Galileo Shuttlecraft from Star Trek

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by bgt01, Jul 7, 2015.

  1. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    SIDE RAIL

    The side of Galileo has a lip molded all the way around the centerline that blends into the wings. My goal was to come as close as I can without doing any major mods to the existing design. I can’t say what I came up with was the best solution, but it does somewhat approximate what’s on the real Galileo.

    First, I glued scrap white card stock to cover the holes i had in the forward edge of the hull sides. I used my precision scissors to trim away the excess.

    Next, I used pieces of my 2mm white backing board to cut strips 1/8” wide. I glued scrap white card stock to the sides for a uniform color to match the hull. For the starboard side I cut the ends to match the angle of the wing and the forward edge. For the port side I cut another strip to match the angle of the forward edge and to be flush with the door. Another piece was cut flush to match the lower part of the door that folds out. This is a problem because there should be a very small section that goes from the door frame to the wing that blends in, but I missed it during my redesign. The space I had left was too small to put one in. :( If I did another Galileo I’d just move the forward edge of the wing back a little where it should be and work that part in. As it is, the lower door doesn’t close tight at the centerline. I may have to rig something up, but I plan on displaying this most of the time with the doors open.

    For the center edge of the hull, I cut another strip just under 1/8” wide to length. This is another shortcoming because the design creates triangular ends on the forward edges of the hull that don’t match. I’d have to use some serious customizing to come close to the actual smooth, flowing lip that Galileo has. So, I went for getting it as close as I can. :)

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  2. blake7

    blake7 Member

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    WOW! This is really looking great! I love all the mods you have done. Can't wait to see it finished. Just don't let the Gorn in the pilot seat.;):)

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  3. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

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    Very nice!! Looks way better than mine did. These are tough models. It took my son, 5 at the time, about a year to really destroy it, but it still l0oked like Galileo that had a really bad crash! If I make this again, I am going to redo the front panel so that it is over-sized and can be cut or bet to cover the entire front surface. If course, filer and paint could do the same thing. I have toyed with making this model outof aluminum flashing, I think it could be an awesome metal model. :)
  4. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    No worries. This is a Gorn-free build. :cool:
  5. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    Yeah, that whole centerline section is tough to replicate well in paper. The forward edges of the outer hull skin should be more thin and should flow into the centerline lip to look more like the real Galileo. I had the same thought about using filler and paint, but I wanted to build this one as close as possible with just paper and see what I could get. That lip and the front panel are definitely sticking points in this design. But you are right, It's still a cool ship and is still more accurate than the old AMT model (with a few tweaks ;)). If you make a metal one you make sure to show us that bad boy!
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  6. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

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    It would be a direct copy, except for a modified interior, and being metal, the top edges could be curved over easier. That would be a long time project, and I have a 450 SL an M.G. and a Motorhome that need restoring before I could build anything for fun!

    That being said, I would not deter anyone from building this model. It is an excellent model, and when done, you have a Galileo model from "Star Trek" that is better from anything you can get unless already made.

    This is a model that is worthy of building as is, and is an all time favorite of mine, and bgt01 has shown the way, which is even better!! :)
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  7. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    NACELLES FINAL ASSEMBLY

    Time to fire up the engines of progress!;) I attached the engine pylons and support braces to the wings. I glued one side at a time using Super Glue gel because I wanted a strong bond. The end results are perfectly usable, but I learned several things that I would definitely do if building this model again. All these revelations came after I’d already committed to gluing the parts I had on hand.

    One, after making my first set of pylons straight from the original part I decided they brought the nacelles too close to the wings. I made a second set that was slightly longer and that’s what’s on the model.

    Two, instead of making 4 separate pylons I should have made 1 piece for each side. I forgot the real Galileo has a small section that runs between the two pylons, connecting them both. Doing it that way would have looked right and easily kept the pylons level and straight with each other. Also, it would have made it much easier to slope the tops and bottoms of the pylons to get the correct mounting angle.

    Three, the forward edge of the pylons should flow into the wings. Those sides should have been cut at an angle to match and meet up flush at the edges.

