M48A3 Patton Tank Design

Discussion in 'Gallery & Designs' started by John Griffin, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    Well, here goes. I haven't done a design thread on anyting yet so I might as well start here, with something different- a tank.

    I chose the M48 because I like the tough look of it, the era it was created for, all those ld war movies, and the challenge of the complex hull shape- especially the nose, turret, and hull bottom.

    I will add screen captured images of the design-in-progess here (if I figure out how). That seems alot easier than taking photos of the real model- I am lousy photographer (my friend had to take all the decent shots of my Tempest and P-47).

    Here goes: So far I have the basic hull, glacis, forward deck and engine cover rudiments done. I am debating whether or not to add individual louvres to the engine-top grilles or just do them in 2d. Maybe both- paint them on but also build them; giving the modeler a choice. Any suggestions?
  2. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    Well, here goes. I haven't done a design thread on anyting yet so I might as well start here, with something different- a tank.

    I chose the M48 because I like the tough look of it, the era it was created for, all those ld war movies, and the challenge of the complex hull shape- especially the nose, turret, and hull bottom.

    I will add screen captured images of the design-in-progess here (if I figure out how). That seems alot easier than taking photos of the real model- I am lousy photographer (my friend had to take all the decent shots of my Tempest and P-47).

    Here goes: So far I have the basic hull, glacis, forward deck and engine cover rudiments done. I am debating whether or not to add individual louvres to the engine-top grilles or just do them in 2d. Maybe both- paint them on but also build them; giving the modeler a choice. Any suggestions?
  3. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    OK I added two images. Can somebody PLEASE explain to me how I can embed them directly into the thread instead of just adding a link to them?

    Thanks.
  4. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    OK I added two images. Can somebody PLEASE explain to me how I can embed them directly into the thread instead of just adding a link to them?

    Thanks.
  5. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    1st:
    Upload to your album here on the site, or favorite online photo sharing/storage site.

    2nd:
    use the following tags [​IMG]

    and all that is the way you can embed photos in your posts like most of us do

    Rick
  6. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    1st:
    Upload to your album here on the site, or favorite online photo sharing/storage site.

    2nd:
    use the following tags [​IMG]

    and all that is the way you can embed photos in your posts like most of us do

    Rick
  7. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    Thanks, I'll try it.
  8. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    Thanks, I'll try it.
  9. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    I like the idea of choice in the level of detail. I've noticed that some AFV model designers are supplying alternate modules - one simple the other detailed. As an example - say for the engine grille - during design the grille and the support frame is separated from the rest of the hull and alternate patterns are supplied - one simple the other with detail. It also means that someone constructing the model can easily scratch build if they prefer their own method of adding detail without having to do major surgery to the rest of the model.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  10. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    I like the idea of choice in the level of detail. I've noticed that some AFV model designers are supplying alternate modules - one simple the other detailed. As an example - say for the engine grille - during design the grille and the support frame is separated from the rest of the hull and alternate patterns are supplied - one simple the other with detail. It also means that someone constructing the model can easily scratch build if they prefer their own method of adding detail without having to do major surgery to the rest of the model.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  11. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    Looking forward to following this thread.. I like the idea of giving the builder a choice on how detailed he wants the model to be..
  12. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    Looking forward to following this thread.. I like the idea of giving the builder a choice on how detailed he wants the model to be..
  13. Clashster

    Clashster Member

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    Looking forward to this, John! Love the look of your birds, but I'm an armor guy at heart!!

    Chris
  14. Clashster

    Clashster Member

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    Looking forward to this, John! Love the look of your birds, but I'm an armor guy at heart!!

    Chris
  15. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    I'm looking forward to seeing this design develop into a model, John. Probably the first tank I built as a kid was a plastic Revell model of the Patton...there is something about it's look that just caught my eye as well.

    Giving the model options for details is a superb idea!

    I'll be watching this thread with much interest!

    Cheers!
    Jim
  16. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    I'm looking forward to seeing this design develop into a model, John. Probably the first tank I built as a kid was a plastic Revell model of the Patton...there is something about it's look that just caught my eye as well.

    Giving the model options for details is a superb idea!

    I'll be watching this thread with much interest!

