Found Dads old Train set....need advice, pics inside:)

Discussion in 'G / O / S Scale Model Trains' started by RTGreen, Aug 6, 2005.

  1. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    I found a box in my fathers garage that had some tracks in it, so I started looking for the train. Well I eventually found the box that I was looking for and was VERY suprised to find what might be a full Post War set. I asked him for some info on the Train, and he stated that his father bought him the set in 1957 or 58. He really didn't give me too many other details, so I need your help putting the peices together. When was this model really made, should it still work after sitting for 30+ years, what would the estimated value be? I have included some pictures below. I pulled these out of the box yesterday, so they have not been cleaned. How should I go about cleaning these cars? Sorry if these are some stupid questions, but as you can probably tell I know nothing about Trains. Any help or tips would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    RT:wave:

    Attached Files:

  2. spankybird

    spankybird OTTS Founder

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    Hi RT.



    It looks like your trains set is in great condition. Yes it should run even after 30 years of being boxed up. It may need a little cleaning and oiling only.



    You will have to make a list of the numbers on the side of the cars and engine.



    Here is a link to a web site that will tell you much about your trains. Just look up the number on the cars or engine.

    http://www.postwarlionel.com
  3. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Thanks for the GREAT link! It had a great deal of info for each individual peice! Would you happen to have any good links that show any detail steps to cleaning these trains? I was thinking maybe some warm water and a q-tip or toothbrush, but I don't want to mess up the decals.

    Thanks:thumb:
  4. Greg Elems

    Greg Elems Member

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    When I was collecting Lionel, a friend gave me some Shaklee’s Basic H soap. I'd put a few drops in a quart or so of warm water and soaked the plastic shells. A soft tooth brush cleaned the roof detail and around the ladders with gentle scrubbing. I'd avoid scrubbing the lettering but use a Q-tip to blot the area. A mild dish soap would work also and as always, test on one of the more common pieces. For cleaning the metal frames a damp cloth works. If there is rust, I've had fair luck with a fine steel wool. Be careful to not it around the motor and if the track is rusty pitch it. K-Line sells O27 track that matches the old Lionel in a few different radius along with the heavier O gauge track. The O gauge track is the same gauge but made out of a heavier metal and is sturdier.
    Enjoy your great find, glad to hear that those are still out there. As an after thought, I would avoid spraying WD40 on it. Instead get some hobby oil that is plastic compatible and has a needle dispenser. A drop on the axle where the wheel turns is a help for increasing the rolling qualities of the cars.

    Greg
  5. spankybird

    spankybird OTTS Founder

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  6. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    RT: Just what is dirty on the trains? I would avoid washing the bodies unless there is major caked-on dirt. Dust with a soft brush -- I use a shaving brush that no longer has meaning for me.
    There will probably be some orange stuff around the wheels. Remove with tweezers or Q-tips. Oil axle ends as suggested above.
    Take the body off the locomotive. There should be some places on the motor to oil -- where the armature turns.
    Strongly recommend Labelle plastic compatible oil and their plastic compatible grease with teflon.
    Somewhere we have a reference site that has copies of Lionel maintenance sheets.
  7. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    For the most part the cars are really dusty, and the dust is wanting to be pretty stubborn in the corners and grooves....I guess it's just going to take alot of time and elbow grease:D

    The car below needs the most cleaning. Most of the others are a dark color, so they hide the dust real well:thumb:

    Attached Files:

  8. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Thanks for the advise and the quick responses guys!:thumb: I hope to have this thing in tip-top shape by Christmas. I plan on retreiving the track and the Transformer(Power box/control center....what ever you call it) tomorrow. I've made a quick list of what was is currently in the set, and what I'm missing...according to the quick research that I've done with the great links you guys have posted.

    Whats included:
    1. 602 Seabord Switcher
    2. 6476 Lehigh Valley - Coal Car
    3. 6424 Flat Car - Car carrier
    4. 6025 Gulf single dome
    5. 6024 Shredded Wheat - Box Car
    6. 6464-650 Rio Grande - Box Car
    7. 6560 Bucyrus Erie Crane
    8. 6119 Work Caboose

    What I think is missing:
    1. Set Screw at the front of the switcher...this item seems to hold the plastic cab on.
    2. The cars from the car hauler...I guess I'll have to keep my eye out for these.
  9. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Well I recovered the tracks and other accessories tonight...I'll post some pics:)

    From what I've read this seems to be a lionel LW transformer. The handle was broken so I pulled it off the transformer and have a new one on the way.

