Geep "B" unit shells

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by 65GASSER, Dec 25, 2006.

  1. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    Anyone know if a company makes b unit shells to fit athearn SD40-2s or GP38 thru GP50 frames? I've searched a few of my online sources and came up empty handed. I really don't want to cut my shells up but if thats what it comes down too... :wave:
  2. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

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    If you want to convert those EMD units to B units, you can buy Cannon & Co. High-Short-Hood kits, then use sheet styrene to fill in the hood sides where the cabs used to be. Then you want to bend your own handrails out of .015" wire, and solder them to Smokey Valley stanchions. This should work for pretty much any 2nd- and 3rd-generation EMD hood units except the GP60B.

    Athearn does make a GP60B unit shell with the forward-mounted dynamic brake housing.. They sell ATSF and Bunsuf GP60M and GP60Bs in HO.

    Hope this helps!
  3. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    Hey that did help! I already have some Cannon & Co high hood kits!!!! I never thought about that! And plus I have a few packs of styrene! Woohooo!!!!! All I need to get is the wire for the handrails! Thanks a million Tom!!!
  4. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    I'm pretty sure they also sell B-unit sections that would cover the cab as well, or is it only for the PRR/UP GP9s?
  5. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

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    Yup, Smokey Valley sells a GP9B and SD24 conversion kit, complete with the stanchions included. Nothing for Dash-2s and 3rd-gen diesels though. :(
  6. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

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    I'm working on a GP9B right now, I started with a Trains Unlimited GP9 I got off eBay for about $30, took the cab off, and I'm in the process of scratching the filler, which is simple, unless you're trying to get the doors in too, like I am.
  7. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

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    It's unlikely that anyone will make SD40-2B shells. Only three existed, and they were all different.
    http://www.trainpix.com/BN/EMDRBLD/SD40-2B/7500.HTM Mid-production; dynamics in original location.
    http://www.trainpix.com/BN/EMDRBLD/SD40-2B/7501.HTM Early production; dynamics in original position.
    http://www.trainpix.com/BN/EMDRBLD/SD40-2B/7502.HTM Early production; dynamics moved to end.

    There's only one GP38B, and it isn't cabless.
    http://www.trainpix.com/BN/EMDRBLD/GP38B/2600B.HTM

    There's no such thing as a GP50B.
  8. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

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    I think 65Gasser there wants to freelance. After all, we are talking about the guy who grafted on a Canadian comfort cab onto a GP60 and painted it up in MoPac colors. :D

    Don't know if he is willing to take on the challenge of fantasybashing a DDAF90MACT-2 though. sign1
  9. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

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    Now thats a project I'd love to tackle!

    Well if you want to be lazy just cover up the cab windows!
  10. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    Ohhhh we'll see about the DDAF90MACT-2. :D I've been scouring ebay for parts to put something together thats close. sign1

    I started cutting an old SD40 shell to do a rough 1st project just to mock things up and see how its going to go. Not as easy as I thought with the saw and tools I have. I can't get my razor saw in at a straight enough angle. I was thinking about chopping it down to half height and removing all the fans, exhaust, everything. Fabing the the roof out of styrene and making the hand rails. Not sure if that will look right. I guess I need to get a new dremmel. I dunno... you guys have any input?
  11. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

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    If I'm going to fantasybash an SD40-2B, I would:

    1) cut off just the low short hood nose. This should be done with a razor saw in two cuts: First cut would be everything above the cab sub-base. Second cut would be along the deck to get rid of the lower section of the nose. Use an X-acto blade to chisel off the parts near the sub-base where you don't want to saw into with the razor saw.

    2) Install the Cannon High-Short-Hood kit.

    3) fill in the remaining spaces where the cab used to be with sheet styrene.

    You don't have to cut off the whole long hood! (shudder at the thought) :D
  12. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    Yeah it would be about the same as the wide cab conversion I did... but different. That way would be no problem. I was just thinking about something a little different... like this picture but in a SD40-2. Ohhh btw.. that GP9-B shell is going for $45.50 + 10 shipping on ebay right now with over 6 days left on it.... :rolleyes:

    Attached Files:

  13. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    What thickness styrene should I be using? I have been using Evergreen #9015 0.4mm sheets.
  14. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    I like that GP38B! That would be really easy to model!!!
  15. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

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    That photo you attached... It's a slug.. It's different from a B-unit.

    A Slug has no engine on-board.. It just provides additional traction motors that needs to be powered by a locomotive coupled to it. A B-unit is an otherwise fully-functional unit that just doesn't have a control cab.

    Basically, you want to build a cabless SD40-2, right? If that's the case, you don't want to cut down the whole long hood.

    I would use .020" styrene to fill in the hood sides where the cab used to be. :thumb:
  16. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    Hmmm... didn't think about the differance. I believe I'll build both!!!! :thumb:
    The 0.4 mm is 015". Guess I'll be headed to the hobby shop soon.
  17. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

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    Modeling slugs it quite simple, but I'll have you know, they DO have doors, as they still do have electical components inside! I recently modeled BNSF 3967, a Santa Fe built 2 axle slug, built from a Fmr UP SD24B (Heck I even used an Atlas UP SD24B!!). I sawed the nose to the height needed, then chopped the sides down to the walkways. I then built up the sides with styrene, and added a roof. After completeing it, I realized they have 4 doors per side, two in the middle and one on either end. Not that you can't do it with out the doors, heck, I did! I added diamond tread walkways, and trimmed a-line steps (Sd40/45 cut to fit). It looks awesome, but the older atlas drive is too tall, so I'm going to add NWSL PDT's under her.
  18. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    Is that even possible? my mind is explaoding and its only got up to the DDAF part. its hung up on the rest!:rolleyes:
  19. 65GASSER

    65GASSER Member

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    Anythings possible if you have enough cash! :thumb: