I'm a older really new guy (& boy do I need help).

raybanduchi

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
7
0
1
75
SC
Okay here goes, mid-50's I got a Lionel-O gauge-I guess, three rails. I've seen a lot o'talk and have no idea, but I learn fast.

1. O gauge real?
2. O gauge fast track?
3. O gauge MTH?
4. O-24 gauge?
5. O-37 gauge?

et cetera, et cetera, et cetera.

How do I know what I have, what I need, and where to get what I want?

Thanx-The REAL FNG
 

steamhead

Active Member
Apr 16, 2005
2,360
0
36
75
Brownsville, TX
Hi Ray,

I haven't a clue as to what you have...other than to say they're trains. There are a lot of folks here who will help you out, I'm sure.

I just want to say "Welcome to The Gauge...!!!" You'll find it a very rewarding experience.:thumb:
 

60103

Pooh Bah
Mar 25, 2002
4,754
0
36
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Visit site
Hi Ray.
In the 1950s Lionel made 3 types of track. In the late 50s they introduced Super-O, which had plastic ties, a lot of them, and a blade center rail. The other types were called tubular track, and came in light and regular weights.
--The light weight was called O-27. A circle measured 27" diameter over the outside of the ties. A straight track was 9" long.
--The heavy weight was called O or O-31. A circle measured 31" diameter and a straight track was 10" long.
Sometimes they made wider curves in either size - O-72 was a 6 foot circle in the heavy weight.
Marx also made a few varieties in the light weight; this was compatible with O-27 and cheaper
If you give us the numbers from your locomotives we may be able to give more advice..
 

raybanduchi

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
7
0
1
75
SC
Now we're talkin'

Thanx, 60103!

I just measured the track in is 10". That means I have O - 31 right?

I checked the engine over and the only numbers are the ones on the side of the cab. Is that the one you mean?

P.S. Thanx to you Guys for the Welcome!
 

60103

Pooh Bah
Mar 25, 2002
4,754
0
36
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Visit site
Measure the outside diameter -- over the ties even. It's a rotten method, but that's what Lionel did.
And the numbers are on the cab. Lionel generally put the model number on the locomotive -- in later years they started to put real numbers on. Steam locos intended for O gauge had 3 digits; O27 ones had 4. That didn't seem to work with diesels. Often the same loco would have both an O and O27 number.
With cars, the first number indicated the type of coupling; between 1930 and 1950 they went through a whole series of couplings and variations.
 

raybanduchi

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
7
0
1
75
SC
1. Okay the engine is 736, which further confirms a O31 right?

2. The track I have is rusty, I went to a local hobby shop and they said replace it rather than clean it. Something about connectivity and insulators. Was that just a salesmans pitch or was it the straight scoop?

3. I've got a basic plan in mind, where do I find out about how to do the bench work and radi, and transformers, etc.?

4. Is there a book of basics, you guys recommend?

5. Is there a point at which you need to have power ampliiers, if the track is too long?

So many questions so little time!

Thanx,
Dick
 

60103

Pooh Bah
Mar 25, 2002
4,754
0
36
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Visit site
I'll see what I know. :D
raybanduchi said:
1. Okay the engine is 736, which further confirms a O31 right?
Sounds reasonable. I think the 736 was a nice loco.
2. The track I have is rusty, I went to a local hobby shop and they said replace it rather than clean it. Something about connectivity and insulators. Was that just a salesmans pitch or was it the straight scoop?
They're probably right. I dug some old track out of my father's basement this year and I don't know if I can clean it. If I could find similar track (Hornby O) I might replace it.
3. I've got a basic plan in mind, where do I find out about how to do the bench work and radi, and transformers, etc.?
Oh, Boy... look for a couple of magazines: Classic Toy Trains and O Gauge Railroading. They usually cover such things, especially in the run-up to Christmas. The hobby shop should stock some books; bench work and scenery works for all scales.
4. Is there a book of basics, you guys recommend?
Check section 625 in your library. Books are often out of date by the time they're published. For your trains, an older Toy Train book should be good.
5. Is there a point at which you need to have power ampliiers, if the track is too long?
You shouldn't need anything like a power amplifier in any moerately sized layout. What happens is that you lose a bit of current at the rail joints and eventually the train starts to slow down at the far side of the circuit. What you do then is add power feeders every so often along the track. Easiest is a lockon and a larger gauge wire going around the layout from the transformer -- same 2 terminals. Look for threads on Bus wiring for ideas. You only need more power when you add more load: extra cars with lights, operating accessories; extra locomotives.
So many questions so little time!

Thanx,
Dick
 

pgandw

Active Member
Jul 9, 2005
1,002
0
36
Try cleaning the track with a ScotchBrite pad first. If the rust is not heavy, it can usually be recovered with cleaning. The only real issue is the condition of the heavy paper insulating tabs used to insulate the center rail from the metal ties. As long as these are intact, and the track can be cleaned, you are good to go. If you have an VOM or continuity checker, you can check to see that there is infinite resistance between the center rail and either of the outer rails. If the reading is an open (infinite resistance) the insulators are working fine.

yours in tracking