No instructions so far.
Mark,
I have had no luck so far. the first place I looked was a plastic storage tray that was used for a project box when I built my 3 footer, and when I re-built Dr Tom's #1 a PFM Harrington shay that had multiple drive train issues. That box has turned into a steam locomotive detail parts box, and the instructions are no longer there. I also checked a ringed notebook that has a lot of OTC (old train ****) it it, no luck there, although a copy of a drawing of a 2 cylinder T-boiler shay was in there. I used that drawing as a reference ( I was thinking of altering the boiler to make a T boiler shay for my 3 footer, but the boiler I built wasn't near as heavy as the stock boiler, so I went with the stock boiler for more pulling power, as my narrow gauge is steep.
I have a couple more stashes of paper, but I'm not clear as to where they are, and the drawing being in the notebook, and the instructions not being there makes me think that the drawings were retained, and the instructions were not.
When you start construction, post a note here, as I made a couple changes that have made the locomotive a little more robust. The main one having to do with the ball socket joints that attach the trucks to the frame. Glue won't touch the engineering plastic truck frames so you are supposed to heat weld the ball of the ball socket joint to the truck frame. That dindn't work well for me, and several of them broke on servicing.. NWSL got me new parts, but installing them involved completely disassembling the truck, and the trucks are a pain to set up. I eventually used KD insulating nylon screws. I tapped a hole in the top of the truck frame, chucked a KD insulated screw into a drill, and turned the screw head to approximate the shape of the ball part of the ball socket. that produced a much more robust joint, and the truck can be popped off the frame without any concern of the ball comming off the truck frame instead of out of the socket.
I built mine as I wanted a 3 foot gauge shay, and wasn't prepared to pay for brass . I eventually got a good deal on a Brass shay that didn't run, and i was able to fix it easily. as a surprising bonus my Keystone/NWSL Says doubleheads very well with my PFM 25 ton shay. I replaced the stack, headlamp and domes on the Keystone shay with brass casting to get a different look.
In the 3 foot model, a Kd coupler box would not fit between the end beam and the truck frame, and I had to cheat. I'm not sure about the standard gauge model, in may be necessary to cheat, or to use dummy couplers. this is a tiny locomotive in standard gauge. I'd be temped to build one in standard gauge, but I got plenty of locomotives, and would be much better off building other things or cleaning my track. Check out my threads in the logging and mining section to see how bad off I have the disease.
Bill Nelson