HMS Victory, Shipyard, 1:96

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by fuchsjos, Mar 10, 2008.

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  1. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    This is the building log for the card model from Shipyard (polish publisher). The kit includes more than 6000 parts on 50 pages of A3. The parts are on 36 pages and the rest of the pages are instructions and pictures.
    As my English is not so good and it is very hard to translate the special names for the parts of a historical ships (don't know all the correct names in German), I will show more pictures than text. Otherwise I will answer every question to my building log as best I can do.

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    First step of building this ship was the framing.

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    I try to get a straight body with the use of a steel wire, diameter 2 mm

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    Also I use reinforcements of cardboard and white glue

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    This method wasn't a big success. After inserting all of the five decks the body was curved. So I use more force and a dramatically technique to learn it more discipline.

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    This brutal force produced some bended frames. They were moistening with wallpaper paste and after drying they stay in their bended form - but the body was straight.

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    Next part follows soon.

    Kindly regards
    Josef
  2. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Next part was a little piece of deck in the bow. I worked with engraving tools and gauche colors to get a realistic optic.

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  3. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Doing some additional work to the body.

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  4. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Next step was working on the cannons for the lowest deck (32-pounds). This work was a little refreshing time for my hurting fingers (cutting of cardboard could cause some irritations to fingers and bone-hinges.

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  5. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    After some working sessions for the cannons I did the first planking to the underwater part of the body.

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    After that, I worked on the holes for the guns. Some bulkheads were in the way for a correct placement of the guns - so I had to use the cutter once more.

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    The range over the waterline was planked only provisionally to find the correct positions of the guns in the middle of the loopholes.

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  6. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Now it was time for the final first planking.

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    Kind regards from
    Josef
  7. gian7675

    gian7675 Member

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    Holy cow...I like! :mrgreen:

    So you printed the formers and other parts on brownish/red cardboard? Nice idea :thumb: One wouldn't be worried of seeing white parts when peeking inside the gun ports.
  8. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Indeed! That's the idea behind.

    Josef
  9. lriera

    lriera Member

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    I am always impressed with your outstanding builds. You teach me a lot of new tips and tricks in each build. I will follow you along this build.

    Thank you for sharing and teaching.
  10. Tunny

    Tunny Papermodeler

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    Just in dreams I can build this model :)
  11. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Thank you for your attention!

    Time for a new session!

    It's like magic - I have finished the second planking for the port side.

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    Some gunwales were not in right place, but this is not a big problem. In the next session I will show, how I have correct the misplacing.

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    Waterline is in correct place.

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    To get a feeling for the dimension, I used my daughter in law for a model positional. And please don't ask - it is not possible to get a building log for her.

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  12. exzealot

    exzealot Member

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    Josef,

    Beautiful ship so far! What did you use to fill in the hull?

    Ken
  13. romfolmar

    romfolmar New Member

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    What kind of tape are you using to hold the parts down?
  14. B-Manic

    B-Manic Peripheral Visionary

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    Looks very good. The use of the steel rod with the clamps is an excellent idea thanks. :)
  15. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    @kenlwest:
    The putty I used, was simple acrylic putty on waterbase. The only place where I used it, was the underwater area to smooth the first planking a little bit. But beforeusing the body filler, I sealed the paper with a special kind of colorless parquet floor paint.

    @romfolmar:
    This is standard Tamyia masking tape. It is very good, because you can peel it down even from paper without destroying the surface. I used it also to cover the guns in the gunwhales and to protect them against coming airbrush actions (paint-mist).

    @B-Manic:
    First I also thought it would be a good idea, but the goal was not reached in a perfect way. So I had to correct the straightness of the body with some brutal force.

    Kind regards
    Josef
  16. Nemesis7485

    Nemesis7485 Member

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    What a stunning looking model already. Excellent work.

    I'm looking forward to seeing how you tackle the rigging on this kit.
  17. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    @Nemesis7485: Thank you! The time for the rigging will come, but I think it will be end of next year.

    To get the right position for the gunwales I used transparent airbrush masking film and mark the positions with a needle.

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    Transfer of the pinholes to the cover plate and cutting with a sharp knife.

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    For the mounting of the cover panels I used double adhesive film.

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    To make the panels soft and round I use some round wooden tools and much force. The underlayment for this work is a piece of felt.

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    Next session I will show the painting of the body.

    Kind regards
    Josef
  18. Tunny

    Tunny Papermodeler

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    Thanks for your post, master :thumb:
  19. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hi, Tunny ... don't mention! Have some more ...

    The painting for one side (port side) is ready. After making the coloring with airbrush I used dry brushing and washing to reach a smart weathered effect. The colors were used after RAL standard (Yellow - RAL 1017, Red - RAL 3011, Black - RAL 8022). After finishing the enhancement of the decorative battens, I will show you the result at next session (and of course I made the enhancements with paper).

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    Servus
    Josef
  20. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    Amazing! Even your extreme closeups look like the real thing! I am thrilled to see this project through to its finish.
    Thank you ;)
    Bruce
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