Ground throws

plbab

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Mar 21, 2002
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Anyone here use ground throws on there layout? I tried to install one last night, and when it was thrown it put to much pressure on the switch. what does everyone use to throw switches? Thanks Paul
 

60103

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Mar 25, 2002
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Paul: You need to match the ground throw to the switch. It should throw just slightly more than the points move.
You can get ground throws with springs in them that take up the extra travel. Or you can hook them to the switch with a piece of wire that compensates -- the brits use an "Omega loop", shaped like that Greek letter, which really is a half circle bent into the side of the wire (or just a V shape).
If I'm mounting a ground throw, I set it fully straight and pull the points straight and mark where the mounting holes come. I then set it fully curved and push the points curved and mark the holes again. Then I mark halfway between those settings and put the nails/screws in there.
 

b28_82

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Jan 25, 2004
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I use the Caboose Groundthrows. The ones without the built in "spring" i take a piece of piano wire and make a "Z" pattern in it and set it so it puts pressure on either direction that it is thrown.
 

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b28_82 said:
I use the Caboose Groundthrows. The ones without the built in "spring" i take a piece of piano wire and make a "Z" pattern in it and set it so it puts pressure on either direction that it is thrown.
Caboose ground throws are what I used. (Earlier I mistakenly said Chooch Industries.) They always worked well but the N Scale throws were way out of scale and required giant LPB's to operate.

Wayne
 

b28_82

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Jan 25, 2004
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Oh I agree that they are grossly out of scale but unless i put switch machines in thats what its gotta be. I dont feel like putting the machines in now that I have the track down and it's a module anyhow. Cheaper to bang up a ground throw instead of a switch machine.
 

nscalefan

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Sep 1, 2004
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Radio Shack switches...

I actually came across an article in a magazine (I can't remember which one now) where a simple DPDT slide switch mounted next to the turnout could be used with some .025 steel wire. I am using C55 Micro Engineering stuff and was having a heck of a time deciding what to do so I tried this idea. It is simple, works very reliably, can be made to look decent (I have rotatable targets on mine), provides very postive point closure while also providing electrical power to the frog and signals, and at less than $2.00 a pop they are tough to beat!

I must say that sometimes simple ideas work the best!

Jeff