jrts armour comp. cat.3: sIG-33 Cannon

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by fuchsjos, Jul 11, 2005.

  1. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 01

    When I start a new model project, I look at some original pictures to become a feeling for the thing and take a closer look for potential corrections and detailings. Sometimes my detailing wishes brings me to troubles, because I make new drawings and at last I must see, that it is nearly impossible to do this corrections in paper. If you look at the analogy of the sended pictures (showing the solution of the publisher, the real thing and my corrections), you will know what I'm meaning.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 02

    For this reason I try to do somthing new and start the project "paper to metall". I took the paper model "sIG-33" from a polish distributor (Answer) and useed it as a base for a new construction in 3D on the PC. After constructing all necessary parts to sheet metall parts, I made films of all parts and began to make photo etching, using the photo etching process like a sort of chemical jig saw. Fortunately all necessery tools to do this, were at hand, because they are the same tools doing another hobby of me, making of printed circuit boards for electronics (my third hobby is computing - how advantageous).

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 03

    At first there was much work with constructing, drawing and designing.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 04

    The model was published in 1:25, I don't change this to make it easier in drawing and construction work without calculating all measurements. The final modell will be 168.40 mm in length, 74.80 mm in breadth and 71.00 mm in hight.
    The spacing of the lines in my cutting board is 50 mm (2"), ... to tell how large/tiny the parts are in some photos.

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  2. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 05

    Some parts were a combination of paper (rounded) parts and metall parts. For doing a good connection, first glue them together with MICRO KRISTAL KLEAR from Microscale. After this, I use Cyancylat glue (very thin - Greven) and applicate it to the paper parts, they will become a structur like plastic and a very good connection whith the metall parts. After drying, I grind the paper parts whith fine grinding paper to become a good surface for painting.
    Metall parts were joining together via soft-soldering or gluing (Cyancylat).

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  3. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 06

    All rivets were real ones, made of brass (www.hassler-profile.li) basically whith a shaft of 0,5 mm and a head of 0,8 mm. After shortening the shaft to a lenght af 0,3 mm (thickness of brass sheet) I glue them with Gunze Mr. Metal-Primer into the etched holes.
    Most axles were made of small brass tubes, beech wood or steel wire.

    *Tip: To become a very straight piece of wire, fasten one end in a vise and pull the other end with a pliers and regulated force. The wire would be a little bit longer (plus 1-2 cm) but also very straight. Lenghten it whith a little cutting-off wheel (Proxxon, Dremel ...) and you get a perfect axle. Using some special flux, it is also possible to soft solder it with brass or something else (www.fohrmann.com).

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  4. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 07

    *Tip: For doing etching parts for yourself look at www.saemann-aetztechnik.de, where you can find all technics, tools and basic materials (only in german).

    *Tip: There are many ways to make a little roll of paper, needing by many paper models. My way is the following. The hardest step to do a little roll is the start to do this. I use a little stripe of wrapping tissue and glue it to the beginning of the paper roll (outside). This wrapping tissue (silkpaper), which is often in use for wrapping flowers is very thin and strong. There is no problem to roll it around a little piece of wire (straight - look above) and when you come to the changeover to the paper part, wet the paper part a little bit whith water to come over the step. After glueing, rolling, gluing, rolling ... you become a perfect roll of paper. After drying you could leave the wire in the paper roll to strenghten it or you can also remove it, by turn it careful against the roll direction, until the bonding surface was loosen connect.

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  5. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 08

    Each of the two handwheels of the hight adjustment were made of 4 brass parts (two inner parts with the spokes, two outer rings) which were soft welded together. After this I put them in a mini drill and grind, polish with low rotation to a soft outline. The handstick was a little piece of steel wire, which was also soft welded.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 09

    Mounting of the main cylinders of the hight adjustment was a little bit tricky, but after some sweatings, they were in place and fully moveable to show the function in the ready model.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 10

    The main wheels were completed after I renewed the outer side (contact surface). There happens a little mistake by me, the middle stripe was not exact in the middle and so I grind it away and do it again. The little konus nearby the axle was made of the original paper part and strengthen with superglue.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 11

    After mounting the parts I primed all with airbrush to get a good underground for the finish color (german panzergrey).

