Flying RC plane models

Discussion in 'Extended Mediums' started by copertura, Feb 9, 2005.

  1. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Hullo, Magnus - are you by any chance from Scandinavia? (You can specify your location in your profile, you know, if you wish - but no pressure!).

    For enlarging paper models, see an example here. The Airacobra is scaled to 1/16. I don't know what scale a Do 335 at 35" would be, but the prospect of enlarging paper models is very attractive.

    I've looked over a number of the models you mention, and some of the are very nice indeed. Always wondered, however, why you guys don't start from more detailed models of very high graphic quality, such as Halinski models and others. Should be really stunning, and it seems you are going in that direction now. Will be most interesting to see!

    Best of luck, Leif (from Goteborg, Sweden)
  2. charliec

    charliec Active Member

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    The Do335 would be about 1:15.5 - it was a pretty big aircraft.

    Regards,

    Charlie
  3. magnus

    magnus New Member

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    Leif,

    i'm actually from the Philippines. I looked at your link for the P39 - that would make a great electric rc conversion!

    the conversion to rc involves enlarging the paper model to the desired size through a printing shop. my brother in the US uses Kinkos for this. the enlarged plan is then tacked to a foam board - 6mm for fuse parts, 3mm for formers. 1mm depron is used for the wing skins. depron is actually the material used in meat trays and in the fastfood burger trays. like paper, it can be bent, folded and carved into shape

    if you look at the following links you can see samples of these conversions from GPM paper models:

    TBM Avenger http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323360
    He111 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259789
    Stuka http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210521

    most people leave out the scale details to save on weight. in my case, im simply interested in using the formers to support the fuselage and the wingspar and ribs for the wings. the cockpit will be housing my batteries, receiver and speed controller. In the case of the model samples above, the modeller, YCTSENG actually put in all the scale details. being new to paper modelling i've never tried halinski models - i'll definitely check them out.

    albert
  4. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Thanks Albert (got confused by your "Magnus" identity)! Those are fascinating pictures. The rest of you guys, do follow the links and have a look. A few examples are in order, I think:

    [​IMG]
    Here's a TBM Avenger with wings that really fold - and it flies too, as proved by pictures.

    [​IMG]
    And here's the ABC Heinkel He-111. How's that for detailed work - in a model thats going to fly!

    [​IMG]
    Finally, the Stuka in all its splendor.

    These guys are replicating paper models down to the last detail - and they make them fly. Quite a revelation. Go watch. Even videos.

    Leif
  5. magnus

    magnus New Member

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    Leif, if you weren't on the other side of the globe, i'd love to convert your P39 and make it fly. since you have been able to resize the paper parts, all you would have to do is cut the parts out in depron, beef up some of the areas with balsa, attach an electric motor and radio system and you're good to go.

    the technology now provides you with lightweight batteries and electronic components to make flying a definite possibility.

    albert
  6. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Leif, Albert,

    Oh No! This could send some of us into another Total Attention Deficit Disorder Tailspin.

    YC Tseng has shown an incredible adaption of card models right off the sheet into a flying model. Leif, you must find this more than just tempting. What an incredible extension of paper modeling!

    Thanks Albert for tuning us in to this page, Gil
  7. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    No, no, no, Gil - I'm fully and without envy able to enjoy the craftmanship and incredible development of light-weight RC equipment combined with new exotic materials such as depron (originally invented for floor insulation, and not at all for model aircraft, isn't that something!).

    My flying days are definitely over, both as far as RC models go, and the full-size gliders which I actually learned to fly more than ten years ago. Both of these activites were great, but enough is enough, and I'm quite happy to stick to paper for the duration.

    Leif
  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Quick question: Anyone ever try sticking 2 mm Depron into their printer? Yes, I know it sounds crazy, but not insane. Well at least not yet anyway...,

    Best regards, Gil
  9. magnus

    magnus New Member

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    gil- might work with 1mm depron though I haven't tried it. you also need to determine if your printer ink is depron friendly otherwise it could dissolve the foam. to paint depron, i use an acrylic paint called Marabu. its a german product so it should be easily accessible to our european friends here.

    leif - isn't it amazing that a product meant for wood insulation can be adapted for modeling. i think that is the wonderful thing about being a modeller - transforming everyday ordinary objects (like paper for instance) into an aircraft

    one guy in the rc scale forum uses plastic straws to dress up his landing gears and after painting, they really look like scale struts.
  10. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Quick note:

    Ordered enough Depron to do a few experiments. I developed a low cost inkjet receptor coating sometime ago for just about anything. It works on overhead foils so it should work Ok on styrofoam. The printer must be capapble of printing T-shirt decals to be able to print on the 2 mm card. I guess we'll see in a couple of days.

    Will this be a Card Foamie or a Foamie Card?

