How do I paint my finished card stock/paper model?

Discussion in 'How Do I...' started by Sudsy, Oct 28, 2018.

  1. Sudsy

    Sudsy New Member

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    So, how do you paint your finished cardstock/paper models?

    The one I am currently working obviously needs a good coat of paint (what, with the wood glue, 1:1 scale finger prints, and paper pealing from some of the cereal box, speaking of cereal box...).

    My current plan is to prime it with regular spray paint, or maybe a spray gesso, and then do what I normally do with acrylic hobby paints (some Vallejo paints, but Delta Ceramcoat is just as good, and cheaper for more paint...).
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  2. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    I actually, after printing, spray the sheets with el cheapo Walmart Matte Spray Lacquer at about 2$ a can, I think CrystalClear is the brand. I spray one side with just enough that the card tends to become translucent when dry flip and repeat. The actual painting is either by brush or airbrush, depending on the effect I want, smooth or grunge. Grunge calls for a combo of the two, base coat with an airbrush or spray can ( The Cameo stuff from Walmart, though expensive, does a great job, and as I only do a small amount, the cans last a long time... all the other paint I use is mixed from liquid acrylic or tube acrylics, and matte acrylic permanent varnish, with a touch of water or just the right amount for airbrush work. The varnish also comes in Gloss by the way, but I very rarely use it in military modeling. I want to try Dulcoat one day and see if it is something I can use or not.

    Best thing is an airbrush, though paints are EXPENSIVE to buy, and mixing is a pain! Spray cans are taking a gamble every time as they can suddenly sploosh out globs on your model, and then you are screwed. It's a 50/50 risk.
    Brush... only if you want grunge as there is NO WAY to get a really clean smooth model by painting with a brush! You can get close, but not as well as an airbrush can do! There are all sorts of trials and tribulations in the Painting realm! Painters tape for masking, one time won't stick and you get overspray bleed, next time it rips the top surface of the painted part! Ya never know!

    I would NOT recommend an actual PRIMER coat, with PRIMER! It is TOO thick unless you decant into a jar and thin to needed consistency ( talking about acrylic here) auto primer is always thinned at least 2-1 but lacquer based.
    Actual Gesso is also too thick unless thinned, I don't care for the acrylic Gesso that is out now, too plastic for me.

    For a better answer, it would depend on the model. Your plan for spray paint sounds OK, just depends on if it needs matte finish or gloss and what type of primer coat. If you just need to seal the model before painting, the Matte Spray Acrylic Lacquer might be a good way to go. I assume you are talking about the Chimera? Then the Cameo series Walmart brand might be a way to go, as it would lay down a nice even flat primer in "?" military color for you. Then you could weather and dry brush with your other acrylics!

    You could try the flat black Interior/exterior Fast Dry Walmart special see this...
    http://www.zealot.com/threads/wont-say-what-it-is-till-later.180161/page-3#post-1026058
    makes a good base for painting and weathering, and there several ways to play with it. You can lightly rub it with an old piece of denim and it will make it look like a worn tire, with a burnisher you can make it look like metal with almost a dry brushed metal edge.
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
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  3. micahrogers

    micahrogers ...And the Wife...

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    Vallejo acrylic primers are pre-thinned, almost to thin for brushing on. But even so, if you tried to use them on a card model, the card would warp from the moister.
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  4. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    Yeah, I know... but seeing as I almost never buy commercial paints, due to their ridiculous prices... I was referring to el cheapo Walmart Spray Acrylic and decanting it to use as a cheap alternative!

    PS: airbrushing acrylics should never be heavy enough to WET the card stock, if you set things right, the paint should hit the card and dry almost immediately! THINNER coats!!! If it warps you are in too much of a hurry!
  5. paper hollywood

    paper hollywood Member

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    I do OK with good ole Krylon Crystal Clear spray. In fact, I've found if I spray the page well with it (maybe a couple of coats) I can even use pages printed with a laser printer and it won't break the lines at the bends (which is what happens otherwise with laser prints.
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  6. Sudsy

    Sudsy New Member

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    I missed the boat on spraying the paper before assembly. But I have the spray paints mentioned. I use the camo paint as my primer on my plastic miniatures and model kits anyway (after all, camo base makes for easy camo final layers...). That, or I use a flat black spray paint (influence of the GW publications such as White Dwarf there...) as my 'primer' even though it isn't primer (just regular spray paint).

