HMS Glowworm

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by barry, Oct 4, 2005.

  1. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Time for a change from staring at the computer screen trying to design things did a bit to Glowworm instead. I decided to convert it to waterline it looks like it will work not a lot done but it's a start and at least it's a beautiful design as always from Gremir.

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  2. bfam4t6

    bfam4t6 Member

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    Awesome choice Barry. Gremir models are great. I love to watch you ship guys make these monstrous boats so keep us posted! Your work is always a treat to see.
  3. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Glowworm decks

    Conversion complete there appears to be a slight error on the bow middle strengthener it is not much but the leading 2 slots appear to be misaligned just check which side is correct and use that to cut the slots. Otherwise perfect fit. I have managed to slightly misalign the aft gun pit a bit of trimming will put it right, if I had not done the conversion it would have fitted perfectly.

    It is worth taking a lot of time to cut the circular gun pits as they will make or break the look of the model. Just make very small incisions until it drops out do not pull it out in haste or frustration it takes ages.


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  4. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Nice start, Barry! :smile:

    I've been running around with work and all the last few days, but what a treat to return to!

    Looking forward to more photos when you can, mate.

    Cheers!

    Jim
  5. barry

    barry Active Member

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    anchor deck

    Why make life difficult when with a minimum of effort you can make it downright impossible. The bits were falling off as fast as I put them on. Next I have to paint it, that could be a laugh but I did buy some paint


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  6. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Anchor deck painted

    First time I have tried this I used Revel paint. The colour came out a bit darker than I had hoped and of course made me realise how much painting will be involved to keep the overall effect. The camera shows I knocked a couple bits out of place as well. In reality I think lumps on the deck this size would need hurdling skills. By the way if you are putting in stanchions remember to punch the holes before slapping paint on.

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  7. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Hi, Barry! :smile:

    Are those little gratings or whatever you call those tiny rectangular pieces part of the kit? If they are, or even if they aren't, that' s very nice detail. I am not that familiar with this class of ship, but I imagine those are a distinctive feature to the foredeck for the gun emplacement. I was wondering why you didn't try to paint them before gluing them to the deck at the indicated locations. I try to do that to at least cover the edges which are uncolored, but it's a rather tedious process with some many parts.

    The Revell paints I am familiar with are enamels and come in various shades and colors, flat and some glossy. I can't tell which type you used, it almost has a satin finish to it, but your choice is probably best because when you try to paint a large area with acrylics you have to be so very careful not to put too much paint down or it affects the paper. I like acrylics only for the lack of fumes from the paint, but being water based presents it's own set of problems when painting a large area. Enamels from Revell have always gone on heavier than I like when using a brush, particularly over a large area where the brush marks seems to show up more if you don't apply it using a spray gun. I imagine spray painting would probably work best to put fine coats down, but I've not tried to spray paint paper yet and you would have to carefully mask or put some indication on the deck where the other parts where parts go so as to not loose the locations. You are probably right, you'll now have to paint the rest of the weather deck with the same color to give the right effect overall, but it should work out fine as I see what you did to the foredeck. You don't seem to suffer the same problem I do with the brush marks in using Revell enamels. If it's too glossy for the effect you are looking for maybe a light coat of flat matte will help even out the effect, but as I mentioned earlier, easy does it to avoid affecting the paper. I've not tried them but Humbrol paints, even Tamiya, seem to have a finer pigment to them but at this scale it might not make much difference save the finer pigments seem to give an more even coat even when brushed on. Mind you, I don't think there is anything wrong with what your foredeck looks like, it's coming out great, just something to keep in mind when choosing paint brands for smaller scaled models or parts.

    It is obvious to me from the photos that this is a very detailed model, lots of little things to deal with, but I know you are doing this design justice. It looks great so far, even if you seem to question the color of the foredeck, because once you do the rest of the deck the same color it will not make much difference.

    Good tip about the stanchion locations! I was working on my pinrails on Constitution and used small pin holes for the belaying pin locations...they quickly disappeared once I painted the parts and had to re-establish the holes for the pins. :?

    As usual, looking great, mate. Can't wait to see more when you can!

    Cheers!

    Jim
  8. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Foredeck

    Hu Jim
    No the kit does not call for anything so fiddly

    It's an attempt to do what Orion did with his fore decks etc it's all made from bits of wire more than likely well over size they are supposed represent foot holds on the deck. I guess that translates into footholds round the gun tub.

    The reason for painting them over is that there is tons of nasty glue marks due to my dodgy fingers In real life they do not look quite so obstructive. However nothing is stuck down so at least I can redo the decks if it looks a mess.

    Why Revell paint, availability at my local model shop NO Humbrol which I would have preferred.
  9. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Hi, Barry! :smile:

    Oh, I understand now...nice bit of fiddly that you added!
    I wonder if it would adhere better if they were balsa or matchstick slints? I would think thin slices of carboard, painted up first to give it some stiffness, might work as well.

