Here there should be a photo{my sandard crappy photo}of my swap-meet F,that I practice on.You can't see them all but I was doing grab irons,aside from the ones on the side,there are some on the hood,beside the front door and on either side of the front coupler.These are not "store bought"grabs but made with the wire in bread ties.What I'm really proud of is that I drilled all those holes,with a #80 then#72 bit,in a dremmel...and didn't break one!
five dollar F
- Thread starter Relic
- Start date
Very neat! Great idea to practice on a cheapie and I LOVE it that you used bread tie wire to make the grab irons. They look great to me. I've used the thinnest staples I can find for roof grabs over the windshields. of some of my Fs.
Keep going, you're on to something!
Ralph
Keep going, you're on to something!
Ralph
N
nachoman
i'm imressed that you used such small drilles in a dremel. I always use a pin vise and break then white frequently. maybe I should try a dremel next time.
Kevin
Kevin
Nachoman,I have one of those cable type extentions on the dremel,lot less weight to manipulate.I also tried a pin vice and found it awkward,would have broken bits for sure with that,and at a buck and a half a piece we don't want that.
The dremel can break the drill bits even faster, and may also turn at such a high rate as to melt delicate parts.
Unless you need clearance, the key to using a pin vise is to expose the drill bit only as much as you need. If you are drilling through 0.010" styrene, for example, you really only need to extend the bit by 1/16" or so. Also, remember to let the bit cut its way through, rather than forcing it. I usually turn the bit about 1/4 turn at a time, and then reposition my fingers on the vise.
If you can't wait and want to go faster, make sure you wear eye protection...!
Andrew
Unless you need clearance, the key to using a pin vise is to expose the drill bit only as much as you need. If you are drilling through 0.010" styrene, for example, you really only need to extend the bit by 1/16" or so. Also, remember to let the bit cut its way through, rather than forcing it. I usually turn the bit about 1/4 turn at a time, and then reposition my fingers on the vise.
If you can't wait and want to go faster, make sure you wear eye protection...!
Andrew
G'day Mad
It's powered,an old pancake motored Bachmann that must have been in a set one time.Every train show/swap meet I've been to has dozens of them,all the same number.It is by the way a real number.
It's powered,an old pancake motored Bachmann that must have been in a set one time.Every train show/swap meet I've been to has dozens of them,all the same number.It is by the way a real number.
While we are on the subject of F units....
I have a couple of Athearn F7A that have one or more of the ladder/steps broken off the shell. How do I replace/repair those? I don't have the missing pieces.wall1
Kent
I have a couple of Athearn F7A that have one or more of the ladder/steps broken off the shell. How do I replace/repair those? I don't have the missing pieces.wall1
Kent
KentBy
That sounds Newfenese.
You could ,if you had one ,cut the steps off another shell,OR cut them all off and replace them with replacements from some detail company,or make your own out of wire.Best I can do for ya pally
That sounds Newfenese.
You could ,if you had one ,cut the steps off another shell,OR cut them all off and replace them with replacements from some detail company,or make your own out of wire.Best I can do for ya pally