How to Do a Stucco Finish on Cerealboard

[James Schultz]

Good Morning eneryone,

Thanks for the birthday greeting today. I really appreciated it. Thanks also for helping me find where The Gauge e-zine is. I enjoyed reading it and gleaned some good info from it. I also enjoy reading the postings, lot of good info and the members of The Gauge are a wealth of information. I mentioned once before that I wanted to model a 50-60's Gas station in HO. I started last night to scratch build one out of cerealboard last night but ran into a couple of snags and I'm sure that someone on The Gauge will be able to enlighten me on some solutions to these problems. I'm using as my basic design a plan that was in MR magazine several years ago. The plans say to paint the walls in a stucco finish and I want to know if there is a way to finish cerealboard in a stucco finish. My second question is how do you make windows, doors and the like witb cerealboard. I really don't want to buy them if I don't have to. I'd rather save the money to use on something else if possible.

I just had another thought -- how would I model gas pumps, soda machines, car lifts and the other details that you usually find around a gas station. I would appreciate any input I can get and look forward to hearing from all of you. I'm sure you'll be hearing from me often since I am artistically challenged. Thanks again.

God bless each of you


Jim

 

[nachoman]

For stucco, I have glued 220 grit sandpaper to the wall of the building, giving it textrure. After a few coats of an off-white paint, it looks great. for windows - slice the cerealboard into about 3" scale strips with a hobby kinfe and a straight edge. glue the strips around the perimiter of the window to form a moulding. Glue more strips around the inisde perimiter to form the window sill. For the sash, I glued one piece of stripwood horizonatally down the center of the window. Hmm. I should post a photo.

kevin

 

[nachoman]

here is a photo:

 

[James Schultz]

Thanks for the help. It looks great. It also sounds very easy to do. Did you paint the strips before or after you glued them on?

Jim

 

[CalFlash]

Depending on the scale, the sandpaper method might work. In HO I prefer to use artist acrylics out of a tube and "stipple" it on. I also use this method for tarred roofing.

 

[Matthyro]

Have a look at this thread in the Academy for a gas station:
http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=7438

 

[shaygetz]

I model HO and am happy with the results I get from a product called "Decorative Snow". It's an acrylic based medium with a fine grit mixed in, water based and non-toxic. Wal-Mart and most craft stores sell it at about $2.50 a 4 oz. tub. Stipple it on with a brush, let dry then paint it your desired color.

 

[belg]

We have been using two other products for quite awhile, one is Durham putty and the second is made by Decoart and is called sandstone usually found in art supply or craft stores. Both go on the same way with a stipple brush and remember leave well enough alone let your first coat dry fully and then make any additional touch ups as it looks completely different when dry. Pat

 

[Muddy Creek]

While I never applied it over cereal board, I've had good success using DAP Lightweight Spackle straight out of the container & troweled on thinly over basswood. The material can go on quite thinly & can be finished in a number of ways while wet. I imagine patting it with a fine-cell sponge would give a stucco effect. Warping or curling while drying may be an issue, so fasten it down well.

I've embossed this material when dried to represent stone as in a recent MR article, using a pencil with the rubber removed from the eraser end. It takes the usual finishes that plaster will.

Wayne