Halinski Pz Kpfw II Ausf C build thread

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by cgutzmer, Nov 2, 2007.

  1. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    Toothpicks aren't quite strong enough for the job and are a bit thick. The easiest way to do this is to use the pins as a template (but don't glue the pins in) when you fold the track parts. It helps to use another link to space the pin away from the centre part of the links so the links will fit together correctly. Once you've got the link folded and glued pull the pins out.

    When you've finished all the links all you have to do is push the track links together and slide the pins in. If you glue the pin only on the outer part of the hinge the links will be free to move.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  2. josve

    josve Active Member

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    For linking tracks together I use straight brasswire or piano thread in 0,5mm

    All my builds is located here Chris :)
    Workshop
  3. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Very small update. I have been cutting out formers. My ^&%#*&( finger hurts. I have about 8 or so cut out. About that many left.

    I wanted to thank Russell (Amazyah) for turning me onto scalpels. I can cut a line straight as heck with a scalpel - cant at all with an excel blade. I think the difference is how its held. A scalpel is held with a low angle of attack to the paper. The excel (xacto) type blade is held more up and down. At least that how I did it. It follows a much better line this way. The scalpel doesnt seem as good for cutting circles though. Flexes too much.

    Also the handle is not very ergonomical. Might be that I am just pressing too hard though (always had a tendency to do that!) I am using the standard flat handle. It could use some cushion along the top.

    I will update with pics when I have the formers glued up!

    Gonna go look at your site again Johnny - I really gotta find your link tutorial :)
    Chris
  4. Clashster

    Clashster Member

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    Can't believe you are joining the armor ranks again, Chris! Already got some great ideas from the discussion going on here! Looking forward to your build, this is one of the many I have in my stack... Besides, making individual track links builds character!
  5. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I already have enough character from the last one ;) At the rate I am going I will have the formers done in a week or two! heh heh
    Chris
  6. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

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    It's the highly detailed treads that have always put me off doing a tank, but at the same time, they make me want to do one! I just don't have the skills or patience for them yet, but seeing build threads like this is always inspiring... I look forward to seeing how you go, all the best.
  7. causticphlegm

    causticphlegm Member

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    Me too! I think I would blow a blood vessel in my head attempting one of those.

    Now if I could pay someone to do the treads for me... sign1
  8. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    How much you paying? I want a per link fee ;)
  9. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    Not surprising if you've been hacking through 1mm card with a scalpel - I use a cutter with snap off blades for the straight cuts on formers - much easier on the fingers. I fond that some hobby knife handles will accept #11 scalpel blades - seems to give better control over the blade than the classic flat handle.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  10. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

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    Chris,
    You should check out my site for some tips on these blades.
    The first two rules are above thanks to Charlie.
    There are a bunch more tips on making your blades last longer.
    Just some things I've discovered through a lot of use and couple which were pointed out to me, as well.

    I better quit chatting and get to work on my own tank, eh?!:mrgreen:

    Russell
  11. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

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    I picked up a tip also (most likely from here somewhere) regarding snapping the ends of the scalpel blades in a way that lets you insert it further into the handle/holder thingy. Works well for me, but it's one of those "there's gotta be an easier way" type things once the snapped off end bits start flying around the room :p
  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I tried those snap off blades and they never stayed locked in place, kept sliding out of the handle. Maybe I just got a couple unlucky ones.....
  13. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Here is my first part of the build! I go the turret ring attached to the top former in the tank. At least I assume thats what it is :) It went together pretty well. Two small gripes about it. Be very careful with the amount of glue - even a bit too much and it oozes onto the center ring making it immobile. It should spin. Second the fit of the inside ring is just a bit too thick to allow it to spin. I put a few 110lb spacers between the ring and former 9 to allow a teensy bit more moving room. I think this is a pretty ingenious way to make a spinning turret though. Maybe they are all like this - I dont know since its the only tank kit I own. I included a pic of the build diagram in case my shots dont make it clear how it all fits together....

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    Hope to work on it more today after the honey-do list
    Chris
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  14. josve

    josve Active Member

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    Nice to see you got things going Chris!!

    About the spinning of the turret I find that methode a bit overdone :)
    It can easily be made out of 3 parts,but each designer have his own way of doing things.
  15. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I got the part together but I cant get a grip to see if it really spins - might end up static. ah well - one less moving part to break ;)
    Chris
  16. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Another update then I better get some chores done ;) internals are all together and I got the bottom put on - superb fits all around

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  17. causticphlegm

    causticphlegm Member

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    Great job so far. What's the thickness of the formers? 1mm? If so, did you buy 1mm cardboard or use stuff like cereal boxes or shirt cardboard like I did for my shuttle Tydirium?http://forum.zealot.com/t150655/

    I forget which thread it's in but someone said 2 110lb and 1 67lb sheets make 1mm. The reason I'm asking is that I wanna order this: the Hobby Factory. Just wanna start off on the right foot.
  18. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    This stock came out to be .8 mm I used cardboard that comes with our mainframe report printouts from work. The max thickness in the directions was 1mm and I found .8 works out pretty much spot on if you cut the slots right on the lines.
    three sheets of 110 lb cardstock from walmart come out to about .8 mm as well if thats where you picked up yuor cardstock. Keep in mind that not all 110lb is the exact same thickness - some is more dense than others. I measured mine with Mitutoyo stainless calipers - pretty much spot on.....
    Chris
  19. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Update and question:

    Question first - How much detail do you put on before moving on? I ask because say part 3 is a part of the skin. On part 3 it has 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d - they are some detail parts. Do you pretty much stick to doing it right in numerical sequence or hold all the details until the end? I am tempted to follow it in numerical order just cause.....

    The pics! I got most of the skin on and I am cutting out some of the armor plating now. The skin went on pretty much without a hitch.
    Chris

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  20. dansls1

    dansls1 Member

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    Personally I build the model in my head before I start and figure out what detail bits look like they will get in the way. I save those for last regardless of build numbers.