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Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by anthony344, May 3, 2012.
& more pics of the Left engine.
More of the pics Left engine.
Looks absolutely great!!
Thanks buddy:thumb:, I'm so loving it already. i can't wait to build the other 3 engine.
bummer i just got an email of my order about the 150 white LEDs & it's is on back order so i won't get it until the second week in June.:cry: but not to worry at least i still got to build the other 3 engine to get me going until then.
here is the quick rough drawn pic of my light setup. i had to do both a separate connection , the room space is to tight to joint all 4 strips up together in the engine case of the normandy SR1.
oh wow this is so awesome thanks so much ekuth :thumb: , & it's right on my birthday month too.:smile: Only six more days to go.
Congratulations!! Just out of curiosity, how long are each led sections and what is the max forward voltage, and are they dimm-able? Just curious?
It looks great...
Zathros : Here is the pic that i added of each LEDs space apart & the total length of each strips. each single SMD LEDs on the strips are Superbright 3528 SMD top LED. These LEDs can be dimm-able , flash & what ever you want it to do.
Most workable voltage can run in between 12v to 6v, the amps if running 300 LEDs needs at least 2.5amps at 12v or 6v input & single strips at 3 LEDs needs running at 0.02ma at 12v or 6v input.for me running 12 strips of the total 36 LEDs on the engines it's running at 0.24ma at 12v for super brightness if i want to have those 36 blue LEDs dimm then i run it at 6v at 0.24ma. I need to go for a 0.65ma at 12v transformer for a safe range so it will not put a great deal of a drain out of the 12v transformer. but most transformer like multi tap transformer at 12v can range from 65mA ,125ma,500ma & above.
Here is a pic of the OT942 stepdown voltage module what is going to power up most of the LEDs & also driving the arduino uno SMD board that i'm going to use but i need to calculate the total of volts & amps that it going to drive all of this so i can feed it to the OT942 volt module board, which it can produce up to 3Amps out & 1.21-18VDC. The flashing board that i design did not work to what i wanted for the flashing sequence on each light.
if you need more info let me know.:thumb:
Congrats mate, amazing project and very informative!
Thanks buddy , i'm just finishing off your mini version of the Normandy alliance SR2 so i can post it on top of every part that i make of the big SR1 Normandy.:mrgreen: Thanks for this mini SR2 it's so tiny but cute to hold & this is my first mini build i have ever done.
Too bad you didn't have a beefy Rheostat with a strong ammeter, then you could do hard core actual measurements in real time. Looks great though. Who supplied the LEDS?
Very Nice!!! Um, can I get a set of prints? Pretty Please?
For me i only use 40,000 Count IP67 True RMS Cat IV Digital multimeter worth at $200 buck that does all the checking that required for amps , ma , RMS output , volts in AC & DC , ect but i still like the Analogue Movement Multimeter as well sometimes the digital multimeters has a down side in using them.
For Rheostat i have heard of them but for me i like sticking with the smaller digital compact version of checking Milliamp , amps.:mrgreen:
For the white LEDs i get them at http://www.futurlec.com/Components.shtml
For the Blue strips LEDs i just got them on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5M-300LE...Accessories&hash=item2a12d07ffa#ht_4206wt_905
are you referring to a paper model mesh of my Normandy SR1 Lights setup?:mrgreen: if it is don't worry it will be posted here for others to download it after i have completely finish the setup.
I used to use a variac ( I have a really beefy one, with and isolation transformer built in,I think they all are?) anyways, with an ammeter needle gauge in series to get an actual load, I already knew what the drop off was, so it was easy calculate a circuit. This was at the birth of the internet when a repair/specifications manual usually cost $40 bucks. I was doing repair though, not design. There was nothing worse than losing an ammeter from running too many amps through it. Now, it's pretty easy to get the specs for anything.
I still have a couple of 100 Megahertz O'scopes, but I don't do much with electronics anymore. I made some electrostatic speakers, and a pair of tapered 1/4 wave tubes, but that's about it. I enjoy vintage audio. I have more fun in my barn working my milling machine, lathe, and Mig/Tig, welders. I'm behind the times with electronics. I only know what I need to, to fix my car,TV etc. Otherwise, I'm lost!
I like the setup with the new amp multimeters under load i can check what's current has drop from the amplifiers if i see a great deal of drop & i know that the transformer is not enough to provide the power cunsumtion of the hole amp. like one amp i design 12 transistor MJL21193 6x , MJL21194 6x i'm running at 1000va Toroidal 70 + at 70 - 5A for that, but if i was to crank up the volume all the way i can see there is about 1A coverage for the hole amp to run & also the 10x 10,000uf 100v electro power supply to keep up with the power.
Most amplifier i design i know what transformer to run now but most transformer are made by a special order i place. I have done alot amps it's crazy
But me electronics has died out of me & this new paper hobby has taken over it.:mrgreen:
Hey john those 100MHz that you got are they digital Oscilloscope With duel channel or analog Oscilloscope. I got one 100MHz Digital Osc & one 50MHz Digital Osc & plus one Handheld Oscilloscope Multimeter 100MHz but it to pricey to use.here the one i buy off ebay.
Like me i get alot of neighbours come to me to fix there DVR , tv , surround sound , Hi-FI although it's good i get money on the side for fix it but some times i get sick of doing it alot.
Great work, and congrats from the maker of MotM #2!
I love to see your progress. Keep it on! :thumb:
Thanks mate, don't worry i'm still at it the lower Engine glow it is slow putting 21 strips of reflector in place & keeping it straight & true. Also the lower engine is a little small on the glow then the upper engine. I can only put 2 strips of blue lights making a total of 6 LEDs. you will see the pic progress soon of what i have done.:thumb:
Another Update : I have found some more location of the lights to put on the Normandy SR1 & also on the lower wing i have design a completely different mounting system on the fuselarge that you might be impressed with. But there is a countdown to that later on in the progress of what's been happening.:mrgreen::mrgreen:
New update texture on the Wing & Ribs.
First pic is the new texture i have done for the hole Normandy SR1. as you can see the one on the left is the wing from daishi model with the standard texture & the one on the right is my texture on the wing with a slight colour & brightness update. also the wing from the right if you look carefully you can see a big change on the lower wing. there is access hole in the wing for the wire to run through. then there is a LEDs support that goes at the front of the wing for two LEDs to be mounted.
Next pic is the ribs for the lower wing for strength & access holes for the wires to go through.
Next post is the lower Left engine build where i'm up to.:thumb:
Lower left engine build.
Here is where i'm up to on the lower left engine build. the lower engines is a bit harder to build then the upper engine. For the engine i had to limited the amount of strips of reflector from 21 strips to 15 strips for the gap clearance for the light to pass through.there is almost 3mm gap clearance between each strips.
Most of the card i used is 1.5mm thick on the flat parts but then i also used strips 0.8mm card in small areas as well.also i found some flat white foam sheets in a box that works great. i used it in the back of the engine case for a glowing affect.see in below pic from the last one.
That's it for now more pics on lower left engine when it's completed.