Gus' Springtime Kitbuild

Discussion in 'Competitions & Challenges' started by steamhead, May 16, 2007.

  1. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    OK...In keeping with the spirit of this challenge I have started my build and have some pics to show for it...
    A few words about the "kit"...I say kit, but it's a misnomer...It's more like a scratchbuild, without having to go hunting for the materials. It's a MUIR kit, probably from the mid-60's, of a coal dealer. What you get in this "kit" is all the materials you'll need to complete the structure. With the exception of the windows, everything else has to be cut out, cut to size, fitted, assembled and painted....As I mentioned to Don, some of the materials were missing, but I was fortunate to find the same size materials that were missing at Michaels..!! So, without further jabbering...here it goes...

    The first pic is of the structure as it will look when finished. It's off the instruction sheet.
    The pictures that follow are of the coal holding tanks as they are being assembled, and a picture of one finished and the other about to be "skinned". Note how I use squares to keep everything lined up so the skins will wrap around evenly and not skew as they are wrapped around the tank structure. Also, I use every sanding aid known to man...The secret to building a structure like this is to cut the pieces to a close approximate size, and then sand them to the exact size required. This will insure that everything fits nice and square.

    The next post is about building the structure atop the tanks.

    Attached Files:

  2. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    In the first batch of pics, you can see off to the left side of one, the assembly of what will be the base of the tanks and where the legs of the upper structure will rest.

    This set is of the upper structure...
    The first pic is of the pieces as they need to be cut out. The other three that follow are of the structure being assembled. Here again I sand everything to the right dimension, and using squares I assemble the four walls. After this step, I will start staining all the pieces so the structure will be almost finished when everything is assembled.

    Attached Files:

  3. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

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    Man thats NICE!
  4. bigsteel

    bigsteel Call me Mr.Tinkertrain

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    that is a cool wood kit right there,i always did like the wood kits better than plastic.they jut look more...professional.great job gus :thumb:--josh
  5. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Well guys...It's not like I've been sitting on my hands since my first posts. It's just that this project has been somewhat of a bear...Here are some pics of my progress as of now.


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    These are the tanks with a first weathering. It's done with a diluted wash of acrylics and oil pastels. The final weathering will be done just prior to installing them on the base to avoid messing it up with all the handling going on.

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    These are the struts under construction, They were first stained with a diluted wash of Floquil Roof Brown.

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    This is a mock-up of the structure without struts...just to see what it's going to look like.

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    This is a mock-up of the structure with the struts...Beginning to look like something...

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    And finally, the stringers for the stairs I need to build...

    I'm coming up on the real hair-pulling stage of this build...Putting together 3 sets of stairs WITH handrails, and putting on the cables around the tanks. If I can do this without jumping off a tall building, wall1 the rest of the build will be a breeze...

    Well, that's it for now...Any suggestions on how I might accomplish these two tasks will be MOST welcome. :mrgreen:
  6. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    I used the insert link (Little mountain w/yellow background) and the IMG code from my Photobucket albummm...What did I do wrong..??
  7. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

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    You only have half the "IMG" code. somehow your URL and the ending IMG tag is missing. You did it the right way using the "inset image" icon, you should see the picture in your composition as soon as you do that. Recheck your post before you hit the "submit" button. Let me know if you're still having problems posting pictures.
  8. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    OK...Let me try that...
    Thanks..
  9. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    I think I got it..!! Just needed to look at the proper syntax for the image link...Thanks to all who've made this possible...
  10. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

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    I thought that Photobucket had a "IMG" string that you could copy and paste directly in the "insert image" dialog box. You can alway use the Gallery here and use that as your IMG link, if you don't want to upload it directly into you post as you did with your other pictures.
  11. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Hey Don...I used Photobucket so as not to have to re-size the pics as I do when I attach them directly...That's kind of a pain. Can the pics in the Gallery be posted "full size"..?? I presume the IMG link to the Gallery would be the same as for Photobucket..? Thanks for your help. :thumb:
  12. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

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    There is no filesize limit on Gallery pics. Just common sense says that if they're too big, some people won't take the time to view them, that's all.
  13. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Hey guys...Need some help here...I've been trying to wrap the "cables" around the coal tanks...(see picture at top of thread) but I'm having a h..l of a time with it. I'm using very thin sewing thread but it's a job trying to get them straight and tying a knot that'll stay put without skewing the whole thing out of shape... wall1 Any ideas..?? :confused:
  14. Jac's Lines

    Jac's Lines Member

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    Gus- I had similar problems with my scratchbuild project and ended up going with bands made from cardstock (this is maybe the thickness of 4-5 sheets of regular paper, and can be purchased just about anywhere, Walmart, Staples, etc.). Cut the stock into 1/32 wide strips, painted them a rust color and then just glued at regular intervals with normal elmers white glue. This is maybe not completely prototypical for these kinds of silos, but I don't think the trade off is necessarily that bad or even noticeable for 99% of people.

    There are other options. You could use a thin gauge wire, like florist wire, painted black or brown. Since the wire is twisted and rigid, it holds shape better than thread and as long as you're careful to keep the twists lined up vertically, you should be able to hide them the seams on this structure. I tried this with my scratchbuild, but wasn't completely satisfied with the results. This, I suspect, was more a reflection of my own impatience rather than a flaw in the method.

    On some of the older Campbell's kits, which are very similar to what you're working on, they used synthetic fishing line, again painted black or brown. I'm not sure about the logic behind this, but perhaps the fishing line will bond to the wooden sides of the silos better with an ACC/Crazy glue better than the thread you are using (the thread will absorb the crazy glue like a wick). In the Campbell kits they also suggest scribing horizontal grooves in the silo sides so that the fishing line settles down into the grooves and doesn't slip (this is supposed to be done before the sides are glued into a cylinder, so it may be too late for you).

    I also wonder whether you could stiffen normal sewing thread by running it through a block of beeswax (which will add stiffness to the thread and stickiness as well). I know that bookbinders use beeswax in sewing up books because it maintains shape, tension and position.

    I've done a fair amount of modeling, and I think these wooden silos are one of the biggest pains I've ever encountered.wall1
  15. zedob

    zedob Member

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    Most wooden and concrete staved silos that I've seen used flatbar bands and not round bar. I'm not saying that rods weren't used, but the flatbar would help spread the load over a larger area, where the rod would dig in. Good or bad? I don't know. I think Campbell might have gone the fishing string route so they could use thier already available turnbuckles for thier water tank kits. I guess.:confused:

    I'd use thin styrene strips just for ease. Glue some short (6" scale inches) round styrene to simulate tightening bolts and you should be fine. Just remember to step the bolt assemblies.

    Attached Files:

  16. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Jac, Zedob...Thanks for your input. I'm going to try the cardstock solution as it seems the most tractable, and would seem to be more prototypically correct. Hopefully once this is done with, the rest will go easily....
  17. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Close....but I made it..!!!

    Since I like to take things right down to the wire, I waited 'till the last minute to post the pics of the final result of much hair pulling and hand wringing....Hope you like what you see...:mrgreen:

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    Well, that about wraps it up....

    Thanks for looking....:thumb:
  18. Ralph

    Ralph Remember...it's for fun!

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    Nice work Gus! Your model looks very faithful to the prototype!
    Ralph
  19. rogerw

    rogerw Active Member

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    That broken window cought my eye , nice touch. Very nice work all over.
  20. TruckLover

    TruckLover Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer

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    AWESOME Gus!! I love it, nice weathering and the broken window is a nice tough :thumb: :thumb: