I've got this steamer.....

Glen Haasdyk

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As the title reads I've got this 4-6-0 steam engine that I've had for almost 20 years but It's got to be at least 30 years old:
aad.sized.jpg


I've always wondered what make it is. It doesn't look like a bowser, MDC or Varney. it is a cast metal boiler and tender with no valve gear. Any Ideas?
 

CRed

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Mantua/Tyco maybe?

just a guess on my part,but I've seen similar engines on e-bay.

*EDIT* Nice looking little engine by the way!

Chris
 

Glen Haasdyk

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I don't think it's either of those.
Another reason I'm asking is that the tender trucks are coming apart on it. They had a joint from the bolster to the sideframes that has fatigues and the sideframes are now falling out, dropping the wheels so they contact the tender frame and short the engine out. I'm looking for some replacement trucks or at least a way to repair the current ones.
 

doctorwayne

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My guess is that it may be an MDC Old Timer. I think that they made both a Ten-Wheeler and a Consolidation. The clue for me is the separate stack, as they were available as a parts sprue. You could try asking Ray, as I'm sure he'd know.

I stand corrected: MDC made an oldtimer Consolidation and a Mogul. Your Ten-Wheeler appears to be one of two versions of 4-6-0 offered by Arbour Models. Some parts may be available through Bowser.

Wayne
 

Glen Haasdyk

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Thanks for all the help so far. No there are no initials on the underside of either the engine or tender. So far The Arbor models suggestion seems the closest. The engine has been re-powered sometime in it's life since it's got a can mtor in it now and runs very quiet. If it helps there almost seems to be a curved plate over the bottom of the driver gear so it's not exposed.
 

Ray Marinaccio

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What a beauty.
You got me on this one.
Arbour Models is a possibility.
Aristo craft Maybe?
I found an add for a United Scale Models V&T 4-6-0 that looks like it, but I thought the United Models were brass. could be wrong.
Could you post a photo of the bottom of the tender (and truck)?
 

doctorwayne

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Glen, neither of the drawings in the Bowser catalogue show such a plate, but it may have been added by the person who remotored it. From the photo, yours appears to be closer to Arbour's "Sylvania Central 4-6-0. The side of the cab is exactly the same, and the window arrangement on the front cab wall also seems to be the same. While it's difficult to tell on the drawing, the class lights also seem to be the same 'tall' style, and the style of the domes is the same. The headlight, however, is the same as that in the drawing of their Sierra 4-6-0. To further complicate things, the boiler also appears to be from the Sierra model, as it has only one large-diameter section in front of the cab, then the taper, a small diameter boiler section, and then the smokebox. The Sylvania Central boiler has two large diameter boiler courses ahead of the cab, then the taper, a small-diameter course, and then the smokebox. It may have been kitbashed if it actually is from Arbour.

Wayne
 

Ray Marinaccio

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After seeing this page that discribes the Arbour Models 4-6-0s I am not sure it is an Arbour Models
http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/rolling-stock/Steam/Steam-models-Arbor.php

It doesn't look like the Aristo craft either.
http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/rolling-stock/Steam/Steam-models-Aristo-Craft.php
I did find this.
http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/rolling-stock/Steam/Steam-The-Loco-Co-4-6-0-M&Pa-28.jpg
made by The Locomotive Co.
http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/rolling-stock/Steam/Steam-models-Locomotive-Co.php
Could yours be a kit-bash using parts from some of their other models or another one of their models not listed on that page?
 

Glen Haasdyk

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It looks alot like the engine from the Locomotive Co. The main difference there is the pilot. But I'm sure that can be changed on the model. I've never taken the loco apart Since I might not get it back together properly afterwards.
I unfortunetly can't get a picture of the bottom right away since I don't have a digital camera But I'll see what I can do.
I have taken the rear truck apart and it apears as though the bolster is broken and is missing a retainer to hold the sideframe in. I would simply go out and get some others but the engine picks up current through the on side of the tender trucks and they have a strange plastic bushing and spring the the center of the bolster where the mounting stud goes through. The trucks are held on by nuts that touch only the plastic bushing. Any reason for this design?
 