    Gil
  11. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Method for Printing on Sheet Foam

    Hi All,

    Quick update.

    The image below is of the port wing of the GPM Baby Grunau IIB scaled up to 1:20. It's printed on an 8.5 x 14 inch sheet of 1.00 mm foam. Details will be forthcoming later.

    Enjoy, Gil

    [​IMG]
  12. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Exciting... - L.
  13. NOBI

    NOBI Active Member

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    Hi Gil,

    you have print that baby Grunau IIB direct into 1 mm. Depron? what printer you use? very interesting to do too.
  14. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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  15. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    what gave you that idea Gil?

    that is why we created this particular forum, just for such builds.

    please consider

    Rick
  16. GEEDUBBYA

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

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    Howdy Gil,

    Well, I know I cant speak for everyone here, but I can speak for myself and I know there are others like me who love to see how ingenius people can become taking one medium (card models) and converting them to others (rc flying models). I think its great to see what people can do when they put their mind to something.
    We have other members here, who do similar things, one that comes to mind is Eric from over at www.highflyingcardsbyeric.com . He creates flying model rockets from card. But they also make great static display models.
    So, as for me, your threads discussing conversions such as this are welcome and a breath of fresh air.

    Have a nice day,

    Greg aka GEEDUBBYA
  17. jrts

    jrts Active Member

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    Hi Gil

    I think you must be having a bad day mate to think we don't want to see this finished.
    How you came up with the idea it's not welcome I'll never know, I for one can't wait to see this.

    Mike krol will tell you I have a crazy idea of putting a model of a Lancaster in the air, NOTE I DID SAY CRAZY
    I want to do as much as possible out of paper and card, I know a lot will have to be changed both design and materials.

    So what you are doing here is very on topic for reaching that goal :D
    I even have four card Lancaster kits in 1/33 to test bed it all, plus some engines.
    On and off Iam working with the engine mounts for the kit and main spars.., these will be the items that will either make or brake the idea

    SO KEEP AT IT WE ARE WATCHING :D

    More than intrested

    Rob
  18. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Yeah Gil,

    Post the thread...........I got some of that foam and I need a little push to make me do the same thing.

    What glue will you use on it??..........when I got my order they recommended Odorless CA glue. It worked but was kinda iffy. Use too much and it would NEVER set up.

    AND did you use any spray to 'fix' the ink to the foam, or does it not need any?

    John
  19. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    OK, Ok, so you guys are actually reading this stuff! Just testing to see the level of interest.

    The posts continue on the RC Group. Here's a few items that I've learned from them:

    1.) Appears that Epson makes a printer which can print waterproof ink on plasitc surfaces and that the transport mechanism can handle 2 mm Depron. This has not been verified yet but if this is true I will become a devoted and loyal Epson customer, clogged heads or not.
    2.) Thermal forming is being experimented with to some degree of success. Area needs additional work but what I've seen it does appear to be within reach.

    The idea now is to print a Depron surface followed by thermal forming the parts into a flyable model. This is getting to be exciting! A four engine Lancaster in full detail isn't that farfetched any longer...,

    Best regards and more when it occurs, Gilley
  20. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Hi All,

    Had time to try out a few experiments. Some success was achieved using a covering heat gun and a plastic oven cooking bag on 2 mm Depron.

    The image below shows the equipment. The plastic funnel is for changing your motor oil but works wll as a small plenum and forming platform. Two molds are shown one male and one female. The process begins by rigging the foam on the female mold and covering the whole affair with the oven bag which remains intact up to around 450 degrees Farhenheit (232 degrees Celsius). The shop vac is turned on and heat applied till the foam droops slightly into the cavity. The female mold is removed and the male mold substituted with the foam situated on top and the oven bag surrounding the whole affair as before. The shop vac is again turned on and heat applied. You have to be careful around the front and rear sections to avoid the foam folding together in a crease. Pressing in on these areas with a gloved hand works well. A wooden clay modeling tool was used to increase the crease at the bottom. The female mold was again put in place and the nearly completed foam was placed into it before covering with the oven bag. The shop vac was turned on and heat applied to complete the finished canopy as seen in the second image. It sounds complicated but really isn't that hard to accomplish.

    Some residual artifacts on the forward section can be seen. They are a result of the oven bag being bunched together while heat was applied. Keeping it smooth while forming is important even if you have to stop the vac and adjust the oven bag to get it smooth in the area being formed. Notice also that the foam was literally drawn into the mold not stretched which is interesting.

    This came as a result of reviewing work on this forum (RC Group) and work done in Germany (they used cling wrap which triggered the oven bag idea). I was thinking of making a frame to hold the foam to disallow the ends creasing together. I guess that'll have to wait till tomorrow.

    Gilley

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]