What does everyone use to support your layouts? I just built a combination of shelves and legs for my last layout, but this one is going to be modular, so I'm looking for some different ideas. Thanks in advance!
Layout Support
- Thread starter SD90
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I used what I think is called "L girder". 2x2's cross braced with 1x3's. Then 1x4's attached to 1x2's in an "L" shape to support the table top which was 3/4" plywood.
I think it is a fairly standard design, I got it out of a book. It was very light weight (until I put the plywood on it) and strong. I built mine in 4x4 sections and then attached them together.
I think it is a fairly standard design, I got it out of a book. It was very light weight (until I put the plywood on it) and strong. I built mine in 4x4 sections and then attached them together.
If transportability is going to be a factor, I would suggest building a 1X4 framework such that you can put 2" insulation foam in the frame, recessed to the top surface of the bench. this will require some intermediate support for the foam if the module is very long. Much lighter than the 3/4 plywood. Of course you will be restricted to gluing down your roadbed and track, since nails won't hold in the foam. I you're just going to move the modules around in the house, and have help, the weight isn't such a factor.
SD90 said:What does everyone use to support your layouts? I just built a combination of shelves and legs for my last layout, but this one is going to be modular, so I'm looking for some different ideas. Thanks in advance!
Hi Mike,
I have Been following your posts over the past year or two and I am impressed with your work.
Re. the legs on your new layout...Well I am with the Edmonton N Scalers and I made our module supports from 1' conduit. I managed to aquire some 4"x4" cut off blocks from a company that makes stair railings.
I used my drill press to make sure the holes were straight for the conduit to slide into.
The Blocks are glued and screwed into the 4 corners of each module.
It is so easy to remove the legs and store them in a box for transportation.
We will be taking our layout to the February show in Calgary so drop over and say Hi.
I am presently working on my own layout and will post a few photos of my progress soon.
Dennis
Our club use's steel leg's on our layout. Each module has 4 (i'm guessing) 3"? long cut piece's of "C" channel steel. A large nut is welded sideway's to the channel and the channel has two holes drilled for bolt's to be attached to the module corner. The nut is welded at the lowest end so that module's can be setup fairly close to level when they come off the rack's. They are screwed in until the top of the leg is touching the top of the nut. Then a piece of special cut broom stick is used to level them at all four corner's while keeping a level on the frame and track. Thing is we have two modules that have real running water fall's but one is required to be perfectly level and then the rest of the layout is set up around it. It's been working for us for years. Just take's more than one man for this type of setup.
Now seeing this in the N scale forum. That idea would be to heavy duty for such a layout as our's is HO. Ol' dummy me.
Mine's still a work-in-progress but I used a smooth door for the layout base and have it resting on a portable but sturdy table...the type you can find as some of the buying clubs. It has a particle board top, laminated surface, and a metal frame all around with swing out legs that can adjust to various heights. That way, I can have it placed to about 48" or so for me and drop it to 14" for the kids if I want. I'm working on a way to attach the layout to the table - maybe using industrial velcro to allow the two surfaces to separate if needed. Also, I need to attach the power pack to the table, which I'll probably mount beneath the table surface in a custom-created drawer - much like a computer keyboard drawer. You can get drawer glides at any home store and build a drawer to fit your needs.
Sorry, that was long winded...the short version is the collaspable table gives me portability and various working heights. The only thing I make sure of is that the table surface is level when on the carpet.
Sorry, that was long winded...the short version is the collaspable table gives me portability and various working heights. The only thing I make sure of is that the table surface is level when on the carpet.
I use 2x2s for legs, I think a lot of people use 2" PVC pipe. Others use the fold up legs you find on folding tables.
The only thing I suggest is don't over do it. These things are generally pretty light and it doesn't take much to build a sturdy support.
The only thing I suggest is don't over do it. These things are generally pretty light and it doesn't take much to build a sturdy support.
Just wanted to add, that for levelling I epoxied adjustable screw in type levellers into the conduit pipe at one end.
They are made in a square casing but the epoxy holds them inside the conduit very well and there is no problem adjusting the foot part up or down.
Just had to be careful not to get any 5 minute epoxy on the threads of the levelling foot.
Dennis
They are made in a square casing but the epoxy holds them inside the conduit very well and there is no problem adjusting the foot part up or down.
Just had to be careful not to get any 5 minute epoxy on the threads of the levelling foot.
Dennis