Help with new layout

Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by ript73, Aug 11, 2005.

  1. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    Hello all. I had posted this pic as a reply to one of my posts in the HO scale forum before seeing that I should've posted it here instead.

    I'm a complete newbie to model railroads and after doing some searching and reading on these forums, I see alot of awesome designs and layouts that have really piqued(sp?) my interest.

    I'm mostly interested in the scenery/layout, but in the end I'd like a functional and realistic layout that a train can actually run on. I'd like to have 2 trains running on the track as well.

    Below is the post to the layout I have to work with and this is where I could use some suggestions/ideas on how to lay it all out. Inclines and bridges would be nice to have and I also have coming a realistic water scene from woodlandscenics.com so having a river or something in the layout could be a possibility. I'm looking at the modern era, maybe 80's-90's style. I've got some farm sceneries coming as well.

    Thanks!
    http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?p=157411#post157411
  2. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

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    Are there any doors or windows in the space to deal with? I would suggest going around the walls. The alcove is probably not very usefull, it appears to be only 3 feet wide, which is about adequate for an aisle.
  3. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    There are no doors or windows. This isn't an entire room, just a section of the basement that I can utilize the entire space I have pictured for the base of the model. The L wraps around the wall.

    Thanks!
  4. KCS

    KCS Member

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    I would have to agree with everyone on that other thread. Don't even use that Power-Loc track as well as E-Z. If you want to start out with a "set" then I would recommend Kato's unitrack sets. They are much better made and last some much longer. I bought a bunch of that power-loc track about 3 & 1/2 years ago for my personal home layout and now it's falling apart. I've had to spike a lot of it back together because it's cheap. Their locomotives are the pits too. A lot of jerking, starting, stopping, doesn't want to run half the time. I stopped messing with that what I call "trash." It's better to buy some good quality stuff from the beginning and it will save you much trouble in the long run.
  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

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    You say that you are planning to run 80s and 90s trains. Rolling stock in the modern era starts to get pretty long - a 22" radius (maximum for 4' benchwork) is pretty tight for some of the longer cars like autoracks, intermodals, and oversize boxcars.

    Andrew
  6. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

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    I'm building an "L" shaped layout, just a little smaller overall than yours, that also has a 4' front-to-back reach. You indicated that the layout wraps around a brick wall. I'd reduce the 4' to 3' max unless you can get behind it. MOst will tell you 2' max. My entire layout is on rolling casters so I can move it out from the wall to get behind it. Even so, I've just finished laying track and am already lamenting my decision to go with a reach this big.
    Doc
  7. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I really like the idea of having it on rolling casters. I think I'm going to try that. Haven't even started building it or received any modeling stuff yet, so I've got along ways to go ;)
  8. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

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    Here's a pic of what I did for adjustable rolling casters.
    Doc

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  9. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    Thanks for the pic, Doc. I'd be really interested to see your track layout if you've got a picture of it.

    Thanks!
  10. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

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    Click HERE to visit my Railimages.com page. It includes a trackplan as well as some other stuff I've worked on.
    Doc
  11. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    I've downloaded the Atlas RTS program and played around a bit. I've come up with the following for the start of a layout. If anyone can add to it or come up with a better way for what space I have to work with, it'd be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

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  12. Tileguy

    Tileguy Member

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    Here is one way to get some elevation and eliminate that straightline tracking along the back wall.

    Just a thought for you to kick around :)

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  13. cidchase

    cidchase Active Member

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    Hi rip, :wave: :wave:

    You can't realistically work on the back without some access holes.
    I would reconsider the L-shape and go "around the walls".

    30" reach is a max for me. You seem like you are interested in the
    modeling aspect and would like more realism in the layout. The
    rectangular layout lets you have wider radius curves and gives you
    more useable area. Just my opinion :D :D

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  14. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    Thanks for the input. The back of the L shaped layout is a brick wall, however from Doc Holliday's suggestion, I will be putting it on rolling casters so I can pull it away from the wall to get to the back. I only have one side of the room to work with, so doing the best I can.

    I've done some remeasuring and came up with some new dimensions to work with. Access holes can be put in if need be, but I think I'll still have the entire base able to roll away from the wall easily.

    Would like some ideas on what I can do with this as far as track design/layout. I'd like a railyard and a town and mountain area with possibly a 2nd layer with bridges/tunnels and 2 trains able to run.

    Thanks!

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  15. theBear

    theBear Member

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    You might also consider visiting www.thortrains.com

    He is a Gauge member and has a large selection of layout plans that can provide a starting point.

    There is also 101 TRACKPLANS For Model Railroaders by Linn H. Westcott and published by Model Railroader. There are a number in that book that could serve as a starting point.

    I remembered a layout from the website that just might fit the space it is this one: http://www.thortrains.net/4holaye.html once again a starting point.
  16. ript73

    ript73 New Member

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    Thanks for the link. I checked it out and have started the design. I've got my outside track layed. Still trying to figure out how to get some inside rails going.

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  17. TrainClown

    TrainClown Member

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    Hello there,

    I just gots to have a go at designing you a track plan. I sees a space and I gits all itchyfied.:eek: ;)

    Give me a day or so and I'll come up with something fer yer eyes to gander at.:rolleyes:

    Always thinkin' :confused: :sleeping:

    TrainClown :wave:
  18. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

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    What other features do you want? Industries in town? Servicing in the yard for diesels?

    As you start to put down the features that you want, making a track plan becomes easier, as those features start taking real estate.

    Andrew
  19. theBear

    theBear Member

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  20. TrainClown

    TrainClown Member

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    Howdy again,

    This here is a variation on the ol' "Dog Bone" design. You can see the waterfront on the left, could be a river or the sea, that details up to you. This lends to some fun building some ship models for your port. Could be a busy place with a fish packing plant and a terminal for ore cars. Lots of spurs to accommodate biz along the line. You will notice I like to keep the track away from the edge of the table, this helps keep your engines and rolling stock from doing a face plant on the floor.

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