Idea... Need help...

Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by Xaniel, Mar 10, 2003.

  1. Xaniel

    Xaniel Member

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    well this will be the plan.

    But first my have my Computer upgraded. An just by the end of the month I'll think on starting building this.

    I'm almost finishing my computer techinician course, and 17th, 18th, 23rd, 24th, and the 25th of June will be days of many work at school.

    This plan, as almost every plans, will be changed according to my needs.

    Well, with this plan, I need to know how to build a good light weight structure (still thinking about balsa) and subroad bed materials.

    Also need to know what hardware should I use to connect my modules.

    And what is the correct way to paint rolling stock. Brush? Air brush? or Spray can? Want to paint the locos I have in red, since almost every european locos i like and want to have in my collection are red.

    So i'll be paint one LL GP38 (BN), and one LL SD9(B&O). The only I won't paint will be my SF E7 (I love SF livery). SO how can I paint them in the correct way?

    Been choosing some installations from vollmer, pola, faller and so on.

    Many of you will be wondering how will this be possible to join european style with maerican stile? My answer is: Who cares? It's up to you to make your imaginary world. So that's what I'll do. American diesel locos for freight, and electric european loco sfor some freight, but most for passengers. I think it's a way to bring these two scenes together. Just hope that the look good here. If they don't... Oh well.
  2. csxnscale

    csxnscale Member

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    Louis,
    Great idea of combining U.S. trains with European passenger trains.
    About lightweight modules, this is what I do:
    make a skelet with 2" by 1" pine wood and glue extruded foam on top of it. The result is strong and lightweight.

    Paul
  3. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

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    I'll try to describe a "run around track." Someone else may yet draw up a plan to answer your question, but I'm not good enough with a computer to know how to do that. Basically at the topof your track plan put in a cross over at each end of the straight. That way the locomotive can uncouple from the train and then back trhough the cross over to the other track. Continue to back up around the train and couple on to the rear of the train. It is indispensible for getting cars in front of the engine to work industries off of a forward facing switch.
  4. Xaniel

    Xaniel Member

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    This is the kind of connection i want to have between my modules, but hw can I achieve such perfection?

    btw, the modules are not yet completely screwed together in this picture. (seen at http://www.modell-bahn.de)

    Attached Files:

  5. Xaniel

    Xaniel Member

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    Hi,

    How can I achieve this kind of perfection building this kind of interface between my modules?

    Btw,the modules are not yet completely screwed together (seen at http://www.model-bahn.de)

    Thanks

    Attached Files:

  6. Xaniel

    Xaniel Member

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    Hi,

    (please delete the previous posts, because my computer gave some errors.. bad internet connection :( )

    How can I achieve this kind of perfection building this kind of interface between my modules?

    Btw,the modules are not yet completely screwed together (seen at http://www.modell-bahn.ch)

    Thanks

    Attached Files:

  7. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

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    Admin, please delete, thank you.
  8. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    Luis:
    The NTrak way to do it is to leave room for a section of track at the joint (half on each side) and put the section in when you join them. The sction of track is ballasted (or not) to make it less visible.
    Some people do it just like the picture, with space to slide the rail joiners out of the way. I would leave the ends a little loose for alignment.
    I have read articles where brass screws are put into the roadbed close to the end and the rails soldered to them. This makes a very solid location. The people using this usually omit the rail joiners.
    Joining the baseboards?
    C clamps.
    6 mm (1/4") bolts and nuts with washers.
    Hinges bolted flat to the sides of the baseboards so that the pin can be removed/inserted to hold them in place.
    Dowels in the end boards to force a match.
    I had one where the builder had cut the under-plywood in a tooth/indenture shape to force a match. (This was very heavy construction.)
  9. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

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    If you are building a permanent layout where the connections won't be taken apart and put together regularly, you can do it just like the picture. For a module that will be taken apart and put together regularly, track coming to the edge of the benchwork needs to be protected in transit. Some members of the modular club I belong to have done similar trackwork between modules, and they put a piece of aluminum angle over the tracks to protect them in transit. If the rails extending to the edge of the benchwork get bumped, they will be damaged.