HMS Eskimo designing ships for dummys

Darwin

Member
This has been fun watching your alpha build come together. It makes me feel better knowing that I'm not the only one that has to go back to the drawing board occasionally (still a few pieces of the Blue that I am still scratching my head over how I managed to get so flippin' far off on the first draw). When you get ready for some beta builders..... (hint, hint, grovel, grovel).
 
Re: Eskimo guns

barry said:
Hi All

Finally could not stand those guns anymore, looked more like wacky baccy rollies, so I used John's method of rolling tubes round a wire but left the wire as the barrel they look a bit skinny (in spite of the fact they are as near as dammit the right guage) but a lot more elegant than before. Added the rest of the ventilators and a couple more carley floats so a couple more pics. Then its two more winches and on to the rigging and masts. Oh Joy !!!!!!!


barry

Barry,

You're barrel technique looks similar to what I did on myDreadnought, although I wasn't completely happy with the results. I was satisfied as it was a first attempt. However, rather than wire, I stretched out paper clips and snipped the staright portions to the desired length. The paper clip tended to be rather sturdy and didn't flex or bend (don't take this as a criticism of your wonderful build). Just thought I would toss this idea out.

Cheers,
Brad
 

barry

Active Member
Rigging failed experiment

A bit of a failure tale tonight I tried to use the wire inside a computer flat cable (there are about 12 wires to the strand) it is a good size for rigging but I did it arse backwards. Comes down to not thinking enough before starting. I could not get any tension onto the rigging because it does not adhere well to card what I should have done was to have threaded it through the decks where necessary and pulled it up to the mast spar and tied it off. Oh well you can't win them all.I should think everyone else here knows this anyway 10' rule applies again.


PIC_0037a.jpg


Rigging attached to spar bit clumsy

PIC_0039.jpg


Shows the slack

PIC_0040.jpg


Shall we call it an Atlantic gale or two

having noticed with glaring eye of the camera that I had bent he spar trying i got a little more tension back by straightening it

@Brad

Funny never have paper clips around these days I suppose it's quitting work but it's a good source, they would be a bit big on this one I think.

After this I am going to have a rest and build Gloworm from Gremir and probably try designing a cargo ship for a change from warships Arizona to see the winter out. Then maybe design a RN sloop. I'm beginning to sound like Tim.

What glue do you guys use for sticking filament fishing line to spars ?

barry
 

barry

Active Member
Rigging failed experiment

A bit of a failure tale tonight I tried to use the wire inside a computer flat cable (there are about 12 wires to the strand) it is a good size for rigging but I did it arse backwards. Comes down to not thinking enough before starting. I could not get any tension onto the rigging because it does not adhere well to card what I should have done was to have threaded it through the decks where necessary and pulled it up to the mast spar and tied it off. Oh well you can't win them all.I should think everyone else here knows this anyway 10' rule applies again.


PIC_0037a.jpg


Rigging attached to spar bit clumsy

PIC_0039.jpg


Shows the slack

PIC_0040.jpg


Shall we call it an Atlantic gale or two

having noticed with glaring eye of the camera that I had bent he spar trying i got a little more tension back by straightening it

@Brad

Funny never have paper clips around these days I suppose it's quitting work but it's a good source, they would be a bit big on this one I think.

After this I am going to have a rest and build Gloworm from Gremir and probably try designing a cargo ship for a change from warships Arizona to see the winter out. Then maybe design a RN sloop. I'm beginning to sound like Tim.

What glue do you guys use for sticking filament fishing line to spars ?

barry
 

Bowdenja

Active Member
Hey Brad,

I use the paper clip trick alot...........they are easy to get........... got to go the Office Manager just showed up.........

What. :shock: .........NO..... I haven't been taking office supplies home.........It must be someone else.........yeah that's it, someone else...ask Harvey, you know he's always sneaking around. :?

Oh....... by the way I need some more paper clips......you know both sizes, the big ones and the little ones. Yeah couple boxes be enough. 8)
 

Bowdenja

Active Member
Hey Brad,

I use the paper clip trick alot...........they are easy to get........... got to go the Office Manager just showed up.........

What. :shock: .........NO..... I haven't been taking office supplies home.........It must be someone else.........yeah that's it, someone else...ask Harvey, you know he's always sneaking around. :?

Oh....... by the way I need some more paper clips......you know both sizes, the big ones and the little ones. Yeah couple boxes be enough. 8)
 

Bowdenja

Active Member
barry,

I'm interested in the glue too!

I've tried super glue........the thick kind you get from the model shop, and have some success, mostly stick but no stick sometimes. Very aggrivating.

Has anyone tried Contact cement?
 

Bowdenja

Active Member
barry,

I'm interested in the glue too!

I've tried super glue........the thick kind you get from the model shop, and have some success, mostly stick but no stick sometimes. Very aggrivating.