    Since I lack an airbrush, I'll be using my paint brushes. Not a bad way for me to go, as most of my models already are painted that way, and it will fit the entire collection.

    Thank you for all the advice! Before I make my next couple of kits, I'm going to use the clear coat on the paper before I cut and assemble!
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  7. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    Yep ... that's the one! Works Great huh!

    My Pleasure! I hear ya on the airbrush... Sounds like a plan, a soft camel hair brush will do a pretty good job and can get close to airbrush quality! My small compressor went down just as I started my current build, I now have to drag all the parts I spray, out to the shop and use my 3-gallon shop compressor, which is a real pain. I really need a desktop one to stick under the model desk, but they are EXPENSIVE!! Like new computer expensive!
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  8. Sudsy

    Sudsy New Member

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    When looking at them and seeing finance options offered, with credit checks, thats too expensive!
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  9. micahrogers

    micahrogers ...And the Wife...

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    I know what ya mean about expensive, but I bought the Vallejo primer in the 8 ounce bottle, for $9.00 USD 2 years ago, and it's still over half full. Not a bad investment. I'm using apple barrel craft paints for more and more in my D&D minis, but they are still too thick for fine details...
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  10. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    Hey... same here El Cheapo from Walmat Apple Barrel, but I missed out on the Primer!!:( Use what I can... for cheap!

    I use some matte medium 16oz bottle that I have had for YEARS and still 1/3 full, and a touch of water... smooth enough to airbrush, and painting is no problem as it is mixed for specific needs! I have heard some folks thin with alcohol, and I tried it once, and it was a disaster, like adding lemon to a cup of tea with milk in it!!! Somewhere along the way, I got something wrong, or wrong paint!!
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2018
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  11. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    Better off and try Lowes, Home Depot or Harbor Freight and get a big-boy toy... still WAY cheaper that one of the HOBBY versions, still have to get an airbrush, but you're still saving hundreds of $$$!!
    Harbor Fright has a 58psi oilless for 87$ which would be just fine to drive a decent Pasche ( or cheaper make) gravity feed brush! Just have to do as I do and work out of the house... or sometimes when it is way too cold ( like your area), I have the 3gal 250psi monster, at 45lbs, and I fill it in the spare bath, with the door closed, then turn off the power and spray till it runs out, 3 gallons at 250psi last a LONG time, spraying at 15-25psi!!! Cost me 99$$, just a lot of NOISE and hard to move around!
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  12. micahrogers

    micahrogers ...And the Wife...

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    my current go to airbrush combo is a Neo for Iwata CN gravity feed double action brush, and a Husky roll around jobsite compressor, 2.5 gal tank to 150 PSI. not as loud as a pancake compressor, but it stands up and has wheels.
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  13. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    I got in on this late, but I always start with a soft misting on Satin Clear (Krylong). After that dries, I make sure I got everywhere, I;ll go in with a hard layer of Satin or Clear, depending on the model, then build up from there. I always start with Satin, I have found for some reason it seems to bite better, and gloss after will give it a nice semi gloss appearance, which is usually more realistic to me. My 2 cents worth. :)
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  14. ARMORMAN

    ARMORMAN FOUNDATION CORNERSTONE

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    I've airbrushed Future in light coats onto a model and I've also used Sandable Auto Body Primer laid down in light coats, which has an epoxy base; strengthening to overall model...painting is done with Tamiya or Citadel paints, primarily.

    As an example, I refer you to my Reaver Titan build...

    If you look carefully at the carapace, paldrons, and shin guards, they look like rough cast metal. This was accomplished using tinted artist's gel medium stippled onto the primed surface.

    BTW, I should note that aside from the rattle can primer, it was all brush painted.

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    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
  15. micahrogers

    micahrogers ...And the Wife...

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    Very nice work.., makes it look almost real
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