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  6. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 12

    *Tip: Working with very little rivets is not so difficult. Make a hole by the correct diameter of the rivetshaft in the right place of the model. If you want do mount the rivet in 0,3 mm sheet metal, you need also a sheet of spill of the same material with the same exact hole. Put the rivet in the hole of the spill material and turn the sheet. Cut the excess length whith a edge cutter as short as possible. Take a fine needle file and remove the rest of the shaft until it is as long as the thickness of the sheet metal. Remove it and turn it, so that the round head is at the top. Apply it whith a very fine tweezers in the hole at the model and fix it carefully with very thin (colorless) paint (I use Gunze Mr. Metal Primer). Best tweezers are available for handling very small SMD components (electronic tools).

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 13

    *Tip: Cyancylat or superglue is a very important little helper for every modelbuilder, but unsatisfyingly, it is nearly impossible to use the little bottle, till it is realy empty. Mostly it is unusable by a closed opening after a short time of using (20-30% of contents). I try to get in the way of this by using only hypodermic syringe with small needles to applicate the glue. I draw a little bit (1-2 ml) out of the original bottle and after using I park the syringe with the needle downward in a glass of aceton (nailcolor-remover) which is also likewise use as a thinner for superglue (mostly). If the neddle ist plugging by glue, I heat it whith my firelighter (carefully) and with the burnout of the glue, the needle comes free (don't push at the back end of the syringe by this burnout procedure or you will get a flamethrower!). So the original glue bottle stay clean for a longer time and can be used nearly to end. To store superglue in a refrigerator is also a good idea to get it usable for a longer time.

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  7. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 14

    The axles were made of some brass tubes with dimensions able to put them in together. The open end of the tubes were closed with a piece of thick paper, after cutting it with a punching tool in the right diameter. You will see again a combination of metall parts with original paper parts (rounded one).
    On the left side (in fire direction) you can see the mechanic for the side correction of the cannon. This little parts show the great advantage of etching parts, because I think it is nearly unpossible to cut this parts in a clean and exact way out of paper (reinforced with extra card to 0.5-0.8 mm) and I don't want to talk about the stability.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 15

    If you look at the newer kits in our hobby (espacially the newer HMV models), you will see really perfect parts and detailing (5.000 parts and more) but is this really useable in the good old cutting, forming, glueing way? With new technics in printing there is no problem to realise this tiny parts in printing on paper, but is it still possible to cut out all of them, form them and glue to place in a proper way. I think not, and so etching parts becomes more and more interesting in our hobby and in the way to make the perfect model. A little explanation to doing etching parts by yourself you can find here:
    http://www.cardmodels.net/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2270&start=30

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 16

    After cutting and cleaning the wheelnuts, I produce a little part-collection for the storage of the handlever at the end of the cannon. This were the last parts for the main frame and after mounting them, I come to the colering.

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  8. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 17

    The whole main frame was airbrushed with german panzergrey. After drying over night, I make a wash with black aquarellcolor (few color - much water) to show more details to the little parts (rivets and so..), simulating more shadow. It is realy possible to work with watercolor, using a little trick.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 18

    *TIP: Mix some drops of 'Ochsengalle' (oxgall?) to the color and the moistening of water on non absorbent, flush surfaces is the same like with enamel or arcrylic paint. But there is a great advantage by using aquarellpainting colors - if the result is not in the way you want - wash it away with water and do it again. Oxgall(?) is a special liquid, which is exact, what the name say (bah, igitt!), but works well and is available in shops for artists (aquarell-, oil-painting) or graphic specialists.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 19

    After the washing, I do a dry brushing (paint-brush and very few color) with light grey - right, again with watercolor - to accentuate the light on the edges and uprisings.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 20

    By this methode you should have not too wet (sweating) hands or you will smear your work away. A sprayed-on layer of colorless finish would stop this effect and is a good basic for further proceeding.

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  9. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Josef,

    THe master's touch! You've accomplished as near to perfection as I've ever seen..., Bravo, Bravo!

    Gil
  10. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Josef, I hope you have published this somewhere else too, in a forum of your true peers. In any case you should seriously consider submitting these photos and building report to one of the high-class printed magazines as well. Scale Modeller (?) comes to mind. I often glance through that at the library. They publish reports of advanced plastic kit builds. Your efforts and skill far surpasses anything I've seen there, and you've already got the photowork done.

    Please consider this. I'm sure you know these magazines better than I do.

    I value all your tips very highly. In particular I'll remember those on cyanacrylat, aceton, and burning out a syringe; plus the oxgall and watercolour. Great to see someone advocating the use of water colour in connection with paper models. Many are unreasonably frightened of this connection, I've noticed.

    I realize the sense you are making with photo etching. Unfortunately, I'm afraid that's out of my league, but you are probably absolutely right about it coming to the fore.

