HMS Victory, Shipyard, 1:96
- Thread starter fuchsjos
- Start date
- Status
Yes Josef, thank you very much for posting this build. I'm avidly following it. I also am very new at this hobby and really like learning all of this, it's great!
B
Bionic Modeler
Yeah----I noticed that too. Hats off. I guess I am just a slob. I straighten everything up nice and neat then half way thru a model it looks like a tornado hit it. I am always amazed that those of German ancenstry seem to be have a propencity for keeping everything meticulously neat and clean. It shows up in their work too. I have some German friends and I won't let them in my garage. I let one in once and I aplogized for the mess and he said "That's OK it looked like that last time I was here". That was the last time he ever saw it again.
Here I show you a closer look at my workshop. It is full of junk, tools and materials and it is not neatly clean up. But I love to spend my few freetime in this chaos. The most important thing for me is enough light - so I use three fluorescent lamps with daylight color - also very good to take the fotos (with help of a tripod).
Josef
Josef
After having an idea about making the gratings I wanted to try it out. First I printed it out to 0,4 mm cardboard and prepare the tools.
Took the sharp knife and cut some small slots.
Did the same with another print but the other direction and glue both to another piece of cardboard to strengthen it.
Now I cut small strips with the roll cutter crossing against the direction of the first cut.
The stripes come together and form the grating.
After gluing and drying I cut the grating to the right dimension with the roll cutter (important to use this one, because a standard knife would destroy the structure). The cut area show the groove and tongue effect.
After painting the grating looks like this. The result of two evenings (6 hours). The whole caboodle is approx. 1 Inch long.
Much time, but I think the result is worth the afford ... and I'm not on escape.
For target-performance comparison look at the real thing.
Servus
Josef
Took the sharp knife and cut some small slots.
Did the same with another print but the other direction and glue both to another piece of cardboard to strengthen it.
Now I cut small strips with the roll cutter crossing against the direction of the first cut.
The stripes come together and form the grating.
After gluing and drying I cut the grating to the right dimension with the roll cutter (important to use this one, because a standard knife would destroy the structure). The cut area show the groove and tongue effect.
After painting the grating looks like this. The result of two evenings (6 hours). The whole caboodle is approx. 1 Inch long.
Much time, but I think the result is worth the afford ... and I'm not on escape.
For target-performance comparison look at the real thing.
Servus
Josef
Josef, I have remained so open-mouthed that my jaw has been dislocated.
Your method is something that I must try for myself soon, not on any model, but to practice and improve my own technique.
Thank you for showing your method step by step. Can you still be showing us more techniques like this one?
Again thank you.
Your method is something that I must try for myself soon, not on any model, but to practice and improve my own technique.
Thank you for showing your method step by step. Can you still be showing us more techniques like this one?
Again thank you.
B
Bionic Modeler
M
Mark_1984
Hi Josef,
Apart from the preceding comments, I can only ask, is Shipyard using your photos as a build reference? There have been some fantastic Victory models out there on the web, but your photos, to my knowledge, are supreme. And I thank you for that.
Gippo
Apart from the preceding comments, I can only ask, is Shipyard using your photos as a build reference? There have been some fantastic Victory models out there on the web, but your photos, to my knowledge, are supreme. And I thank you for that.
Gippo
P
paulhbell
After finishing of the gratings for the upper deck I glued them onto the deck. The printed borders were a little bit to big and I made some little frames to cover this failure.
Before working on with the decks I had to make the channels, because for the mounting of them it is also necessary to reach the backside of the side parts. But first of all I must try out the mounting of the channel chain. For this reason I made a little tool of paper card (soaked with CA glue) to try out the smallest bullseye (in original it is 6" - in model I make it 2,5 mm).
First I use a piece of 0,4 mm wire.
I bent it around the circular piece of cardboard and pressed it with a small flat pliers. One side of the wire was cut to the final dimension.
The other side of the wire was pressed also with the flat pliers against the bar.
Cut it to length of the other end and did a final forming.
The gap was tin soldered.
Two pieces of cardboard (thickness 0,4 mm) were punched with different tools (one with a diameter of 2 mm / one with a diameter of 2,5 mm). The different tools create different results (chamfer).
Another simple tool was helpful to glue both of the slices together in a concentric way.
Now I put the chain link to the dishes and glue another disc (2,5 mm) to them using CA glue to connect all together.
A third tool fixed the bullseye in a depression ...
... and on the other side of the tool there are three holes as a drilling gauge for the bullseye.
After drilling with 0,5 mm it looks like this.
Painted black and with a soft bending ...
... the bullseye with a chain link was inserted into the channel.
Next time I will show you how I made the channels and how I made a stable connection with the hull.
