First Layout, Wiring HELP!

[jdgomez69]

Okay, So this is my first ever layout. Nothing to fancy but, I'm having issues getting things running correctly. Don't let the pic bother you I'm still doing a lot of work. So, Where the train sits now, it will not run unless the switches are in such a way that the train can not continue down the line. NOR can another engine run on tat inside track due to how the switches have to be. So, I played with some wiring a bit a got it to run with both Switches as I'd like them to be BUT then the train runs in reverse. That really doesn't work out well!!!:curse: I''ll post more pics and whatnot later! THANK YOU

 

[cidchase]

Hi jd,
If you want to run two trains you will need to electrically isolate parts of the track
so that they may be connected to two controllers. This is called "block" wiring. You
can use toggle switches to turn blocks on and off, or to connect them to different controllers.
This is called "PITA" :curse: but it works well once it's all hooked up.

The alternative is decoder-equipped locos and a DCC controller. This has a higher initial
cost and is more tech-oriented. It allows locos to share tracks and does not require block wiring.
It has its own set of problems (opportunities) and challenges.

 

[jdgomez69]

Thank you! So, Where would I put an isolator? Between the two switches? I was thinking about DCC but, I'm not going to go to far our on this layout. As, I have TONS of O gauge stuff and when I get a big enough house that will be my project! For now I'm having fun with this and my O stuff is all put away :cry:

 

[60103]

Yes, you should have insulators between the two switches. Both rails. You need a pair of wires to both loops and then separate controllers or some switches.
You still have a problem -- you can't change loops if you have 2 trains on the track. This will take some extra wiring and more insulators.

 

[3railguy]

Looks like Bman EZ track which I'm not familiar with. If it's like Kato, the switches are "power routing" explaining the lock ups when you change switch positions. The feeders to the inside loop look to be on the straight leg of the switch cutting power to the outside loop when switched straight. My advice is like others. Put insulated joiners between the switches and feeders on both ends of each loop. This should give you power at all points. The spur I would leave alone since you can shut power to it when closing the switch. Great start with your layout. Don't keep track of what you spend and have fun!