    Leif
  11. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    Wow, and I thought I was lucky to be in a large format printing business. Great build.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  12. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hi, Gil!

    Thank you very much for your commendation, but you embarrass me. I don't reach perfection, but try to come as near as possible every time.

    Josef
  13. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hello Leif!

    I'm very amused to read again such nice words of my greatest fan. Great thanks to you. I feel very comfortable in this forum, seeing the high standard of abilities in the other reports, but you're right, someone could know this story about the cannon, because I present it also in some other forums (german speaking). One of the forums is primary busy with plastic models. Here I try to make some advertising for cardmodels.

    Kindly regards
    Josef
  14. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hello, bholderman!

    I'm very happy to have the possibilities (place, tools, time) for intensive working to my hobbies. But this is only possible by the grasp and endurance of my wife - in german we say: EAF (Ehefrauen-Akzeptanz-Faktor) in english it would be: WAF (wife-acceptance-factor).

    The highness of the WAF represents the amount of hobby activities. :lol:

    Servus
    Josef
  15. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 21

    Gun carriage and barrel.
    The parts were builing by using photo etched parts made of brass thickness 0,3 mm (on one picture you can see a basicsheet, just coming out of my etching equipment), ironwires in different diameters, paper and some parts were made of plastic on my lathe.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 22

    For the inside of the barrel I want to show the grooving of a real cannon. So I made a flat etchpart with slots and right dimensions, roll it to a tube, close the gap by soldering and press it in a plastic tube, which was produced on my lathe. I think the result is looking not so bad and the number of groovings is the same like the original (I have counted them with a magnifier on a photo).

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  16. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 23

    The hexagon bolts in the sliding block of the barrel were real ones with a M1 thread - diameter 1 mm.
    Most parts were moveable, like the original (gun carriage up-down including the correct moving of the main cylinders, barrel in gun carriage forward-backward by backstroke, closure in barrel open-close).

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 24

    On some pictures you will see some smearings, this is real grease to make the metalparts better moveable.
    Most parts were glueing together with cyanacrylate (superglue).

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  17. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 25

    *TIP: I normally use 4 sorts of cyanacrylate glue (prefering the industrial glues of Loctite). Very thin (and very fast drying - realy seconds), semifluid, viscous and a semifluid black special glue, which is more elastic after drying.

    The very thin one I use by all parts, which were still hold togehter and it is only necessary to fix them, by spilling some glue into the gap. Also I use it for reinforcing of normal paper.

    The semifluid one is used by little parts, which must place to correct position after applying of glue.

    The viscous one is using in the same way for greater parts, because the useable time is longer ever viscousity of the glue. Also I use the viscous one very often as a filler to close gaps, because it is very easy to grind and make a flat surface.

    The semifluid or viscous one is also good for using on places where it would be seen, because if you are realy quick (5 seconds), it is possible to remove overflowing glue with a brush and some aceton.

    The semifluid black one is used for parts, where it is important to become some flexibility for tension and elasticity, but it needs a long time for complete drying (overnight). This one is also good in use as a filler, closing bigger gaps too.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 26

    Coloring was made in same way, like in the other steps, except the closure. For this part I want to restore a metallic look and so I use a black pantone trio-pen, which is able to airbrushing with a special assecory and which dries in a smooth semiglossing, semitransparent way. The color is after drying water-resistant and very thin.

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  18. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 27

    TIP: After cutting of wires it is needful to remove the sharp edges and the cutting burr. I used a special tool in my minidrill, don't know the english word, but in german it is a 'Finierfraeser', used to round the ends of a cutting wire and is used by goldsmiths. Many special tools of goldsmiths are very interesting and usefull for modelers. Take a look at www.zujeddeloh.de, where you can find the special milling cutters under the partnumber 89500493.

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  19. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    So true, currently mine is under the limits.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  20. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 28

    By some pictures I used my drawings as a background to give a little snapshot to the basicwork of this project. Indeed it is a fact, that the preparing work of designing, constructing and drawing for such a project need more than double time, like building it.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 29

    The parts of this step were few, but difficult for their smallness. Not much to say for the progress, like it was the same as by the other steps.

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    sIG-33 Cannon, Part 30

    Only the mounting of the sights to the cannon was quite nerve-racking, because the axle of the gun carriage was fixed to the mechanic of the main cylinders and so the whole optical sight must sit in a moveable way on this axle. The right direction of the sights is vertical at every position of the barrel.

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