L-29 Delphin "Tigermeet" by Modelart

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by cmdrted, Nov 5, 2006.

  1. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Sorry, me again ;) what weight paper are yo using on the wings? I am using 110 lb on mine and it seems a bit hard to work with. might reprint on something a bit lighter. Yours seemed to shape quite well. Let em know when you can tear yourself away from building :)
    Chris
  2. barry

    barry Active Member

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    upside down wing

    Glad somebody else does sillies. I just spent the whole afternoon painting a wing upside down

    Glad you fixed yours
  3. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Well. it happens to the best of us. The slight problem is the printer. I printed this at least a year ago on a differant printer. Now I'm running with a cannon pixia or something. The colors are not quite right, one yellow to another. Moment of indecision, go on with mismatched color or start over with a whole new batch of card??? Man I hate mistakes like this!
  4. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Oh Chris ps, Goldenbear is right on the card weight. @60-67 lbs, the wausau bright is one of the best, although I went to a print shop 2 years ago and bought out a big box of 11x17 and they cut it to 8.5 x 14. It was @ 60lb smooth on both sides but not shiny, folds and rolls ok with little delamination. You do get some delam if you roll it dry to fit it then try to glue it after. I'm 'xperimenting with matt photopapers from wally world. It is @6mils which roughly handles like it would be @ 45-50lb. card. i tried the brochure paper from royal brite and was not at all happy.
  5. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Wow that was a close one!

    Somehow someway the Gods have smiled their good fortune for a once and brief time. I tried using the original card stock as a starting point to "Re-Do" the upside down wing. The color was too orangey yellow. I tried juggling the settings on the printer and it didn't quite match up. Then I switched the type of card stock to matt photo by printworks (found at Wally World) and with no changes in settings it worked out closer than I could tell. The original color is in the centre, left is best outta 3 and right is the new wing stub being built. I tripley made sure that I was building the right wing upwards this time and started to assemble the wing root. It has to be right this time, as so far all the parts fit perfectly as designed. I was very amazed and impressed that when I joined up the trailing edge it fit perfectly with nothing really to trim! Just as a 4th test I set the new wing root into the fuselage slot and it all lines up right. Dodged a major one today! Think I'll quit while I'm ahead tonight and have a cold one!!!!

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  6. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Continuing on with the build. This time I got the wings right side up and they went together perfectly. Dr Z warns to keep an eye on warping when constructing the wings but if you are careful about lightly creaseing the leading edge and then tightly rolling it against a sharp table edge the trailing edges sorta line up perfectly. the only trim I did was to sandpaper away any glue that seeped out the trailing edge. This was one heck-ov-a wewll designed kit. The "gap" between inner and outer panels was neglible but there is a seam filler piece that covers it anyway. as this piece dries now I can work on the other wing now that the only wing pieces left are excluseivly for that side! Lessons learned!

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  7. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Wing tips. These view show the separate wing tips, 2 semicircles glued top and bottom. the connecting strips are supplied in the kit on a separate sheet, so you can print them on any thickness paper you are comfortable working with. For the smaller tightly curved pieces I use @20-24lb type paper to make the strips. For the larger less curved fuselage and wing parts I use either straight 66lb card or slighly thinner photopaper. The final pics are the completed right wing. (Not a political statement!)

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  8. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Wings the way they were designed!

    Finally finished the wings, in the correct orientation. They actually go together quite well. The wing fillets finished off the assembly and covered a very minimal gap. Now on to the tail stabs etc....

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  9. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Awesome! Nice job man that is one nice looking plane :D
    Chris
  10. GT5500

    GT5500 Member

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    This bird is looking so beautifull :-D
  11. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Thanks guys, A few speed bumps along the way, but it is coming along! My surgical preceptor once told me a true little anecdote; Learning the procedures is easy, everyone (surgeons) knows how to take out an appendix, where you shine is when you know what to do when things go wrong! Anyways I took a small break from the structural things and started adding little details to the fuselage. Up front are a few airscoops and some "bumps", probably some type of antannae housings. Those little ^%$#%^# were about the size of a sesame seed! Thanks Dr. Zarkov! The scoops were of a compound double curve also. In the rear were some type of louvre that was a flattened sesame seed, (see green arrow!) And this was supposed to be a "break" from the structural tediousness.!

