Learning about glue

Discussion in 'Tools of the Trade' started by hapes, Oct 20, 2006.

  1. dhanners

    dhanners Member

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    I use Lineco pH-neutral PVA glue that I get at an art supply store. Other companies make PVA glue, though. Basically, it is a purer form of Elmer's. It is a little bit thinner, but not messily so.

    For application in small areas, I use a toothpick. Just by a big box and keep it on your work table. When the tips get gunked up, just put the toothpick aside and get a new one. After the glue has dried on the first toothpick, just cut a new tip.

    For larger areas, I use a run-of-the-mill Testor's paint brush.

    When it comes to weighting things down or clamping while the glue dries, every seam requires a different approach, it seems. (A pun there....) For a straight butt joint, what I generally do is glue the joint, cover each side with a bit of wax paper, then lay small strips of wood on the wax paper and clamp it with clothespins.

    For joints were I want to apply weight, I generally weigh it down with prescription pill bottles filled with pennies. I always seemed to have a bunch of pennies and pill bottles laying around, so it seemed a good use. The cap of the pill bottle is flat, so they stay in place. Plus, you can vary their weight by varying the number of pennies you put in them.

    When I do weigh things down, though, I usually don't put the weight directly on the paper. I generally cover the paper with a small piece of wood strip, then put the weight on it. The wood strip distributes the weight.
  2. dhanners

    dhanners Member

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    I use Lineco pH-neutral PVA glue that I get at an art supply store. Other companies make PVA glue, though. Basically, it is a purer form of Elmer's. It is a little bit thinner, but not messily so.

    For application in small areas, I use a toothpick. Just by a big box and keep it on your work table. When the tips get gunked up, just put the toothpick aside and get a new one. After the glue has dried on the first toothpick, just cut a new tip.

    For larger areas, I use a run-of-the-mill Testor's paint brush.

    When it comes to weighting things down or clamping while the glue dries, every seam requires a different approach, it seems. (A pun there....) For a straight butt joint, what I generally do is glue the joint, cover each side with a bit of wax paper, then lay small strips of wood on the wax paper and clamp it with clothespins.

    For joints were I want to apply weight, I generally weigh it down with prescription pill bottles filled with pennies. I always seemed to have a bunch of pennies and pill bottles laying around, so it seemed a good use. The cap of the pill bottle is flat, so they stay in place. Plus, you can vary their weight by varying the number of pennies you put in them.

    When I do weigh things down, though, I usually don't put the weight directly on the paper. I generally cover the paper with a small piece of wood strip, then put the weight on it. The wood strip distributes the weight.
  3. shrike

    shrike Guest

    Put me solidly in the Elmers and flat toothpicks camp

    Here the humidity is often in the single digit percents and Elmers dries quite quickly. Too quickly in some cases. I haven't tried Aleens for that reason.

    Glue goes on to a plastic coffee can lid, and they last forever. The dried glue just peels off if it gets too nasty.

    A box of cheap toothpicks last for quite a few models. I go through quite a few, because at $0.29 for 750 I can't see worrying about a glue blob. I also like that I can trim tehm to a really fine point, it thin sliver to get glue into tight or awkward spots.
  4. shrike

    shrike Guest

    Put me solidly in the Elmers and flat toothpicks camp

    Here the humidity is often in the single digit percents and Elmers dries quite quickly. Too quickly in some cases. I haven't tried Aleens for that reason.

    Glue goes on to a plastic coffee can lid, and they last forever. The dried glue just peels off if it gets too nasty.