Has anyone tried Contact cement?
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
Hey, Guys! :D

I've been using florist wire quite a bit lately for this sort of stuff...it's available in craft stores in various sizes and finishes...I get my from my Brother-in-law who has a florist shop, I just visit and take a handfull or two from the work stations, usually in guages 24 and 30 or so. It's finished in dark green, but it takes to a coat of paint nicely. Good thing about them, it bends easily, but is otherwise not too soft (but softer than brass). It works great as a core to rolled paper tubes and is just the right stuff for smaller wire parts, like the wire for landing gear, small barrels, yardarms and the like.

I have tried a few times but just can't seem to get the hand of using that monofilament line. Maybe it's something about the type of material it is made from, but it doesn't seem to tie up very well, at least not the thicker stuff, and I'll be darned if I can find the right glue to use with it. I've tried the stuff that is used to hem pants and skirts, the clear monofilament thread, and although a bit easier to tie knot with because it's thinner, it still defies being glued. Of course, most rigging requires you use a knot rather than rely upon just gluing in place, but glue helps keep things in place when you're done. This is why I've settled on using just fly tying silk (besides it comes in the thinnest sizes of all the threads I've come across, besides surgical thread) and lightly waxed poly thread, the type that says it's polished so there is no fuzz, both of which come in a variety of colors and sizes. If you can find the monofilament thread you should also be able to find some of the fly tying silk too, and it's well worth the search. BTW, the silk thread ties up wonderfully (as you would expect) and glues up nice with PVA or CA glue...I often use a touch of CA on the threads end to fashion a make shift "needle" to help thread the line through holes and the like.

I rather doubt contact cement, in the true sense, is a good idea since it is based on you having glued up both the thread and the place you will be gluing it to before hand, and letting it set a bit before joining the two. I don't know about UHU or Ambroid cement (what are they, the "celluoid" cements?) but something tells me I didn't have good success with that either, probably too stringey to work with.

I wish I had an answer for the monofilament, and I'm sure someone out there has had a better experience than I, so maybe they can chime in and tell me what I've been doing wrong. :D

As always, your build of Eskimo is looking better and better, Barry, despite your disappointment with the computer wire. I fear the rigging you are looking for probably required the belaying points on the deck to be done while you were building up the house, like making holes for the wire ends and knotting them inside the hull to secure them in place. How about trying that hole in the deck idea anyway and use a drop ofCA glue on the end of a pin to apply it carefully. Looks like she is just about finished! More photos when you can, please. :wink:

Cheers!

Jim
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
Hey, Guys! :D

I've been using florist wire quite a bit lately for this sort of stuff...it's available in craft stores in various sizes and finishes...I get my from my Brother-in-law who has a florist shop, I just visit and take a handfull or two from the work stations, usually in guages 24 and 30 or so. It's finished in dark green, but it takes to a coat of paint nicely. Good thing about them, it bends easily, but is otherwise not too soft (but softer than brass). It works great as a core to rolled paper tubes and is just the right stuff for smaller wire parts, like the wire for landing gear, small barrels, yardarms and the like.

I have tried a few times but just can't seem to get the hand of using that monofilament line. Maybe it's something about the type of material it is made from, but it doesn't seem to tie up very well, at least not the thicker stuff, and I'll be darned if I can find the right glue to use with it. I've tried the stuff that is used to hem pants and skirts, the clear monofilament thread, and although a bit easier to tie knot with because it's thinner, it still defies being glued. Of course, most rigging requires you use a knot rather than rely upon just gluing in place, but glue helps keep things in place when you're done. This is why I've settled on using just fly tying silk (besides it comes in the thinnest sizes of all the threads I've come across, besides surgical thread) and lightly waxed poly thread, the type that says it's polished so there is no fuzz, both of which come in a variety of colors and sizes. If you can find the monofilament thread you should also be able to find some of the fly tying silk too, and it's well worth the search. BTW, the silk thread ties up wonderfully (as you would expect) and glues up nice with PVA or CA glue...I often use a touch of CA on the threads end to fashion a make shift "needle" to help thread the line through holes and the like.

I rather doubt contact cement, in the true sense, is a good idea since it is based on you having glued up both the thread and the place you will be gluing it to before hand, and letting it set a bit before joining the two. I don't know about UHU or Ambroid cement (what are they, the "celluoid" cements?) but something tells me I didn't have good success with that either, probably too stringey to work with.

I wish I had an answer for the monofilament, and I'm sure someone out there has had a better experience than I, so maybe they can chime in and tell me what I've been doing wrong. :D

As always, your build of Eskimo is looking better and better, Barry, despite your disappointment with the computer wire. I fear the rigging you are looking for probably required the belaying points on the deck to be done while you were building up the house, like making holes for the wire ends and knotting them inside the hull to secure them in place. How about trying that hole in the deck idea anyway and use a drop ofCA glue on the end of a pin to apply it carefully. Looks like she is just about finished! More photos when you can, please. :wink:

Cheers!