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  12. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    More tedious parts
    Started the landing gear. There are alot of little parts, and very sorry to say few drawings specific to some of the parts. But if you have a little experience with landing gear and card model construction you can figure it out. The front gear consists of the main leg with support wire inside. I thought it was supposed to go thru the horseshoe shaped piece but it actually goes under it. you have to drill atiny hole in the tire for this wire, but into the edge/tire part. The horseshoe part then gets glued under, then the support pieces after. There is a landing light that I filled alittle w white glue, let it dry then painted silver inside. I then dragged a toothpick loaded with glue and made a kinda lens. It look a lot better than the pic. The rear gear was built from the many small parts, I left the 2 lower gear doors off until I attach them to the aircraft.

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  13. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Little progress, finished the stabilizer tonight. There is a fwd piece that seems to be some type of radome or big antannea. This acts as a kind of filet for the stabilizer when mounted on the rudder. I think the idea was to put on the stabilizer then attach this thing to the front. I glued it to the top and front and will mount the unit as a whole. I'll see how this goes in the am....

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  14. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Almost there!

    As my real job gets more busy, less time is available for more "reasonable and pleasureable " pursuits. However, I've been able to build some more of the fiddley bits and finally attach the tail. The tail section was built a few days ago but I've only been able to attach it last night. It went on faily well the little bullet shaped fairing piece was a pain to get attached to the stab unit and then fillet itself to the rudder sides. Long nose tweezers were needed to line it up. I applied glue with a small detail paint brush and eased the free fillet ends onto the rudder sides. More later...

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  15. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Thats looking mighty nice! Can we get and overall shot to see how she looks so far?
    Thanks
    Chris
  16. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Chris, here she is with a few added on components; the drop tanks, which were very well engineered, they are both like very small fuselages complete with formers and connecting strips! There are a few other small not too apparent details added since last, some more "bumps, tubes and things".

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  17. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Thanks for showing it! That looks really sharp.
    Chris
  18. Alcides

    Alcides Member

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    The models looks great. I think you can display it is going to impress your friends.

    I like a lot the camo.
  19. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Thanks guys, for all the encouragement and just having a place where we all can "show-off" our work to fellow card modelers. As a treat, and for some old business I'll recap an old thread for building and forming canopies. I don't much use the preformed glass that some companies sell, they are alright but they assume that the kit went together 100% true, in alignment, just right so all you have to do is drop the glass on and be happy. Most of the time they do alright, but I fudged up some good kits and had to hack and paste to get the little 2.00 to 4.00 US vacuformed canopy to fit. The results were less than cool. I googled vacuform machines and came up with a wealth of sites and suggestions, and instead of bidding on a 40 year old machine that was limited in size I decided to build my own. They are quite simple, in my case "a box". I made my first one while building WW2 fighters, not so big canopies so the working area wasn't big enough when it came to modern 2 seat jets. So I simply built the same thing, only bigger. The first "prototype" is shown below. A box with 1/8" masonite cover drilled @ evrey 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I placed a rubber seal around the lip but in the bigger model I didn't and it doesn't make any differance. The hole in the side was done with a 1 1/4" hole driller chucked in a drill. Make it big enough for your wifes accessary hose to fit in snug.

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  20. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    That was your wifes' vacuum cleaner accessary hose, not panty! The next thing you need is something to hold the plastic to be vacu-formed. There are a host of suggestions, but the quickest and cheapest and easiest one for me was to use 2 clipboards. You need 2 because you actually need the huge "bulldog clamps" taht are at the tops. I "creatively aquired with an option to own" 2 old ones from our unit. I cut the one to overlap the top of "the machine". the other I drilled out the 2 poprivets then used it to have an opposing clamp for the little bracket piece that holds the plastic. Make the opening the same size as the working area of the top of your machine. Then measure off @ 1/2 inch and there is where you want to install/screw down the 2nd clamp. Then you need a frame sized piece cut from the clipboard. This is used to sandwhich the plastic and firmly have it clamped in when you heat it.

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