Looking for 4x16 layout design

Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by Jonnyspeed, Feb 22, 2007.

  1. Jonnyspeed

    Jonnyspeed New Member

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    OK. Looking for layout design assistance. While I would love to have my own dedicated train room with an around the walls style layout it probably won't happen. One of my Druthers is that I will probably end up with an island style layout that sits in my soon to be built Rec room.

    With that in mind, I would like help designing a 4x16 (could be widened to 6x16) HO island (Tabletop) layout.
    Here are some of the Givens and Druthers:

    -I like detailed scenery and structures.
    -Operations split: 70% railfan 30% operations
    -Era: not too speciffic.. C&O steam trough Chessie System, including some B&O
    -Would like a small passenger depot possibly depicting late passenger trains (ie. smaller)
    -I live near the B&O Lester wye depot in Lester, Ohio. I don't know if that could be included, but I like it.
    -I love boats and water. Waterfront scenes, rivers, etc...
    -I have never modeled it, but I like dense industrial scenes where trains snake between buildings and industries.
    -I like bridges.
    -I like the smaller local train service type operations. (Trains actually servicing customers) Big intermodals not so much.
    -I would like to have a scenic divider down the middle to create 2 seperate scenes
    -One scene should be an industrial "open staging" type. Doesn't have to be a functional yard, but provide storage. The other scene should be more rural for railfanning.
    -I have always wanted an engine servicing facility. (Good reason to have a lot of engines sitting around)
    -I run DCC and I would like to hookup my laptop to automate mailine runthroughs while I manually switch the local or just watch.

    -4-6x16 island style
    -Don't want a pure switching layout
    -I have already purchased a good deal of Atlas Flex and #6 switches.
    -I hate trains that seem to just chase their tails.
    -No spagetti bowls
    -Needs to be simple enough to be completed in a reasonable amount of time (6 months - 1 yr.)
    -Construction is complete on the benchwork. Subroadbed will be foam or Woodland Scenics risers. No plywood risers/subroadbed.
    -Keep the plaster to a minimum. I'd rather work with foam.
    -Don't want to waste space with a functional yard...rather use the open staging concept.

    Let me know if I left anything out. We'll see how the designs go. If I find one that really fits me I'll send you a $50 gift card or something.

    Post designs here and send them to me at jonathan@rrpics.com please.

    Thanks,
    Jonathan
  2. EngineerKyle

    EngineerKyle Member

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    Take a look at the trackplans at www.thortrains.com

    I believe they are under the HO subtopic.
  3. KCS

    KCS Member

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    Well, I don't know about a design on hand because I threw out all mine after I moved and lost a 11x17 foot room. Something to say sense no one else has replied on it yet. 6' would be better because of the 50+ foot locomotives and car's so 22" curves won't fit in 4'. However, being 6x16' there would be plenty of room for a yard on one side and if your including a divider then I would say some type of moutain portal would be a nice way to to get that "long distance" travel kinda feel. Divider would have to be directly down the center of the layout giving 3 feet to either side. Depending on how tall the layout will be 3 feet should give you just enough for a nice layout yet still be able to maintain it. (ie track cleaning, repair etc.) I'll play around and see what I might be able to come up with. Something that I saw you didn't mention. Single or double mainline?
  4. MadHatter

    MadHatter Charging at full tilt.

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    Hi Jonnyspeed, I've been working on a design and will send to your email address shortly.
  5. jetrock

    jetrock Member

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    One thing you might consider is that an island-style layout dominates a room a lot more than an around-the-walls layout: you can set a shelf layout onto furniture instead of mounting it on the wall. This leaves the middle of the room free for other functions, while a 4x12 layout will require an area of at least 8x16 feet in order to be fully accessible.
  6. Squidbait

    Squidbait Recovering ALCO-holic

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    Please don't take this the wrong way, but why did you build your benchwork without a track plan in mind? You wouldn't dig the foundation for your house before you had a blueprint, would you? ;)
  7. Jonnyspeed

    Jonnyspeed New Member

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    I am reusing previously constructed benchwork. If I go with plan "A" then that is all the space I have in my rec room. If I go with plan "B" I will have a 10x16 dedicated room. Obviously I prefer plan "B", but we don't always get what we want now do we. Besides, I am following the advice of Iian Rice and John Armstrong and have defined the space first, now I am looking for a plan. It does no good to draw a plan that won't fit the available space now does it... 6x16 would be the max. space available in plan "A".
  8. Jonnyspeed

    Jonnyspeed New Member

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    I apreciate the idea, but trust me.... I need an island design for this particular scenario. This is plan"A". If I can figure out a way to get a dedicated room it will be 10x16 and I will definitely build around the walls. I've already got an 8x12 frestanding
    "around the walls" style layout that was from a previous location. I could expand that very easy. That is plan "B"

    For the purpose of this thread though I am only interested in an island stlye that will be at the back of the new rec room. The room is going to be built like a log cabin so I don't want to touch the walls with any backdrops or anything. It has to stand alone.
  9. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

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    Space is different from benchwork.

    Anyway, since you've realized that around-the-walls allows more space and you've consciously decided to go with the island, I accept your decision. I only regret when people make islands because that's all they know.