Hey everyone, let's play a game of FIND THE DECODER!

[Spawn of Chaos]

I (99.999%) completed my first EVER single-handed DCC conversion last night!

Save one wire, but that's easy to fix (lol wrong spot...)

 

[EsPeeMEC]

Just one question:

Does the body shell fit back on, or are you going to run it as a "mule"?

 

[rogerw]

Nope cant find it, you did a good job of hiding it:mrgreen:

 

[DeckRoid]

Here is my guess... Here


George

 

[Squidbait]

What's the deal with all the banana plugs?

 

[Spawn of Chaos]

And Roid is...WRONG!

Look for blue...

The plugs are so I can remove the decoder and plug those together in the right spots and make it run DC without having to re-rewire it lol

BTW the one wire is fixed.

In fact, what Roid circled was the wire that was in the wrong spot!

 

[tetters]

Yeah its the blue top center. Where the pin plus is located. Its not that hard to spot really.

 

[EsPeeMEC]

Here's an alternative way of wiring and fitting decoders - I use a plug and socket with standardised wiring for the decoder. The white block is a 4-way plug & socket but an 8-way one would deal with lighting. This is in an ALCO SD40T-2 model

If I want, or need, to run the loco in DC-only mode all I have to do is unplug the decoder and fit the jumper unit instead. (It also means that I can upgrade decoders relatively easily in the future.)

 

[Squidbait]

I think it would make more sense to buy a package of 8-pin plug/sockets (about $5 for 4). That way you can swap the decoder into other units (if need be) and you have a nice, tidy harness to the loco.

 

[Spawn of Chaos]

Someone found it, yay! lol

Tetters gets a cookie!

(had to do it)

And yes, I suppose it would, but this loco is one of the ancient Athearns, plus it has 2 motors (so don't go yelling at me about the DH123AT drop-in decoder lol), so I had to come up with something else...the system doesn't work, it won't fit into the shell in "DC mode." I'm just going to have to make it run DCC-only lol...