Jim
 

barry

Active Member
Eskimo rigging

No lets just rip it all off and start again !!!

Still not perfect but better than the last try should have accepted soldering the spars instead of trying to glue steel to copper, the lack of strength of thin copper would have been better. Looks alright from some angles.

Needs a few more strands on the aft mast but I have added more glue and I hope it will firm up a bit.

PIC_0047.jpg


PIC_0045.jpg


PIC_0046.jpg



Must get a notebook and write down all the mistakes I make cos I forget them too easily. Doing this job I realise my depth vision is going off a bit.

Did use superglue to tag the cotton to the spars and I am still not stuck to the deck. Got to find a cheap flyswatter for some mesh.

barry
 

barry

Active Member
Eskimo rigging

No lets just rip it all off and start again !!!

Still not perfect but better than the last try should have accepted soldering the spars instead of trying to glue steel to copper, the lack of strength of thin copper would have been better. Looks alright from some angles.

Needs a few more strands on the aft mast but I have added more glue and I hope it will firm up a bit.

PIC_0047.jpg


PIC_0045.jpg


PIC_0046.jpg



Must get a notebook and write down all the mistakes I make cos I forget them too easily. Doing this job I realise my depth vision is going off a bit.

Did use superglue to tag the cotton to the spars and I am still not stuck to the deck. Got to find a cheap flyswatter for some mesh.

barry
 

emayday

New Member
Greetings,

On my 1/700 Dreadnought, I used invisible nylon thread held by Loctite super glue, then painted, and in this instance, it seemed to work for me.
I always thought super glue was super glue and used the cheep stuff for ages. Tried Loctite (Home Depot), and it really made a difference.
 

emayday

New Member
Greetings,

On my 1/700 Dreadnought, I used invisible nylon thread held by Loctite super glue, then painted, and in this instance, it seemed to work for me.
I always thought super glue was super glue and used the cheep stuff for ages. Tried Loctite (Home Depot), and it really made a difference.
 

barry

Active Member
Eskimo

This is as far as I go now, I have got to the stage where I am doing damage more than improving the model, the spars are bent etc and I am destroying the rigging. Added the jolly boat and the torpedo cranes and took the rigging to my limit. Getting the tripod effect on the connection to C gun took forever.

I will probably try for the funnel caps and just in case a couple of pics.

It might be good to convert to 1/200th for the next attempt but that would take much more detail so that's the card model for now.


PIC_0048.jpg


PIC_0049.jpg


PIC_0050.jpg


I enjoyed building Eskimo.

@emayday

Thanks for the tip on superglue.
barry
 

barry

Active Member
Eskimo

This is as far as I go now, I have got to the stage where I am doing damage more than improving the model, the spars are bent etc and I am destroying the rigging. Added the jolly boat and the torpedo cranes and took the rigging to my limit. Getting the tripod effect on the connection to C gun took forever.

I will probably try for the funnel caps and just in case a couple of pics.

It might be good to convert to 1/200th for the next attempt but that would take much more detail so that's the card model for now.


PIC_0048.jpg


PIC_0049.jpg


PIC_0050.jpg


I enjoyed building Eskimo.

@emayday

Thanks for the tip on superglue.
barry
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
And we all enjoyed watching you build her, Barry! :D

A great model, hard to believe this is your first design, actually. I'm sure you learned a lot from the experience, as did we, and it has enbodened my thoughts of trying to design a ship myself...not sure when or what, but now I see it is within the realm of my design skills, which is to say I have never designed anything, but I think now, thanks to you and this thread, that I can...Thanks!

I am looking forward to whatever your next design challenge will be!

Cheers!

Jim
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
And we all enjoyed watching you build her, Barry! :D

A great model, hard to believe this is your first design, actually. I'm sure you learned a lot from the experience, as did we, and it has enbodened my thoughts of trying to design a ship myself...not sure when or what, but now I see it is within the realm of my design skills, which is to say I have never designed anything, but I think now, thanks to you and this thread, that I can...Thanks!

I am looking forward to whatever your next design challenge will be!

Cheers!

Jim
 

emayday

New Member
Ditto here Barry,

Although I came in late as a new member, I can appreciate the complexity of taking on one's own design. Still WAY over my head. After I put together several package builds mabe I'll be brave enough to take on the old tin can I served on.......Ed
 

emayday

New Member
Ditto here Barry,

Although I came in late as a new member, I can appreciate the complexity of taking on one's own design. Still WAY over my head. After I put together several package builds mabe I'll be brave enough to take on the old tin can I served on.......Ed
 
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