Fokker E.ll GPM - Short Build

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Ben Gal, Mar 8, 2007.

  1. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    . . whatever a short build is!
    My Halinsky Mustang is at the point that needs a Japanese hole-cutter, so I have one on the way.
    Meantime I received a shipment from GPM which includes Carl's recommended Be2. I also got the Fokker EII with a set of frames, and decided to have a crack at that as it looks a little easier and I have never used frames before, or rigged a model.
    This model makes a change from the curves, shaping and bending of the Mustang, and I am really impressed with the frames (wonder if I will ever be able to do something without them)
    Its great to have wonderful diagrams, and nice English instructions - build photos to follow.

    Keith

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  2. milenio3

    milenio3 Active Member

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    Looking forward to check your build thread, Keith.

    What are you going to use for the rigging? Do the instructions tell you what to use?
  3. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    good question Gerardo. I was hoping to get some advice on that before I actually get to the rigging. I think I will get put the wires in place before the assembly as Eric does it - but what to use I don't know yet. I have researched this site and there are a number of options. Given that this is the first time I have done it, I need the easiest one!
    GPM says to use .3mm wire.
  4. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    This is the front fuselage before the left side goes on. There's not much detail, but I guess there wasn't that much on the original. What there is will go in last, because I usually destroy it in the course of making the model.
    The fit is very good and the frames are dead on.

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  5. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I love these things! :D
    Chris
  6. horologium

    horologium New Member

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    I'm building the same kit right now! However, I didn't get the pre cut formers and since this is my first paper model ever, there are a few gaps. Which brings me to a question, how do you cut acuratly through 1mm card?
    Anyway, yours looks great! I can't wait to see it finished.
  7. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    100 weight filament silk thread.

    Trust me.
  8. horologium

    horologium New Member

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    golden bear- I put a photo in my introductions thread. I was going to start a build thread when I got a little more done this weekend, but it seems reduntant to have two threads on the same plane at the same time! Besides his looks better than mine!
  9. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    Thanks Eric - thats good enough for me. Where do I get that - any sewing store?

    Keith
  10. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    Hi Carl:
    I see that the F33, Be2 and the Fokker are all by the same designer. He does the wings the same way in the E11 and the Be2 - that rib and separator thing. He seems to want you to stick the rib assembly down to a paper base before wrapping the skins - your build seems to show that you did not do that? Any comments before I move in too deep!
  11. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    I buy mine from Red Rock Threads. I should think you'd be able to find it in the sewing shops - just be sure it's "filament" silk and not "spun" or "twisted." Filament silk thread is made from long, continuous fibers and has very little fuzz, whereas the other type is spun from short fibers and will be a little hairy.
  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Its not redundant - it gives us two different viewpoints of the same model :) Not everyone builds the same plane in the same order or in the same way. Show us the pics :) (I would suggest a new thread)
    Chris
  13. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    Horologium:
    I checked your introduction.
    Now I understand your "handle" - you are a watch maker-----WOW. I wish I was. This detail stuff (my Mustang cockpit, for instance) drives me insane. Pearing through a bloody great magnifying glass and bending micron sized pieces of paper, that don't want to be bent! How about you do the inside, and I'll do the outside? :)
    Seriously, I'm glad someone else has the same choice of planes - I'm off to buy my silk thread tomorrow. Please research how to drill .2mm holes into the wings, push the thread through, and seal it with glue.
    What fixtures do you recommend that we use to hold these doodads while we are poking the invisible thread around?
    But I like it better than plastic :wink:
  14. horologium

    horologium New Member

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    I plan on using pivot drills to make the holes, or I will make my own on my lathe. And I will probably use a pair of hairspring tweezers to manipulate the thread. I'm sure that as I get better at this I will find more uses for my watchmaking tools.
  15. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    The second front fuselage skin is on - watch out for banana problems. I used a temporary former in the cockpit area to make sure everything was glued up square.
    The frames make the rear fuselage easy, but come with their own problems. They are 1mm thick, but assuming you don't want to glue on the paper original, thicknesses will be a little out and you have to trial fit everything. I took this route and so far, so good. Carl refers to this in his build of the F33.
    I could not get mono filament silk from local store so ordered on line from Eric's source

    Keith

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  16. horologium

    horologium New Member

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    My E.II died last night- no more water based glue for laminating! I may try phot copying the parts for a do over, or buy another copy of the kit,we'll see...
  17. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    Use a spray adhesive for laminating (3M Super 77). I don't use anything else. Easy to use and no warping.
    I used UHU all purpose glue for the first time for building this kit (I normally use Aleenes), but I still got some warping on one of the front cockpit sides (hence the reference to bananas).

    Keith
  18. horologium

    horologium New Member

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    It's all of the wing formers, all black and white. I should be able to photocopy and do it again. First paper model, first big lesson. I started a Fokker Dr.I that I used spray for the laminations, worked perfectly! I will still use aleene's for everything else untill I get better at placing things since I tend to need to re-adjust alot!
  19. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    In skinning the rear fuselage the sides go on first followed by the top and bottom. Folded tabs (top right of pic) are glued to the sides between the bulkheads to give some glue surface for the top and bottom. I decided not to do this, instead to glue some 1mm square strips of triple laminated card to the sides, and to notch out the bulkheads to accept the strips.

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  20. Ben Gal

    Ben Gal Member

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    I decided to glue the rear assembly to the front before skinning it. As I mentioned before, if you use frames you have to make ajustments with spacers - if you don't glue on the patterns. I relied on the skins to be correct size and adjusted the framework to fit. Applying them after the complete frame was in place made it possible to line stuff up correctly.
    I haven't put on the front skin pieces yet as I need to add the threads for the rigging, and I haven't received my silk :(

    Keith

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