LED pole lights

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by Fred_M, Feb 13, 2004.

  1. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I need more working outside lights on my layout. It's dark in my layout dungeon and I kind of like it that way. Well the factory ones are expensive (3 for $7) and they burn out a lot. And when they burn out we toss them. So I bought some white 3mm LEDs, some Campbell's light shades, and some K&S copper tube. I picked the copper over the brass as I think it's easier to solder. I also needed some wire that would fit in the tube. The old wire from a burn out factory pole light fit fine.

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  2. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    So then I wallowed out the hole a little in the shade to make it slightly bigger and installed a piece of insulation on the pos. (long) lead of the LED. I bent the neg as shown.

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  3. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I then pushed the pos into the hole and soldered the neg to the bottom of the shade. I made sure the insulation was in place and not touching the shade.

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  4. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I then cut the neg off and soldered it to the outside of the shade.

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  5. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I then slid the wire up the pole and stripped and tinned 1/2 inch of it. I then soldered the neg to the copper pole and the pos to the wire right where the insulation stops. I then trimmed the extra off.

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  6. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    So I then drilled and soldered a small copper pad 20 foot down the pole. I then painted the pole with gray dollar primer and painted the shade green. Any suggestions or commments before I do another? FRED

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  7. csxnscale

    csxnscale Member

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    You want comments ?
    They look great, I could use a dozen of them.

    Paul
  8. b28_82

    b28_82 Member

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    i would have to say that would be one of the best ideas ever
    is that more for an HO layout though?
  9. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

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    Thanks for the "how to" Dash
  10. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    Yes, I do HO. I also use what's sold as n scale lights for HO. They are really too big really for n scale with 30" diameter poles and 22" light bulbs:) so these could be used on a nscale layout, no? Just build them shorter. And it's my pleasure Robin and Paul. FRED:)
  11. b28_82

    b28_82 Member

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    thanks, i think i might still make some for the club layout though.
  12. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

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    Yeah...are you set up for bulk orders?:D :p Cool beans:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
  13. jmarksbery

    jmarksbery Active Member

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    Yeah Dash, I could use quite a few of those myself.
    :eek: :eek: :eek:
  14. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I'm thinking $5 per if I sell any. Anyone interested can pm me for specs and questions. FRED
  15. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

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    :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: Fantastic, dash! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

    On copper vs. brass - The brass should be equally easy to solder. Copper is a better conductor of heat. My memory sez copper is the greatest conductor of heat (excluding preciouse metals) and is 4 X greater than the 2nd best, aluminium. In most cases, this won't have much effect on soldering, but it can make soldering more difficult when you are solding a large piece with a smaller iron, as it conducts the heat away from the joint. Also, if you are making multiply solder joints on one part, you may have less trouble with brass, as it conducts less heat towards a previously soldered joint. In the end, once it's painted, there's no difference :D
  16. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    Actually you will find that K&S brass tubing has an anti-oxidant coating on it that must be removed to get a good solder joint that their copper tubing doesn't have. The copper tubing is also easier to cut with a snap blade knife. You just roll the tube under the blade on a table. FRED
  17. Drew Toner

    Drew Toner Member

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    Hmmm, guess thats why brass models are the norm. You would probably have to be 'short a floor' to build copper models
    :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :mad: :mad: :mad:

    :wave:
    Drew
  18. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    Brass is used for models like locos and rolling stock because it's harder and stiffer than copper. It was also used historically by the Japannese (and others) to make brass models for export because there was lots of surplus brass from WWII in the form of empty shells cases. I have seen models made from copper and they are quite well done. There is a big enough market for copper that K&S supplies it in their POS display in tubes and sheets along with brass and Al. I don't understand you comment about using copper Drew? FRED
  19. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    version 2

    Here's the new version that I applied what I learned from the first proto to build. Bring light to your layout. Extend your LPBs working day with lights. It's a proven fact that theives love outside lights, it makes stealing things so much easier. Quote for Jim X, a career felon, "your lights allow me to steal the good stuff so much easier. In the old days only one out of three things I pinched were worth fencing, but with your lights almost every item I now steal can be sold for cash. It also makes stealing of gas so much easier and safer, no more using a lighter to find the gas cap hole. Thank's Dash10 lighting". There you have it! Outdoor lights lower crime because they allow the theif to be more selective in what they steal. FRED

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  20. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

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    Good looking scene Fred. The interior lighting of the building looks good too.