    Four, the braces should have been made in a totally different way. My mistake was using the ends of the original box-style pylons as my starting point. They are too wide and thick. The actual Galileo braces are thin sheets of metal that meet up with the hull, wings, pylons and tops of engines at the right angles. Mine don’t really accomplish that. When making them originally it was impossible to get them all to come out the same because the mounting board I used was so hard to cut. If I were doing them now, I’d make them out of thin styrene or really thick card stock/cover stock. They don’t need to be as thick as I made them. I’d use a caliper to get better measurement and try to make a jig for cutting. Or, I’d attach my redesigned one-piece pylons and use my X-acto/scissors to trim each brace to fit, paying close attention to where the braces touch the engines. You’ll see my problem later. I’d drill my 5 holes last using smaller bits than I had at the time.

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  8. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    Gluing on the engines is always a little scary. To get them as level as possible, I set up a jig under the main hull (using a drill bit case and some scrap 2mm board) to get it to the right height. Then, I did a lot of test fitting with the engines. I had to do some very light cutting with my X-acto knife to level out the pylons so they’d sit flush on the engine tops. There are still some gaps, but I couldn’t correct them perfectly since I’d already glued the pylons to the hull. I did get them pretty close.

    Next, I used the lines on my cutting mat as a visual “jig.” I put some Super Glue gel on the bottoms of the pylons. I lined up the edge of the wing I was gluing with a line on the mat. Then, I used that same line to keep my engine straight as I lowered the wing over the engine. The engines still had the rectangular marks for the original pylons which are correctly placed, so I used those for placement. I held everything in place with my gigantic “Who Mourns for Adonais” hand until the glue set. This worked out really great.

    With the engines mounted everything is looking OK. Galileo sits level on the deck and the engines are straight. However, you can definitely see how the braces don’t meet up with the engines. But, what’s done is done. Good news is that when the door opens it sits perfectly level and just touches the engine like it should. I had to use a pick to hold it open, which really has me wishing I’d made a better hinge. But for now, I’m pretty happy (just have to keep Spock away from the Fuel Jettison button). Next up is landing gear and custom base.

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  9. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

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    What if you glue some thin card / paper over the braces to disguise the flaws? That might be an easy fix which would not be recognizable to the viewer's eyes. Some sort of cosmetic surgery. ;)
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  10. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    Thanks @Revell-Fan. I might do that because that's kind of what the original Galileo engines look like. I was thinking of printing some squares of the same color on bond paper and gluing them in place.
  11. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

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    Revell-Fan hit the nail right on the head. That's an easy fix. Nice thing is you can really make each part to fit the brace in question precisely. The Human eye passes over this kind of stuff, and they will look perfect. I would recommend running a bead of two part epoxy around the gap, and make sure it is exactly flat, and meets the nacelle, the paper will fit just as good as what's underneath.

    I re-enforced mine, and like I said, what my son did from 6 years old to eight years old was a testament to the solid design of this model. You could do the same thing with the front. I went into Rhino, imported that part, and made it the size of the whole front. I went front the roof corners out to the outside corners, furthermost. I did it after I built the model. I used a very sharp exactly blade, but left in some of the bottom, and that became a good place to glue. As the interior is made in such a manner that the outside is not seen, the re-engineered front acts as a covers for the designers errors. I left the old windows, about .100" of an inch past the original windows, and sandwiched acetate windows in between. You will see, if you do it, that the paragraph I wrote actually takes longer to make the part and glue it on!! On the other hand, the model looks great as it is. You could just call it a day, and be very proud of the addition of your new Galileo model on Earth. :)


    Actual Galileo from the series during it's restoration.
    [​IMG]
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  12. spaceagent-9

    spaceagent-9 Right Hand Man and Confidant

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    one of those tiny round magnets wont work? by the way great job on this!
  13. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    Thanks @zathros and @Revell-Fan . I think we are all on the same wavelength with things that can be done to build this very nice model a little better. At this point, I'm going to just address what little issues I can and finish strong. I'm one of those people that learn/think up things as I go. After a certain amount of time I need to call something "done" and this model has reached that point. I'd rather finish this model (since I have a few others that need attention :angelic:) and know if I build another (maybe Columbus) I've got some better methods to try. Or, even better, maybe someone else will be inspired to give it a go.;)