Josef
Before working on with the decks I had to make the channels, because for the mounting of them it is also necessary to reach the backside of the side parts. But first of all I must try out the mounting of the channel chain. For this reason I made a little tool of paper card (soaked with CA glue) to try out the smallest bullseye (in original it is 6" - in model I make it 2,5 mm).
First I use a piece of 0,4 mm wire.
I bent it around the circular piece of cardboard and pressed it with a small flat pliers. One side of the wire was cut to the final dimension.
The other side of the wire was pressed also with the flat pliers against the bar.
Cut it to length of the other end and did a final forming.
The gap was tin soldered.
Two pieces of cardboard (thickness 0,4 mm) were punched with different tools (one with a diameter of 2 mm / one with a diameter of 2,5 mm). The different tools create different results (chamfer).
Another simple tool was helpful to glue both of the slices together in a concentric way.
Now I put the chain link to the dishes and glue another disc (2,5 mm) to them using CA glue to connect all together.
A third tool fixed the bullseye in a depression ...
... and on the other side of the tool there are three holes as a drilling gauge for the bullseye.
After drilling with 0,5 mm it looks like this.
Painted black and with a soft bending ...
... the bullseye with a chain link was inserted into the channel.
Next time I will show you how I made the channels and how I made a stable connection with the hull.
Josef
Thank you Josef,
Now it is beginning to be like my "week show". I wait eagerly on Sunday evening to see with what you will delight us this time.
And to learn from THE MASTER. :inw:
A very BIG THANK TO YOU.:thumb:
Now it is beginning to be like my "week show". I wait eagerly on Sunday evening to see with what you will delight us this time.
And to learn from THE MASTER. :inw:
A very BIG THANK TO YOU.:thumb:
C
cgutzmer
@SCEtoAUX:
I have arrange a big place in my dining room where it will stay in place - it is too big to go on tour with it
@Iriera:
Thank you for your kind works, but I don't think, that I'm a master - I still try to do my best.
@Elliot:
Thank you too - and don't be afraid - this report will continue for the next three years :-(
@Chris:
Thank you for your attention - all commentaries are very welcome and cheer me on to make the work with doing all the pictures and translate my reports to english (which is hard enough).
Josef
I have arrange a big place in my dining room where it will stay in place - it is too big to go on tour with it
@Iriera:
Thank you for your kind works, but I don't think, that I'm a master - I still try to do my best.
@Elliot:
Thank you too - and don't be afraid - this report will continue for the next three years :-(
@Chris:
Thank you for your attention - all commentaries are very welcome and cheer me on to make the work with doing all the pictures and translate my reports to english (which is hard enough).
Josef
This three parts are the original print for one channel in the kit. Altogether they should show a thickness of 2 mm.
In the middle of the part I use a 0,9 mm thick cardboard and cut some grooves, where I glue 3 anlge brackets made of 1 mm iron wire. This wires I will glue into some holes in the hull to become a strong and resilient connection.
Here you see glued all together. On the upperside I mounted 4 rings of iron wire (0,4 mm). The mouldings on the front I simulated with a thin stripe of papercard and a thin (0,32 mm) solder wire. All was fixed with CA glue.
A drawing of the channel support brackets was printed out, compounded with 0,9 mm cardboard and cover both sides with normal copy paper. Look at the right side of the image.
Aluminium wire was bended with the help of a little jig ...
... with a crush and a drill one side was formed to a small flange.
After that I completed all parts with CA glue and started a small serial production.
The drawing showed me the right position for the support brackets on the channel.
Then I colored the part and glued it to the hull. The brackets were mounted with small brass rivets - so it was not only for an optical effect but also for a real supporting effect.
Kindly regards
Josef
In the middle of the part I use a 0,9 mm thick cardboard and cut some grooves, where I glue 3 anlge brackets made of 1 mm iron wire. This wires I will glue into some holes in the hull to become a strong and resilient connection.
Here you see glued all together. On the upperside I mounted 4 rings of iron wire (0,4 mm). The mouldings on the front I simulated with a thin stripe of papercard and a thin (0,32 mm) solder wire. All was fixed with CA glue.
A drawing of the channel support brackets was printed out, compounded with 0,9 mm cardboard and cover both sides with normal copy paper. Look at the right side of the image.
Aluminium wire was bended with the help of a little jig ...
... with a crush and a drill one side was formed to a small flange.
After that I completed all parts with CA glue and started a small serial production.
The drawing showed me the right position for the support brackets on the channel.
Then I colored the part and glued it to the hull. The brackets were mounted with small brass rivets - so it was not only for an optical effect but also for a real supporting effect.
Kindly regards
Josef
Josef you are very modest which is even better from you. Because each week I learn many new things from your posts. It is a pleasure watching you building your models.
Thank you.
Thank you.
- Status