about a 5x26 chunk left over. on my build i'm still working on the hull, trying to smooth it out some more and paint it up below the waterline and got alot of work ahead of me, but then again i also got the HMS savage from gremir models and restarted the polonia kit, so doing all 3 at the same time. but good luck and try the illustation board :)
 

missymouse

New Member
hey CD. got a sudgestion for your next paper ship, if the model calls for 2mm, especialy modeilk kits but the slots are less than 2mm. use illustration board. its about 1.6 or 1.7mm, with spray glue and the parts on the board, it has a snug but not tight fit, so makes it easier to go together. just avoid the cold press board, that stuff is 2.30mm thick, the illustration board i use is found at office max and costs about $4 a sheet but they're like 26x30 in sheets so all the "2mm" parts for the agassiz i have found will fit on the entire boards with about a 5x26 chunk left over. on my build i'm still working on the hull, trying to smooth it out some more and paint it up below the waterline and got alot of work ahead of me, but then again i also got the HMS savage from gremir models and restarted the polonia kit, so doing all 3 at the same time. but good luck and try the illustation board :)
 
C

cgutzmer

Go quick and simple. If its a visual aid for a class that age it will defintely get handled and likely mangled..... ;) just my 2 cents though!
Chris
 
C

cgutzmer

Go quick and simple. If its a visual aid for a class that age it will defintely get handled and likely mangled..... ;) just my 2 cents though!
Chris
 

Bluenoser

Member
I would leave the printed windows in the bridge unless the lesson is going to talk about details on the bridge. Better still, if you need to detail the bridge, you could scan the bridge and its interior components only and scale it up. Build this as a seperate visual aid. Leave the roof off it and then you will at least be able to see whats going on in there.
 

Bluenoser

Member
I would leave the printed windows in the bridge unless the lesson is going to talk about details on the bridge. Better still, if you need to detail the bridge, you could scan the bridge and its interior components only and scale it up. Build this as a seperate visual aid. Leave the roof off it and then you will at least be able to see whats going on in there.
 

cdcoyle

Member
wheelhouse ladder

Here's a shot of the completed wheelhouse ladder. The starboard-side ladder has since been finished as well. Now it's on to the wheelhouse itself. I've opted to leave out the inside details in order to pare down the construction time -- it will still look pretty good in any case.

Regards,
 

cdcoyle

Member
wheelhouse ladder

Here's a shot of the completed wheelhouse ladder. The starboard-side ladder has since been finished as well. Now it's on to the wheelhouse itself. I've opted to leave out the inside details in order to pare down the construction time -- it will still look pretty good in any case.

Regards,
 
Excellent job on the stairs, ladders and rails. Good craftsmanship.

I think that's a good call on the wheelhouse details. Those small elements could become very time consuming, but it shouldn't compromise the quality of your build to leave the windows in.

Good call...
 
Excellent job on the stairs, ladders and rails. Good craftsmanship.

I think that's a good call on the wheelhouse details. Those small elements could become very time consuming, but it shouldn't compromise the quality of your build to leave the windows in.

Good call...
 

cdcoyle

Member
wheelhouse

Here are some progress shots of the wheelhouse. Since I left out the internal detials (which saved me cutting out and assembling 72 parts, including some fiddly structures such as the binnacle, wheel, and engine room telegraph), I added some basswood stringers for support. One problem that has cropped up several times during this build, including on the wheelhouse, is the fascia trim being too short. I patched it up -- hope it isn't too obvious.

Regards,
 

cdcoyle

Member
wheelhouse

Here are some progress shots of the wheelhouse. Since I left out the internal detials (which saved me cutting out and assembling 72 parts, including some fiddly structures such as the binnacle, wheel, and engine room telegraph), I added some basswood stringers for support. One problem that has cropped up several times during this build, including on the wheelhouse, is the fascia trim being too short. I patched it up -- hope it isn't too obvious.

Regards,
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
Hi, Chris:

This is one awesome build, and your photography as well as your craftsmanship are superb. Just beautiful!

You were saying something about the fascia trim? Beats me, I can't see anything amiss at all in this build, mate!

Cheers!
Jim
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
Hi, Chris:

This is one awesome build, and your photography as well as your craftsmanship are superb. Just beautiful!

You were saying something about the fascia trim? Beats me, I can't see anything amiss at all in this build, mate!

Cheers!
Jim
 

cdcoyle

Member
wheelhouse railings

Here's a shot of some of the wheelhouse railings. The technique I use is the same as has been discussed elsewhere in the forum, namely straightened wire for the stanchions and thread for the rails. I started off using a tan thread and then painting it once applied, but then I thought, "Duh! Check the wife's sewing supplies!" And lo and behold! I found a gray thread that matches great. So I 'liberated' it. I have liberated many great modeling supplies from the wife's sewing and craft supplies! :grin: BTW, there is a mistake on the railing for the ladder from the wheelhouse to the bridge deck (upper part of photo) -- bonus points for anyone who can identify it! :twisted:

Regards,
 
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