Imcold X-Wing - discussion/building thread (http://xwingpm.wz.cz/)

starbuck

Well-Known Member
Hi together,
at the end of my last build (Star Wars T-74 Snowspeeder) I announced to build also the above mentioned X-Wing.
Based on the existing thread: http://www.zealot.com/threads/my-imcolds-x-wing-build.179015/ I did not want to start a thread, but bigpetr mentioned that it might make sense to create a "discussion" thread on this model - and here we are.
I do not have the plan (maybe I will change my mind) to add greebles, as I am not experienced enough to do so - if interested in greebeling please check the above mentioned thread.

WARNING: Based on the skiing season and my tasks at work and at home this will not be a fast build. (But I will try to finalize it before the Viper Mark I is ready for launch;-))

So lets start and see where discussion points - or tips - will come up.
 

starbuck

Well-Known Member
I have printed the parts on 180 gsm paper.
I will start with the droid plate.
The basis plate I enforced by gluing on another layer of paper.

Enclosed first parts and the coming parts.
 

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starbuck

Well-Known Member
Next parts of droid plate - small parts - but by checking the instruction page they can be placed correctly. The instruction page and the reference photo taken from bigpetrs thread. ;-))

As the edges are white I decided to paint them with copic marker.
 

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Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
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It looks like you are off to a good start. I will be following this thread.
 

Cybergrinder

Member Extraordinaire
Thanks Starbuck, this one is also on my "to do list" (which is very long...) :) Between Bigpetr's and your threads I think we will have the definitive build guide for this model :)

I'll be watching closely, you're off to a great start!
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
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Please, take this as constructive criticism: cut either inside, or outside the line, or better yet, on the line. I would suggest getting high quality scissors, and taking some of these cuts at multiple passes (on the parts that you cannot use scissors on), as you can see the part distortion already on some of the edges. Most of the errors could be simply fixed by printing another sheet of parts on thin paper, and gluing it to the tops of the parts in question, then building up the edges underneath with either a thick glue, or mixture of glue and paper dust. What you are running into on your models is called "accrued intolerance". This adds up, then, further down the line, something doesn't fit, or isn't squared up and true. Make each part a model in itself, then the results will be stunning. ;)
 

starbuck

Well-Known Member
@ Zathros - thx for the tip - I know what you mean. Be asured that your tips (tips of all members) always will be very welcome.

By the way: What are you all using for cutting the parts - sissors or blades? Reading zathros tip it seems to be the better idea to use sissors.

@Revell-Fan: that is a great plan - don´t stress yourself.

------------------------
Next parts of the droid plate. To get the correct hight of the parts I glued the respective parts to another layer of paper.
Next parts cut - uuuuh they are partly really small - hard to cut with my blade - I think the tip of zathros to use sissors is a really good idea, as these small
parts are not cut exactly. Hope it will work nevertheless.
 

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thegreek270

Active Member
Hi starbuck,

nice start you have there with this model.
Like Cybergrinder i too have this one on my "to do list" (which unfortunately grows larger day by day ...).

I'll be watching this one.

As for your question. I use both depending on the part, whichever comes more handy.
Short straight lines are quickly done with scissors, but for long ones i use the blade and a steel ruler.
For curved parts i too use mostly scissors. The outside is not a problem, it's the inside which makes trouble. As long as the curve is not too small it can be handled (like your part D16). With D17 and D18 though i would first do the inside with the blade and then the outside with scissors. This should give you clean edges.
I agree with Zathros at this point. The scissors should be of high quality otherwise the cutting blade quickly goes from cutting to chewing the paper and that is not very nice for the parts.

@Revell-Fan . Good Luck with that. I tried that in 2018 .... and failed.:( Well there is another Year in front of us to try to succeed;).


thegreek270
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
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I have a nice pair of curved scissors I got a "Micheal's Craft Stores", that was part of a set. The whole thing was around $25 bucks, but since the curved ones are used for specific cuts, they have really kept their edge, in fact, all have remained sharp. The curved ones work great for inside parts, relief cuts really help out a lot on inside cuts, it keeps the lengths short, and accurate. :)
 

starbuck

Well-Known Member
My toolbox for building paper models will be updated soon. Did not find good sissors in local stores, so I had to order in internet.
----------------------
Next steps of the droid plate can be seen in the next pictures. Next will be the droid.
I also added the attached greebles - except 2.
To place the parts I also checked the droid plate of my X-Wing plastic model.
It is not perfect, but I am happy having managed all the small parts. Hope the inaccuracies will not be seen on the final and weathered model.
I think that weathering upgrades the model and also - in my case helps to hide small inaccuracies.
 

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starbuck

Well-Known Member
It is coming along quite nicely! :)
I am happy so far.
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Next the droid.
The feed I laminated on a thicker cardstock which made it more easy to create.
For the round parts I used tabs which help to put all parts together.
Next will be the fuselage.
 

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starbuck

Well-Known Member
Looking great Starbuck, keep it up!

Thanks for your encouraging words.
Based on greebles I forgot to mention: CHECK THE RESOURCE SECTION--> you will find the additional parts created by Bigpetr. - THANK YOU - BIGPETR!!!!

I think I will print the cockpit a second time to:
a.) reinforce it and
b.) to have the same colour scheme on the inner side

(pics to follow)
 

starbuck

Well-Known Member
As announced the next pictures.
- got my new tools
- cockpit - I glued the plastic parts between the two layers of the cockpit - gives a realistic feeling
- nose also finalized

Enclosed Pic 4 the plastic version of the back-plate.
Pricipally I know how to put it together, but - see last 3 pictures - how to place the parts separated on the last but one pic?
(the last one is from the photobucket of the designer)

I thought about cutting to fit - but I am sure this is not the plan of the designer.
Next I thought about to double the parts and to place them above and below - better - maybe the way?
 

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starbuck

Well-Known Member
No, both wrong. Checking the pictures again and again I finally found out how to do.
Just place it on the given parts and wrap it around - and the loose end will find together.
Pictures to follow.
 
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