G-scale flat cars

Discussion in 'G / O / S Scale Model Trains' started by TinGoat, Feb 18, 2005.

  1. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Hey Kids,

    The pictures show the underside of the Hn42 flatcars that I am
    scratching together.

    They come from a 1:20.3-scale work caboose plan that was in the December 2003 Garden Railways Magazine.

    I'm making a set of 8. I'll complete 1 as the Work Caboose and keep the rest as flat cars...

    Maybe, modify one or two with tanks and maybe a gondola or two...

    I've kept the overall dimensions the same, instead of the suggested reduction to 88%. But I'll use smaller decking and details...

    Next to do are the truss rods and queen posts... Along with the NBW's on the ends...

    Oh, and I want to scratch a few sets of trucks together for the flats.

    Like the ones on the skeleton car...

    Though, I'd like a little more information and perhaps a diagram to work from for these trucks...

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  2. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Scratch built turn-buckles and Truss Rods

    Here are some images of the scratch built turn-buckles and Truss rods for the flat cars.

    Picture #1 shows a close up of the truss rod with the turn-buckle.

    Picture #2 shows the whole lot of truss rods with turn-buckles. Enough for the whole fleet...

    Picture #3 shows the parts used. Bicycle spokes for the rods and the nuts that hold the spokes in the wheel rim (at bottom.) I chucked the nuts into my power drill and filed the knob off the end. And shaped the nut to a losenge shape. Then I filed the sides with a round file to give the final shape.

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  3. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

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    Great work TG. I wonder if it would be possible for me to come even close with one in Nn3.
  4. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Well...

    Get out your jewler's magni-visor and micro-tools....

    Actually, in the smaller scales, you can get away with faking it. A bit of styrene rod threaded onto a piece of wire, or fishing line would do the trick....
  5. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    More Parts

    Here are some shots of the End-Beam Mounted Link-and-Pin Couplers that I scratched together from 1/4" copper pipe and finishing nails...

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  6. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    That's wonderful scratching Tin. :) Fred
  7. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    The Queen is Nuts!

    Did that get your attention?

    Made up two more detail parts for the flats... NBW's and Queen Posts - 32 of each...

    NBW's: I was going to attempt casting these in lead, but I couldn't get a good flow... And the master was too large... I was trying to cast these around a pin, so that I could use the pin for mounting them onto the end-beam. The lead wanted to cling to the pin instead of flowing into the mould... Lesson learned for another day...

    So I did a styrene sandwich. 1/4" square for the base, 1/4" round for the washer, two layers of 1/8" square for the nut. All from .010 styrene. Then, I drilled them all out to fit over the ends of the truss rods and painted them a base coat of silver...

    For the Queen Posts: I found a jar of 1" long #6 brass screws with domed heads. First, I clipped the threaded part off of the screw and left a ~1/4" length of smooth shaft. Then, I filed the slot wider to accept a 3/16" long piece of brass tube. I Soldered the tube into the slot of the screw. And then slipped the tube over the truss rod. The shaft fits snuggly into a hole in the needle beam.

    The plan calls for the truss rods to be bent to shape and inserted into holes in the floor of the flat. I decided to bend them out and extend them through holes in the end-beams and apply the NBW's...

    If I get ambitious, I'll post more pictures...

    Next two things are the brake rigging and the brake wheels...

    Attached Files:

  8. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    The more you scratch...

    The more you itch... :D
  9. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Should I mount these

    With or without the washers???

    A scratch-builder needs to know...

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  10. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Or, Like this???

    A scratch-builder needs to know...

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  11. davido

    davido Member

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    man, if i could build in my flats in G and then run them thru a reducing machine to N it would be much easier on the eyes. the flats look great, maybe i should move my layout oustside and move up in scale!

    respectfully
    david
  12. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Yes, I'd like

    to have a De-Bigulator too...
    :D :D :D :D :D
  13. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods...

    First, I took the truss rods and bent them to the proper shape by matching them up to the diagram.

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  14. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods... 2

    Then I took the truss rods apart.

    Slipped a Queen Post onto one half.

    Threaded it under the Bolster and through the hole in the End Beam.

    Insterted the Queen Post into the Needle Beam and pressed it all into position.

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  15. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods... 3

    Then I took the other half of the Truss Rod and did the same.

    Once both halves were in position, I re-joined them with the Turn-Buckle.

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  16. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods... 4

    Now, repeat with the other side of the Flat Truck.

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  17. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods... 5

    Now, clip the excess Truss Rod to about 1/8" on the End Beams and file the sharp ends flat.

    Use CA glue and add the NBW's.

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  18. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods... 6

    A closer view...

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  19. TinGoat

    TinGoat Ignorant know it all

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    Installing the Truss Rods... 7

    Lastly, I used my own brand of "Blacken-It"...

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  20. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

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    You sure are making progress TG.