    Is the Revell paint the "Model Master" brand name? If I recall that has a finer grain of pigment than the normal brand, but you have to settle on what is in the shop...at least you have a local shop, the closest near me I think is the one in Mineola (Willis Hobby), which technically is not to far (about a half hour's drive or so), but I seldom have free time to visit them as I could easily spend all day just browsing the place! There was a small shop just down the road, specialized in slot car racing, but last time I looked it was replaced by some dry cleaning place. :mad: So, I tend to do a bit of shopping on line, but there's the postage that increases the cost and I prefer seeing what I'm buying first hand before making the purchase, so guess I'll just have to abandon the wife and child some afternoon and visit Willis. :grin:

    More when you can, mate, she's really looking good!

    Cheers!

    Jim
  10. cwm

    cwm New Member

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    Looking good Barry more pictures please .......
  11. Orion

    Orion Member

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    Hi Barry , Hi All

    If it`s not too late, taste to polish on "block" with abrasive paper.
    Level him and it will be super , because it`s "too high".
    Building " it goes" You great, I`m think.

    I read from curiosity history of this ship.
    Ramming German battleship "Hipper",
    from one's crew commander Lt Cdr Roope were very heroic together.
    So these his word (famous order): "Stand by to ram" !!!

    I wait on more far description and pictures
  12. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Glowworm footholds

    Thanks Orion I tried the sanding trick but I had used steel wire I had not stuck anything down because I was not too happy with things, so noting the embossing on your gun shields I decided it was probably a better way. I tried using heavy cardboard but the needle made little impression so I used medium weight using the window as a light box I traced the outlines throgh then embossed it and stuck it heavyweight board. the height looked about right but it could not be seen so I scraped some graphite of a soft pencil onto some scrap rubbed it about a bit otherwise you get too much on and gently rubbed over the pattern it seems to have worked. It seems a lot of trouble over something so small but it is such a beautiful kit I thought it was worth trying as it is a large feature on the overall design. I had to take the pic out of focus to even show the detail.

    [​IMG]

    In the real world it shows well enough.

    barry
  13. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Decks

    Embossing is a damn site quicker than sticking bits on it is effective in that there is no glue stuck all over the deck and the graphite makes it look a bit scuffed.

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    I was (still am) thinking seriously about leaving the hull sides till last in order to get at the boat and mast rigging. The decks will have to sit under some weights tonight to flatten out the non pva glue I have is splitting apart too easily so it was back to wet stuff.

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    trying to prove the lines are fairly unobtrusive and show the excellent fit of the hull formers no sanding required apart from the stem to get a tight join.
  14. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    IMHO - it's worth investing in a proper embossing tool(s) if you're going to do
    serious amounts of embossing.

    There was a thread in the armoured area about embossing rivets which suggests
    a technique so that you don't have to use a light box.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  15. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Cool beans, Barry! :smile:

    That embossing looks really great! I wish I could see it personally, but the photos show an entirely subtle yet nice detail. I think it's worth the effort, and as you continue I'm sure you're finding it goes faster once you're comfortable with the technique.

    She's becoming more attractive with each update.

    Looking forward to more, mate!

    Cheers!

    Jim
  16. barry

    barry Active Member

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    B gun platform

    Hi All

    Very slow progress on this one the fit of the parts is truly excellent so if there are mistakes they are mine. i could say I need a better brush for touching up but it's more the shakes and cold weather. The girder strengthening is very straight forward without all the difficult cross halved joints.

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    I need to borrow your hands and eyes Jim

    Just as a tip I have at last found a superglue I can use it's the gel variety to stick the handrails I just gently pushed the supports into the nozzle. It also gives you just enough time to position the rail.
  17. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Sorry, Bazzer, I need them right now. ;-)

    That railing came out great, mate!

    Looking forward to more when you can. I like the dog ties you added to the watertight door.

    Cheers!
    Jim
  18. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Glowworm bridge

    Not a lot done but it is an interesting construction nothing glued down as yet still got to add all the bits of wire etc. It is a model you need to take time over.

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  19. barry

    barry Active Member

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    bridge

    Fit is great my gluing is a bit off on the bridge still haveto add more rails before final assembly and maybe try to mix a better touch up colour. The final gluing of all the bridge parts will require a steady hand I think.

    I hate flash photos.


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    barry
  20. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Looking good Barry!

    One tip I got from Rob Carleen(46rob) recently...........on using super glue he told me to get some of the accelerator and try it. I figured that with super glue(I too use the thick) that you would not really need it. WRONG! I tell you what... this is the best tip I've gotten so far. This stuff makes super glue SUPER. You can just spray(mine comes in a pump bottle) it on the parts after gluing and BAM! it's stuck and dry, or you can put glue on one part spray the other and have enought time to get it placed right.

    So far this stuff has not effected my inks and is gone when dry. I love it!

    www.bsiadhesives.com

    Give it a try.

    john