Ray Marinaccio

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Glen,
The trucks may be mounted that way so the tender is electrically neutral.
I have a few locos that I should do that to to prevent arcing between the tender and loco on sharp radius turns.
I used JB weld to repair a truck on one of my Aristo craft tenders. I am not sure it will work on yours without seeing it.
 

doctorwayne

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Glen, the pilot on your loco is a dead ringer for the pilot on either of the Arbour models, but I have to agree with Ray's assessment: it looks like the bulk of the locomotive is by the Locomotive Co. The class lights do appear to be the same as those offered by Arbour. The pilots for both of Arbour's Ten-Wheelers appear to be exactly the same, but they have different part numbers. Both appear to be one piece castings.
I also checked the tender drawings, which are separate from the loco drawings, and was surprised to discover that the Arbour models were powered by what appear to be can motors, but they were both tender drives. The drawings are very poor quality, and the truck attachment method is not even shown.

Wayne
 

Glen Haasdyk

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It is defiently not a tender drive. The drivetrain looks like it's all self-contianed in the engine with a casing around all the gears (none showing) I should have pictures of both the engine (better than the pervious one) and the broken tender truck. It does look like the cast metal on the tender truck broke so maybe JB weld would work.
 

Glen Haasdyk

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I've got some more photos:
ajd.jpg


aje.sized.jpg


ajf.sized.jpg


Here's a close-up of the broken tender truck, the swivel joint is stil attached to the sideframe.

ajg.sized.jpg


The tender underside with the truck mounting stud, making it difficult to change trucks.
 

toptrain1

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I agree with the Arbour Model, 4-6-0 Sylvania Central. With a reworked front pilot. Replace the truck with one from another manufacture.
 

doctorwayne

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Glen Haasdyk said:
This thread is getting burried without an answer to my broken tender truck question. Wayne, or Ray, any sugestions on repairing of replacing the pictured truck?

Well, Glen, you could repair the tender truck, but you'd have to get it dead on, or you'll be plagued by derailments or poor current pick-up.
Bachmann has a similarily-styled archbar truck that's used on the tender of their 4-6-0. Probably the easiest way to get them is to order direct from Bachmann: the 'phone number is 1-800-356-3910, Extension 11 or 17 for Parts. Tell them that you want a pair of trucks like those used on the tender of their #82301 Ten-Wheeler (this is the "low boiler" version), and that you also need the axle wipers and all mounting hardware. You can pay over the 'phone by credit card, or, find out the total cost, including shipping, then send them the request, along with a money order, by mail. Their address is:

Bachmann Industries Inc.,
1400 East Erie Avenue,
Philadephia, Pa. 19124
USA

They also have a web site, which may show the loco and tender, but I don't think they show individual parts.
www.bachmanntrains.com

Hope this helps.:)

Wayne
 

pgandw

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I don't know from personal experience but I have read that both Arbour Models and The Locomotive Company had a number of problems with their casting processes. The result was poor quality, soft, or brittle, or easily broken castings. The multitude of problems with the castings were apparently the downfall of both companies. The Sylvania Central 4-6-0 was by far the most produced locomotive of the lines of these 2 companies.

As Wayne said, replacing the trucks is probably the best course of action, even though it might mean removing the truck mounting posts, and drilling and tapping a new machine screw hole.

my thoughts, your choices
 

Russ Bellinis

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I think MDC offers the correct truck for your tender with insulated wheel sets and brass pick ups. You would need to remove that mounting stud and drill and tap the tender frame for a #2-56 screw to mount the MDC trucks with. The other possibility for a conversion would be the Bowser (ex-Varney) 4-6-0 tender trucks. In any case, you are going to have to modify the tender floor for the truck mounting and power pick up.