JSC Indianapolis in 1:400

[emayday]

Today’s assignment, should I wish to accept (and I did), was to finish the aft hull section and mate the two halves together.

My method of choice for all gluing to this point, as shown, is to put a dab of tacky-glue on a piece of waxed paper and apply with a toothpic. The waxed paper does not absorb the glue, so it may last just a tad longer, but it still sets up pretty quick.

Aft hull section goes together just like the fwd. Third pic is completed rear hull section.



Click images to enlarge

 

[emayday]

Today’s assignment, should I wish to accept (and I did), was to finish the aft hull section and mate the two halves together.

My method of choice for all gluing to this point, as shown, is to put a dab of tacky-glue on a piece of waxed paper and apply with a toothpic. The waxed paper does not absorb the glue, so it may last just a tad longer, but it still sets up pretty quick.

Aft hull section goes together just like the fwd. Third pic is completed rear hull section.



Click images to enlarge

 

[emayday]

And now the two sections are mated and set on a piece of basswood, but not yet attached. Hopefully, tomorrow, I will add the side and deck plating and attach it to the base.

A note on the paper……..a couple weeks ago I stumbled into our local Wal-Mart and came across a ream of Georgia-Pacific 110 lb white card stock. It feels lighter than the kit paper but seems to be stronger and not as glue-absorbant. So I’m giving it a try. We shall see……maybe it’s a bad move, but so far, so good. No warpage.



Click image to enlarge

 

[emayday]

And now the two sections are mated and set on a piece of basswood, but not yet attached. Hopefully, tomorrow, I will add the side and deck plating and attach it to the base.

A note on the paper……..a couple weeks ago I stumbled into our local Wal-Mart and came across a ream of Georgia-Pacific 110 lb white card stock. It feels lighter than the kit paper but seems to be stronger and not as glue-absorbant. So I’m giving it a try. We shall see……maybe it’s a bad move, but so far, so good. No warpage.



Click image to enlarge

 

[barry]

looks very good indeed, like the trick with the magnets

barry

 

[barry]

looks very good indeed, like the trick with the magnets

barry

 

[bholderman]

I then placed the upside down hull section in the magnetic gluing jig (from Micro-Mark tools) and commenced to glue in the formers using Aleene’s Tacky Glue. This glue seems to work for me and was applied with toothpics. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it….if things start warping down the road, I may change my attitude regarding glue….jury’s still out. I go thru a lot of toothpics, but they’re cheep. The magnets kept the lines perpendicular where needed and holds the hull in place for drying. The mini clothespins were used as clamps to hold the bow together and that seemed to work well also. I love the magnetic jig…….great for card modeling!

Ed,

Looks great. One question, the magnetic jig is something new to me. Can you or anyone give a quick summary of how it works?

Cheers,
Brad

 

[bholderman]

I then placed the upside down hull section in the magnetic gluing jig (from Micro-Mark tools) and commenced to glue in the formers using Aleene’s Tacky Glue. This glue seems to work for me and was applied with toothpics. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it….if things start warping down the road, I may change my attitude regarding glue….jury’s still out. I go thru a lot of toothpics, but they’re cheep. The magnets kept the lines perpendicular where needed and holds the hull in place for drying. The mini clothespins were used as clamps to hold the bow together and that seemed to work well also. I love the magnetic jig…….great for card modeling!

Ed,

Looks great. One question, the magnetic jig is something new to me. Can you or anyone give a quick summary of how it works?

Cheers,
Brad

 

[emayday]

Hi Brad,

This is something I used im my days of plastic modeling, and have found it even more useful in paper. I will quote directly from the Micro-Mark catalog.......

"Use for dollhouse furniture, miniature picture frames, , model railroad structures and rolling stock, ship model deck houses, and more. 10-1/4" x 10 1/4", 21 gauge steel plate with 7/8" flanges bent up at 90 degrees. Includes 8 magnetic holding plates that keep components together squarely while glue dries". Retail plice 31.50, currently on sale for $25.90.

