HECHT/"PIKE".. 1/25 GPM kit

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by eatcrow2, Mar 18, 2007.

  1. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    Received these two kits in the mail, and decided to start on the Hecht first.. Here's a brief history.

    Hecht (Pike)

    These 3-man midget-submarines were of type XXVII of which 53 (U-2111 - U-2113 and U-2251 - U-2300) were commissioned into the Kriegsmarine. Designed in 1944 to attach limpet mines to ships at anchor but the vessel was required to do more tasks which forced a change in design which proved unsatisfactory in most aspects.

    This boat really had too limited range (78 miles at 3 knots surfaced and 40 miles at 6 knots submerged) for successful torpedo attacks. The first of 53 boats was delivered from Germaniawerft in Kiel, in May 1944 and 3 of these boats were outfitted with one magnetic mine holder instead of a torpedo but none of those saw action. The Hecht boats were only used for training purposes.

    Two photos show the covers and the parts for the torpedo. This will be big model..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  2. gofficfool

    gofficfool Member

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    hi...

    will watch this thread with intrest as i've been drooling over those two for a little while........... enjoy

    mark
  3. cjwalas

    cjwalas Member

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    I've also been debating getting these. Please let us know how the kit goes together! Looking forward to this one!
    Chris
  4. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    Torpedo

    Last night I got into working on the Torpedo. So far the fit of all the parts has been excellent. Another thing to note, is that there are written English instructions, that go along with the diagrams.. All shading and weathering is done with pastel chalks.

    Main body..
    [​IMG]

    Tail fins added..
    [​IMG]

    added the props..
    [​IMG]

    finished nose painted with brass enamel..
    [​IMG]

    completed torpedo..
    [​IMG]
  5. cdcoyle

    cdcoyle Member

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    Looks great, Peter!
  6. cjwalas

    cjwalas Member

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    It does indeed look great! Any guess as to how long the finished model will be?
    Chris
  7. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    Thanks people for the comments..

    Chris.. It'll be about 14" long, and roughly sitting in it's cradle, maybe 4" high..
  8. gofficfool

    gofficfool Member

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    i'm droolin more!

    tidy build!!! paypal may be getting some exercise soon :)

    mark
  9. cjwalas

    cjwalas Member

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    Should be a great display piece!
    Chris
  10. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    looks super! How could you NOT do the cool sharks mouth one first? My son would still be whining about it ;)
    Chris
  11. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    I always save the best for last...:) Actually, I wasn't into doing two torpedos until I saw how the fit would go on the other one..
  12. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

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    Yes, that is an awfully sharp looking torpedo, Peter!
    If it any indication, the "U Boots" will both be great!

    Very nice work, Peter!

    Russell
  13. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    cradle/base

    Figured I would make up the cradle that holds the Sub, if for no other reason then to keep my torpedo from rolling on the floor while I'm building the rest of the model. Left the colors as they are.. Sort of has a quarried stone look to it as is, and looks as if it would hold a exhibit this size if in a park or museum. It'll look better once I get a couple of light coats of "Future" on it.

    cradle parts..
    [​IMG]

    finished..
    [​IMG]

    Holding torpedo..
    [​IMG]
  14. BARX2

    BARX2 Member

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    Looks great. How do you apply the Future on the paper? I'd be afraid of ruining the color or warping the paper.
  15. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    I use an airbrush with a old tip that is for nothing else other than applying Future. Doing light coats until I get the look I want. You can always add more coats, but your sort of stuck with what you have if it's applied too heavy, though I guess you could spray a flat coat over it. Future for me helps seal in the pastel chalks I use for weathering, plus takes away from that dead flat look of the paper.. A matter of personal preference for me..Experiment on something other then a model you have spent upteen hours on...
    For airbrush clean-up, I'll shoot some ammonia thru the brush followed, by warn soapy water.. Plus a perk is that the ammonia will give you a quick wake-up if your starting to nod off at the workbench..;-)
  16. BARX2

    BARX2 Member

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    Thanks for the tip. Will Krylon clear acrylic work just as well?
  17. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    It should.. I pre-spray a flat clear coat from a can, on all the pages before starting the model, as it helps in cleaning up excess glue without smearing the ink on the model.. I use a clear spray from work, that we use to go over chalk lines so they don't get rubbed out from walking on them.. I would always test on something before hand, especially if it's a product I haven't used before..
  18. eatcrow2

    eatcrow2 Member

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    nose

    Finished the nose piece.. Once the parts were put together, I coated the inside of the cone with a couple of layers of white glue to sort of weld the parts together..

    nose parts..
    [​IMG]

    finished...
    [​IMG]
  19. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    Certainly seems to - Oz is a Future-free zone - but I can buy Krylon.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  20. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

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    Please don't feed me straight lines like this...

    So Austrailia has no future then...

    Sorry my smartarse side just couldn't pass that one up. ;-)