    Attached Files:

  10. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Here are some pics of some other various items. I think the white sack has some fake grass in it...or maybe this is some weed from the 70's..jk:D . I have no idea what the other two items are. I'm sure that you guys would know?

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  11. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Here are the last group of items found. Looks like I might just buy some new track. This old track has some surface rust. If I get the handle for the transformer back in time, I hope to test fire it this coming weekend.

    Attached Files:

  12. Greg Elems

    Greg Elems Member

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    The box with the wires and levers are for your switches. Basicly it is a DPDT switch. The piece of track with the red center is for you operating cars. There should be another box with a red button and wires. You would use this for uncoupling cars and operating side dump cars and some hopper with coal loads. There should be more information on line about them. Also you could go to this web page and ask questions.
    http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x
    There is a lot of knowledge from the members there, more than I can remember. :D

    Greg
  13. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Sweet link! Thanks! I'm guessing that to uncouple the cars it uses some type of magnetic field to pull the coupling lever?
  14. spankybird

    spankybird OTTS Founder

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    yep and this is the track for it.[​IMG]


    tom
  15. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    RT:
    Your uncoupling track looks as if it doesn't have the extra rails for older operating cars. Some operating cars do work from the uncoupling magnet.
    The wire on the switch controller looks as if the insulation is shot. That isn't too much of a problem as you should be able to replace it. But if the power cord on the transformer is in similar condition, it should be replaced. You should be able to get a replacement from the same source as the handle. I replaced one quite a few years ago; on my transformer it was soldered in and there was a knot in the wire where it went through the case. (This may not be a job for everyone!)
  16. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    The power cord on the Transformer is cracked where it exits the transformer box. I pulled that case off and found that I have plenty of room to splice in a new cord. I hope to get the transformer handle and have the cord repaired by Saturday.

    Do any of you guys have any instruction manuals on how to setup the wiring from the transformer to the track? Or maybe a good website that has wiring diagrams? My father was going to try to set it up with me, but he said it's been so long since he's used the set he has no idea what wire goes where.

    Thanks!
  17. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    RT: The binding posts on the transformer arelettered. I see from the photo that the variable voltage goes to posts A-U. There are probably more descriptions of what the other posts do, but they shouldn't be needed yet. I don't know the LW, but I think that U goes to the outside rail and A to the center rail. (I read that some transformers, like ZW, are wired backwards to others.) But this should get you running.
  18. RTGreen

    RTGreen New Member

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    Thanks!:thumb:
  19. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

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    Sorry to be very, very late to the discussion, but in regards to cleaning: Never attempt to wash a red-painted Lionel car. Even water will take the paint off. Red cars (including your Lehigh Valley hopper) should be dusted with a soft brush only.
  20. GeorgeHO

    GeorgeHO Member

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    Hi,

    I agree with Dave that it could be a very bad idea to clean any of the plastic if you are not 100% sure of what you're doing. I don't collect trains, but long ago I knew a collector/trader/dealer who said leave everything alone if youre going to sell it, and WHATEVER you do, do not try to touch up anything by repainting it.

    My brother restores clocks that are over 100 years old, covered with grime and rust. He gets a ustrasonic cleaner, mixes up a batch, and puts the clocks in with an air hose from a fish aquarium. When he takes the clocks out, they frequently start ticking, either right away or after swishing the clock in the solution.

    I bought a plastic container (1 litre, 35 oz) of M.G. Chemicals Ultrasonic Cleaner concentrated which says use 10ml per litre for $7.99 at my local electronics supply store. It should make 3,500 oz of the solution, or 100 batches of the stuff, which is more than enough to clean off the rusted engines I bought dirt cheap, if I remember to grease the inside of the motors and don't burn them up.

    I would suggest that you buy a bottle of this stuff and ONLY use it, and nothing else, to clean your trains if you feel you realy need to.

    This stuff cleans "soft metals such as aluminum, copper, brass, silver, gold... cleans metals, plastics, electronic parts, circuit boards, ceramics, rubber, fiberglass, glass, and poreclain."

    If you would prefer to spend a lot of money instead, go to any ritzy jewelry store and they will sell you a little container of the stuff, diluted, for the same price. Jewelers use it to clean all their jewelry.

    Again, don't clean or "fix up" anything you don't have to if you are going to sell the set (in original boxes of course, the better the box, the better the price).