    Cheers!
    Jim
  17. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    In answer to Golden Bear's qustion about the software I use;

    I am using Max for most of the 3d geometry work. I have a script to unfold polygons. I don't have the new fancy programs that all seem to have unfolders built in (Rhino, Maya(?)). I do alot of Photoshop work for the surface artwork. It's sort of a convoluted process. I also need a translator for obj -> max and back as sometimes the standard in import/export plugins don't work right- perhaps because I only have Max 4.
    Back when I first thought about doing this with a computer (about 7 or 8 years ago (it took me a long time to figure it out)) none of that ready-to-go stuff seemed to exist, or if it did I didn't know where to find it; so I had to cobble together some way of doing it. I wasn't aware that professional designers were switching to computers- I was under the delusion it was my idea! Oh well, convergent evolution. Except that in my case I decided to figure out a CG method because I couldn't do it the old way, by hand... all my hand-made attempts were utter failures. Come to think of it, my early CG models were pretty lousy too.
  18. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    In answer to Golden Bear's qustion about the software I use;

    I am using Max for most of the 3d geometry work. I have a script to unfold polygons. I don't have the new fancy programs that all seem to have unfolders built in (Rhino, Maya(?)). I do alot of Photoshop work for the surface artwork. It's sort of a convoluted process. I also need a translator for obj -> max and back as sometimes the standard in import/export plugins don't work right- perhaps because I only have Max 4.
    Back when I first thought about doing this with a computer (about 7 or 8 years ago (it took me a long time to figure it out)) none of that ready-to-go stuff seemed to exist, or if it did I didn't know where to find it; so I had to cobble together some way of doing it. I wasn't aware that professional designers were switching to computers- I was under the delusion it was my idea! Oh well, convergent evolution. Except that in my case I decided to figure out a CG method because I couldn't do it the old way, by hand... all my hand-made attempts were utter failures. Come to think of it, my early CG models were pretty lousy too.
  19. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    trax

    I don't know precisely how I will do the tracks quite yet, but I have an idea. I haven't looked at any other kits to see what is customary.

    My idea so far is a perforated (for the sprocket) paper band that goes around the running gear; to which the shoes, guide pins, links etc are glued. The 'perforations' for the sprocket and inter-link gaps will probably be printed solid black so that they give the illusion of a hole- then they will need actual perforation only where they meet the sprocket teeth. The band is joined end-to-end and should allow good sag.
    A band, shoes glued to that (inner/outer surfaces I think), laminated pads glued to the bottom of those, end links glued to the shoe sides, and the guides glued to the inside of the shoes. Yeah. That sounds feasible, but we'll see...

    I suppose that if a good quality band could be made, perhaps plastic, with ALL the sprocket holes put in, the thing could be made to actually drive :)

    I am actually not as worried about the tracks as I am about the swingarms and their bosses. Due the the weird boat-like x-section of the M48 hull, the swingarms don't just sit flush up against the hull sides. They have long extension bosses that are mitered and fitted in between the swingarms and the hull. It's hard to describe... but basically the hull is 'U' shaped from head-on.

    PS Is that Indiana Jones looking guy in your Avatar you?
  20. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

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    trax

    I don't know precisely how I will do the tracks quite yet, but I have an idea. I haven't looked at any other kits to see what is customary.

    My idea so far is a perforated (for the sprocket) paper band that goes around the running gear; to which the shoes, guide pins, links etc are glued. The 'perforations' for the sprocket and inter-link gaps will probably be printed solid black so that they give the illusion of a hole- then they will need actual perforation only where they meet the sprocket teeth. The band is joined end-to-end and should allow good sag.
    A band, shoes glued to that (inner/outer surfaces I think), laminated pads glued to the bottom of those, end links glued to the shoe sides, and the guides glued to the inside of the shoes. Yeah. That sounds feasible, but we'll see...

    I suppose that if a good quality band could be made, perhaps plastic, with ALL the sprocket holes put in, the thing could be made to actually drive :)

    I am actually not as worried about the tracks as I am about the swingarms and their bosses. Due the the weird boat-like x-section of the M48 hull, the swingarms don't just sit flush up against the hull sides. They have long extension bosses that are mitered and fitted in between the swingarms and the hull. It's hard to describe... but basically the hull is 'U' shaped from head-on.

    PS Is that Indiana Jones looking guy in your Avatar you?