Good morning from the UK

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by tonyevans, Dec 21, 2005.

  1. SD90

    SD90 Active Member

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    Hello and welcome to the Gauge! There is a lot of talented modelers here that should be able to answer any of your questions!
  2. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    God point Triplex.

    Allthough I have never had a big temperature change in my Railway room , and I do not solder all the joints.
    I do agree that extra feed wire is a must on any railway. :thumb:
  3. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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    My First Tree
    [​IMG]
  4. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Tony, the tree looks great :thumb: , but don't look now, someone stole your track... :eek: :D
  5. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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    Has any one got a (cold heat)soldering iron. and if so, are they any good please.?
  6. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Tony, I was given one back in October.
    I tried to use it, my buddy who is an electrician tried it, but neither of us could get it to solder a wire to an N Scale track. Or even a 22ga wire to itself.
  7. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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    Thanks Will,I was just about to get one . I might go for a gas one now
  8. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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  9. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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    [​IMG]I have now tryed various methods of connecting rail to gether.with Conectors,

    Conectors and solder, solder on its own,but i have found the best way for me, is to place a small square of sheet brass (Tined on one side first].under the track,then apply a hot iron and let the Solder WASH onto the bottom of the Rail.This I found needs very little cleaning up
    What do you Think??jawdrop
  10. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    Tony: They do run better with a bit more weught. We ran a few goods trains the other week on a layout that sees mostly passenger and the cars bounced all over the junction. The NMRA has a weight formula for HO cars (Can't remember exactly; so many ounces plus a half ounce per inch.) Also, you may find that a bit of weight helps with coupling. Try a penny or two in each car, a pound in the bogie wagons. Then try to conceal them.
    Soldering warning: You should have a heat sink on the rails each side of the joint. I use a pair of roller track gauges; they absorb heat and allow the sleepers to keep the rails in gauge when they harden.
    Just noticed: you're in N. That's the Peco code 55 track? Ignore my currency amounts!
  11. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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    Ooops!:oops: I have just realised why I have had trouble with joining track.There ARE different Joiners.Below is a pic of the ones I bought (red Cross) can anyone tell me the Make of the two sorts in the pic please .as I am sure the (Blue tick )ones will work great
    [​IMG]
  12. ausien

    ausien Active Member

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    Like everything else in this hobby, the type of rail joiners you use is one of personal preffrence,,,but from your pic/line drawing they look like Atlas, or peco, but either will work very well, personaly I use Peco I find they hold fit better, mind you I use Peco flexitrack as well, the Atlas joiners need a verry slight tap with my track hammer(just like ajusting the gap of a spark plug,)to get them to hold fast...
    I hope this helps, tonyevens...have a good one..steve
  13. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    The ones you don't like look like Wrenn. My own preference is Peco as the fit more tightly. Make sure you match them to the rail code, as Peco make so many. I would definitely avoid the ones with the flanges on top.
  14. tonyevans

    tonyevans Member

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    I now find the need to LEVEL the Track
    [​IMG]