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Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by green_elite_cab, Oct 14, 2006.
I'm thinking of hand bending the coupler lift bars, those P40/P42 ones are weird.
Why? you can buy them for like a dollar.
Overland Models makes them. I don't think you can get them direct right now, but they are on a few sites if you search for them.
Looks like i'll be gearing up for some more caternary. Tich Train Group has made HO scale PRR catenary insulators. Why? No clue, you'd think they are worthless without the rest of it. However, for my purposes, i'm pleased.
So far its only going to cost me a little over $40 between the insulators and the new wire (my old wire was to thick for the most part). It might cost me more though, because I need to find code 55 an 70 rail in a large enough supply to make some of the braces.
the final trouble will be soldering it all together. I need a better method.
This model club has some great catenary!
I should know, I ran a catenary-powered loco on it without trouble!
Thats cool! I always love seeing layouts with the old boxcab electrics. For a while i was thinking of picking up a PRR P5A, which is more ore less like the "Hudson" of electric locomotives (the gg1 being more like the challenger). They were pretty numerous before the E44s were introduced, and had been running since before the GG1 came in.
The other one i think is the FF2, which PRR ran a fleet of that used to belong to the Great Northern Cascade line (I'm pretty sure that was their electrifyed route). Once again, impressive electrics that met the end at the hand of the E44.
When i think about it, its surprising. Many blame the E60 for removing the huge piece of RR history known as the GG1, but that E44 probably did more to replace the historica electrics on the PRR than anything else.
And actually, it took the AEM-7 to finally replace the GG-1.
While this is true, it was intended that the E60 do it, and i find the E60 gets a lot of the blame. Meanwhile, the AEM7 escapes scrutinay unscathed it seems.
(lol keep it up GEC)
I've been so busy though. I have an E60C-2 now, but it is in Chessie paint and needs work. I still have to build my other E60, and i haven't ordered the Arrow IIIs yet.
hello gec its me zachary i have a question i have an athearn sd50 and i would like to make it a sd60m is their a body kit somewhere that will fit the sd50 frame thanks zachary
WHy would you want to do that? anyway, just go out and buy an SD60M.
While the SD50 and SD60 are almost identical on the outside, the best thing you can do is get an SD60 wide cab, and remove the old cab from the SD50. I don't know where you'll get a wide cab though.
ok thanks gec i asked you cause you do a lot of kitbashing and figured you could help me and im just not that big on spartan cabs and wanted to convert it i may scracth build a wide cab and put on it thanks zachary
Well, i got a bachmann E60C-2 shell thats painted in Chessie and smells like cigarette smoke. This is going to be fun...
I don't do to much kitbashing. The best thing you can do is order the parts from Athearn. I still think its better though, to just get a new SD60M altogether. Its going to look nicer, and have all the detail parts.
Wow - really great superdetailing of that Amtrack P42 - nice job!
thanks gec i think ill just wait and when the wallet allows ill just buy a sd60m or 70 m thanks zachary
Thanks! i need to finish some of my other projects.... that C32-8 has been sitting on the shelf for to long!
yeah, i'd only really reccomend kitbashing when there is no other option, because unless you are a master modeler, the manufacturer is always going to do a better job.
Oh shoot! i thought i'd get some major progress on my C32-8 done this weekend. I finished installing the see-thru steps, but i realized i need the brake lever rachet thing for the nose, and i didn't have it. its available at walthers, but its a one dollar part. I'm going to have to bother my local hobby shop to oder it. I'm not spending that much on shipping.
I still need to figure out the best way to install those photo etched radiator screens...
I finally fixed all the troublesome track work on my layout, and so everythign is running smoothly once again. That C32-8 is still annoying, but its looking good so far.
I'm going to try to finish my scenery this summer instead of focusing so much on my locomotives, although i still have a bunch of that stuff to do. I'll have to do a run down.
Well, i've decided to add a passing track in front of the yard. the switch leading into the interchange has been moved way back, and now trains can pass around to the other side to move things in and out. Previously, if a train wanted to put cars on the interchange, it would have to use the very small run around on the other side of the layout, and it just did not look realistic.
It also helps with the yard some, since now its a bit easier to rearrange trains.
this will also help in the future if i want to run trains onto my layout from an addition, since this way, i can move more easily around trains. Its also a good passing track if i want to run extra trains.
there is a third advantage, in that it also passes part of my station there. This means that maybe i could try a "light Rail" commuter like IHC's LRV that goes around the inside loop of my layout. I've even considered adding more switches so that the out loop can also go into the passing track and there fore use the other side of the station. The only problem there is that the radius will probably get tighter then the commuter cars can handle, but then again, i've coaxed some of them onto 18" curves, so they might fit for a small section of 18-20" tracks instead of the preferred 22".
So far the only big trouble i've had is that on one end near the yard entrance, i cannot get the switches to line the track up. I'm thinking that the only solution is to get an unfortunately expensive peco curved switch, or pull up the diamond on the outer oval and replace it with one that has an angle that better fits the situation, although i want to avoid pulling up cork.
here is a diagram. what is in red is what i am doing (the tracks have been pulled up or are being fitted, and cork is ready to go) The blue is something i'm considering if i can figure what turnouts would work there.
IMHO, I think you should just leave it with the red part.
Your tracks do cross anyway at the northern end of the layout.
I also think that it will be interesting enough with just the red section, use the blue for more activity in the other interchange yard.
Hope you are not offended, I'm not trying to be nafty or anything.