Defimitely, in my tool collection a "must have", as one of my downfalls is keeping things square.

Ed

 

[emayday]

Hi Brad,

This is something I used im my days of plastic modeling, and have found it even more useful in paper. I will quote directly from the Micro-Mark catalog.......

"Use for dollhouse furniture, miniature picture frames, , model railroad structures and rolling stock, ship model deck houses, and more. 10-1/4" x 10 1/4", 21 gauge steel plate with 7/8" flanges bent up at 90 degrees. Includes 8 magnetic holding plates that keep components together squarely while glue dries". Retail plice 31.50, currently on sale for $25.90.

Defimitely, in my tool collection a "must have", as one of my downfalls is keeping things square.

Ed

 

[bholderman]

Ed,

Thanks. It will be on my Christmas list.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[bholderman]

Ed,

Thanks. It will be on my Christmas list.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[emayday]

Hull plating on…….tried stick glue on fwd starboard quarter but didn’t care for it at went back to tacky glue for the remainder of this segment. Then set the hull on wood base and marked a line around hull where it meets the base. Removed hull and applied thin coat of tacky glue with stiff bristle brush over this line and replaced the hull. Now there is little chance of banana warping the hull when I glue on the decks. When the time comes, I hope a thin razor will free the model from it’s base………
and oh yea, prior to applying the side plates I colored in the portholes all black with a drawing pen. In all my reference photos they all appear black.

Maybe I’m goin into to much detail in this thread. But when I screw something up, which is inevitable, we’ll all know why.

Please understand that I am not trying to teach….only trying things that are working for me right here, right now….and having the most fun I’ve had in years.

[img=http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/580/dscf01937fn.th.jpg]

Click to enlarge

 

[emayday]

Hull plating on…….tried stick glue on fwd starboard quarter but didn’t care for it at went back to tacky glue for the remainder of this segment. Then set the hull on wood base and marked a line around hull where it meets the base. Removed hull and applied thin coat of tacky glue with stiff bristle brush over this line and replaced the hull. Now there is little chance of banana warping the hull when I glue on the decks. When the time comes, I hope a thin razor will free the model from it’s base………
and oh yea, prior to applying the side plates I colored in the portholes all black with a drawing pen. In all my reference photos they all appear black.

Maybe I’m goin into to much detail in this thread. But when I screw something up, which is inevitable, we’ll all know why.

Please understand that I am not trying to teach….only trying things that are working for me right here, right now….and having the most fun I’ve had in years.

[img=http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/580/dscf01937fn.th.jpg]

Click to enlarge

 

[emayday]

Decks on. Will let everything set up overnight. Now the REAL fun begins.

Don't forget the Indy special on again at noon tomorrow (Sunday). Discovery Channel.



click to enlarge

 

[emayday]

Decks on. Will let everything set up overnight. Now the REAL fun begins.

Don't forget the Indy special on again at noon tomorrow (Sunday). Discovery Channel.



click to enlarge

 

[bholderman]

Ed,

Looks real good. Don't worry about getting to in depth, it always presents an opportunity for feedback, alternative ideas or solutions.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[bholderman]

Ed,

Looks real good. Don't worry about getting to in depth, it always presents an opportunity for feedback, alternative ideas or solutions.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[Jim Krauzlis]

Hi, Ed!

I must say, she's looking very good, nice, clean and neat work!

Brad's right, don't worry, tell us what you want about your build, every comment you make helps all of us become a visitor to your work area and highlights things we might not notice the first time around. It's your build thread and I for one find this build very interesting and enjoyable.

Looking forward, as always, to the next update!

Cheers!

Jim

 

[Jim Krauzlis]

Hi, Ed!

I must say, she's looking very good, nice, clean and neat work!

Brad's right, don't worry, tell us what you want about your build, every comment you make helps all of us become a visitor to your work area and highlights things we might not notice the first time around. It's your build thread and I for one find this build very interesting and enjoyable.

Looking forward, as always, to the next update!

Cheers!

Jim