    @spaceagent-9 I had the same thought about some of those super-strong, small rare earth magnets and looked for them at the hobby store but mine doesn't carry them. I think I will order some online and maybe super glue one on each side of the door to hold it shut.
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  14. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

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    One suggestion regarding the "railing"on the top: Just glue a strip of card to the "fin". It doesn't have to be curved, a rectangular arrangement would do, too. ;)
  15. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

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    When I built laser alignment assemblies, for aligning "things", we used these dime size magnets that were so strong, if you were not careful, they could pinch the skin at your finger tip, and take it right off! The only way to separate them was to slide them apart. :)
  16. spaceagent-9

    spaceagent-9 Right Hand Man and Confidant

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    I have so many I think I could mail you 5 of the magnets I get out of the bling lighting I use. just pm me with an address if you want to
  17. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    Thanks @spaceagent-9 . I've already ordered some, but thanks for the offer.:)
  18. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    NACELLE LANDING GEAR

    Galileo has forward landing gear that are semi-circular sections that extend from the bottom of the nacelles. To make these I cut a section of wood dowel using my mitre box. I used the same size dowel that is in the center of the nacelles to make the gear look in scale so if it did retract it would match the nacelle size. Next, I cut the dowel section in half to get my semi-circles. To keep it straight and from rolling around, I applied pressure by pushing two more dowels in from the sides. Yes, it was as awkward as it looks in the picture.

    I took one-half of the semi-circle rod and cut it in half. This made sure both parts were mirror images of each other. Then, I glued scrap gray card to all the sides so it would look like part of the nacelle. I used my precision scissors to trim the excess card.

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  19. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    To make sure everything would be level, I made a “jig” by stacking a book and layers of chipboard until Galileo sat at the height I wanted. I wanted it to sit like it did in the shuttle bay scenes. Again, I used the lines on my cutting mat to keep things square and straight. I put the gear under the nacelles and measured 2mm for the gap.

    I drew lines from the corners on the top of the gear to find center. Next, I cut 2mm sections of popsicle sticks for the mounting rods and Super Glued them in place. Finally, I cut little strips of card to simulate the top of the real landing gear and glued them on the lines I drew.

    I positioned Galileo on the jig and lined up the gear one side at a time. To make sure the nacelle touched the gear I took away 1 layer of the chipboard from the jig. I used strips of chipboard to keep the round-bottom gear from rocking too much. Then, I put a big drop of Super Glue on the top of the mounting point and lowered Galileo on to it, attaching it at the the original circle on the nacelle bottom for the original circular landing gear. I repeated this for the other side. The gear did turn a little, but I can live with it.

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  20. bgt01

    bgt01 Exemplary Confidant

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    REAR LANDING GEAR

    The rear landing gear on the actual Galileo is an old aircraft part. It’s basically a plate at the end of a piston. I built mine starting with a white popsicle stick. I colored it gold with a Sharpie, then used my pin vise to hollow out some of the end. For the silver part of the piston I used a smaller diameter bamboo skewer and colored it with a silver Sharpie.

    Using reference pictures, I scratch built the plate out of 2mm chipboard colored with gold Sharpie. I hand-drew the mounting tabs for the plate and used my metal pick to punch a hole where the mounting pin would go. I glued these on using heavy amounts of Super Glue gel because this part had to be strong. I cut a piece of the bamboo skewer to length for the mounting pin, colored it gold and Super Glued it in place.

    Next, I cut the gold popsicle stick at an angle for mounting to the hull. Again, I used a lot of Super Glue gel. The real part has triangular sections on each side with some detailing. Trying to replicate this in detail would have taken a lot of time and trial and error, and at this size wouldn’t show up all that well. So, I approximated it using more gold colored 2mm chipboard cut to strips and Super Glued on.

    Next, set up another jig using scrap 2mm mounting board to get rear of Galileo to the correct “landed” height. I put the landing plate in line with the gold piston and figured out how long to cut the silver piston. I cut the silver part and Super Glued it into place. Drilling out the gold piston makes it look like the silver piston could retract. After letting that dry a long time, I took Galileo off the jig and enjoyed the fruits of my labor. It all sits really well and looks great!

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