H.M.S. Sovereign of the seas

qwerty2008

qwerty2008
Sep 20, 2010
35
0
6
so-cal
This is a build log for my paper H.M.S. Sovereign of the seas model. I am in need of help with straitening my model it currently is very wavy





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Cutting mats are a bit to expensive for me at 40-100 US $ so I used a piece of scrap wood I found in my yard it works fairly well


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I am planing to make the hull and the upper works separately then attach together when both are complete.


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Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.
HMS%20Sovereign%20of%20the%20seas
 

lehcyfer

Member
Mar 19, 2008
283
15
16
The formers need laminating to greater thickness.

Thicken them to at least 2mm (perhaps you could get away with 1mm, but I'd be better safe than sorry :)

As fot cutting mate, try and look for PVC floor lining - in shops you can buy or get leftovers.
 

qwerty2008

qwerty2008
Sep 20, 2010
35
0
6
so-cal
I have fixed most of the waviness. I am too far in to take it apart to laminate. The paper I got is the thickest I could find I had to cut it to fit my printer.


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.............................\/ My flexible diet coke can scale rod.

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...........................Filled in some of the beakhead /\

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.............................Aghh a foot /\
 

qwerty2008

qwerty2008
Sep 20, 2010
35
0
6
so-cal
I for got to say that this is only a mold for a radio control model so it only has to last till the fiberglass is dry then the structural integrity wont matter.
 

lehcyfer

Member
Mar 19, 2008
283
15
16
In that case I propose to print it out again, cut up and glue just the outside part to the formers without dismantling the skeleton, taking care to straighten up the flimsy areas.

If you're going to make it a mould then I propose to inject insulating foam into the openings, cut off what's outside and abrade it with sanding paper until the paper formers show. to that end I'd paint the outside edges of the formers with some black paint and coat them with cyanoacrylic glue to make them tough. This way when you sand it down you'll notice immediately where paper former starts and won't sand away too much of it.

When the hull is sanded you can cover it with some putty, sand it again and the mother copy is ready to make a mold for the proper fiberglass hull.

I'd forget about covering the hull with paper skin - the way I described allows for getting really smooth and nice hull. If you want to make the hull look wooden (the feel of wooden texture of hull planks) then you can cut strips of self-adhesive plastic veneer and cover the entire hull (the sanded putty one) - then you can get a wooden texture and lines of planks edges.

Naturally if you plan to just sand the end hull smooth and paint it you can omit this step and make the mould right away.
 

qwerty2008

qwerty2008
Sep 20, 2010
35
0
6
so-cal
I think I have a can of spray foam somewhere. For paint I have spray paint in gloss red, semi gloss black, flat black plus a little bit of flat black and some metallic in brush on model paint.
 

qwerty2008

qwerty2008
Sep 20, 2010
35
0
6
so-cal
While I wait for more foam I have been experimenting with pepacura and have gotten pretty good at unfolding models I made in google sketchup 7.1 (A program I already had) and they turned out quite well.
 

qwerty2008

qwerty2008
Sep 20, 2010
35
0
6
so-cal
I did some sanding and got it down to shape. The new foam is a different consistency than the old making it harder to sand.

I started on the cable car wile I was waiting for the foam to get hard.

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