    A box of cheap toothpicks last for quite a few models. I go through quite a few, because at $0.29 for 750 I can't see worrying about a glue blob. I also like that I can trim tehm to a really fine point, it thin sliver to get glue into tight or awkward spots.
  5. Larry Marshall

    Larry Marshall Member

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    There seems to be some confusion about some of these glues. PVA is not Elmers and vice-versa. Elmers glue is a casein (milk protein) glue, not a poly-vinyl-acetate glue. They may work similarly (depending upon the solids/solvent ratios but they are very different in composition. There's a reason that "Elmer" is a cow :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  6. Larry Marshall

    Larry Marshall Member

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    There seems to be some confusion about some of these glues. PVA is not Elmers and vice-versa. Elmers glue is a casein (milk protein) glue, not a poly-vinyl-acetate glue. They may work similarly (depending upon the solids/solvent ratios but they are very different in composition. There's a reason that "Elmer" is a cow :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  7. Larry Marshall

    Larry Marshall Member

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    This is a very important parameter in selecting a glue from these water-based glues. I live on the St Lawrence Seaway and our humidities are always high. Thus, the quick-dry glues are better suited for me here.

    Cheers --- Larry
  8. Larry Marshall

    Larry Marshall Member

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    This is a very important parameter in selecting a glue from these water-based glues. I live on the St Lawrence Seaway and our humidities are always high. Thus, the quick-dry glues are better suited for me here.

    Cheers --- Larry
  9. Ken Horne

    Ken Horne Member

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    I've just tried 3M Scotch® Quick Dry Tacky Adhesive and like it.

    It is thinner than Aleen's and thicker than Elmer's Glue All, but I must admit that the nozzel on the bottle is the real selling point. I found it at Michaels in the scrapbooking section, not in the glue section...

    http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=sb0344

    Cheers,

    Kenny
  10. Ken Horne

    Ken Horne Member

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    I've just tried 3M Scotch® Quick Dry Tacky Adhesive and like it.

    It is thinner than Aleen's and thicker than Elmer's Glue All, but I must admit that the nozzel on the bottle is the real selling point. I found it at Michaels in the scrapbooking section, not in the glue section...

    http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=sb0344

    Cheers,

    Kenny
  11. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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  12. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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  13. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Since I mostly model for playing and not for displaying:grin:

    I started using Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue in the silver bottle.

    This stuff works for me as I need to have it stuck good and fast (yeah HS English teacher rolling in grave)

    It helps with the speed building I have to do to test my re-colored versions. But it's not for the faint-hearted because you have to get it right the first time or tear the paper getting it apart.:roll:

    john
  14. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Since I mostly model for playing and not for displaying:grin:

    I started using Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue in the silver bottle.

    This stuff works for me as I need to have it stuck good and fast (yeah HS English teacher rolling in grave)

    It helps with the speed building I have to do to test my re-colored versions. But it's not for the faint-hearted because you have to get it right the first time or tear the paper getting it apart.:roll:

    john
  15. OylPslyk

    OylPslyk Aspiring Usurper

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    it seems this topic has been thouroughly covered but here's my 2 cents anyway, i have my own version of the toothpick method- i always use a compass point to apply my glue (elmers glue-all, and washable for prototypes)
    its always precise, and always reuseable!
  16. OylPslyk

    OylPslyk Aspiring Usurper

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    it seems this topic has been thouroughly covered but here's my 2 cents anyway, i have my own version of the toothpick method- i always use a compass point to apply my glue (elmers glue-all, and washable for prototypes)
    its always precise, and always reuseable!
  17. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

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    Elmer is a bull not a cow.
    Also there are no milk products or byproducts in Elmer's glue.

    Copied the following from here; http://www.elmers.com/faq/index.asp

    "I have a milk allergy, are your products safe for me to use?
    Our products are derived from synthetic materials, not any type of animal or milk protein."

    Russell
  18. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

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    Elmer is a bull not a cow.
    Also there are no milk products or byproducts in Elmer's glue.

    Copied the following from here; http://www.elmers.com/faq/index.asp

    "I have a milk allergy, are your products safe for me to use?
    Our products are derived from synthetic materials, not any type of animal or milk protein."

    Russell
  19. Larry Marshall

    Larry Marshall Member

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    My bad...thanks for the correction, Gil. I assume that here you're talking about Elmers Glue-All. Always something to learn.

    Cheers --- Larry
  20. Larry Marshall

    Larry Marshall Member

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    My bad...thanks for the correction, Gil. I assume that here you're talking about Elmers Glue-All. Always something to learn.

    Cheers --- Larry