*Finish* Willys Jeep, Modelik Nr. 10/02, 1:25, Special Build

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by fuchsjos, Jun 13, 2005.

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  1. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    fuschsos,

    I used to be a drive in the army. Most vehicles would only normally look perfect with their paint scheme the day they rolled off the assembly line. The day after, military vehicles would go through so many various ways of repaint, weathering, dents, etc, that their paint scheme never matched from panel to panel. Something along the lines of an entire piece (i.e. the hood) would seem very normal.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  2. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    fuschsos,

    I used to be a drive in the army. Most vehicles would only normally look perfect with their paint scheme the day they rolled off the assembly line. The day after, military vehicles would go through so many various ways of repaint, weathering, dents, etc, that their paint scheme never matched from panel to panel. Something along the lines of an entire piece (i.e. the hood) would seem very normal.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  3. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

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    Josef

    You should rename this thread from “special build†to “incredible buildâ€

    The use of the O-ring to shape the side walls of the tires was inspired. You have made me stop building Modeliks Kübelwagen so that I can incorporate some of your techniques.

    Jim Nunn
  4. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

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    Josef

    You should rename this thread from “special build†to “incredible buildâ€

    The use of the O-ring to shape the side walls of the tires was inspired. You have made me stop building Modeliks Kübelwagen so that I can incorporate some of your techniques.

    Jim Nunn
  5. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hi, Brad,

    This was exact the same, I thought.
    By the way, it's not bad, but my forum name is fuchsjos - it is a compilation of my real name Fuchs Josef, where Fuchs is the german word for fox and Josef is the german Josy, Joseph, Joe.

    Kindly regards

    Josef
  6. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hi, Brad,

    This was exact the same, I thought.
    By the way, it's not bad, but my forum name is fuchsjos - it is a compilation of my real name Fuchs Josef, where Fuchs is the german word for fox and Josef is the german Josy, Joseph, Joe.

    Kindly regards

    Josef
  7. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hello Jim!

    First of all I have to thank you very much for your comment.

    I'm very glad to have also a hint for such a profi like you. If you have any problems to realize the technic, so don't hesitate to ask, it would be a joy for me to help, wherever I can.

    Servus

    Josef
  8. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hello Jim!

    First of all I have to thank you very much for your comment.

    I'm very glad to have also a hint for such a profi like you. If you have any problems to realize the technic, so don't hesitate to ask, it would be a joy for me to help, wherever I can.

    Servus

    Josef
  9. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hi, friends!

    By working on my Jeep, I had a problem with holes in diameter of 1,6 mm and was looking for a better solution of hollow punchs. I found a solution by tools, which are using for professional diecutting tools. They have a inside cone. So it is very easy to place them exactly over the printings.

    [​IMG]

    By testing them, I have made some pictures:

    First picture show the work with a standard hollow punch. I don't use a hammer for this work, but encroach my bench drill as a small sqeezer.

    [​IMG]

    The second hole was made with the new punching tool.

    [​IMG]

    The result is self-explanatory.

    [​IMG]

    Both holes should have a diameter of 2,5 mm, but only the new tool made it. The outcutted piece have an interesting form, I used such pieces to make the valves of the tires for the jeep.

    Where light is shining, there is also shadow. You have to use much more force for the punching tools with the inside conus, because there is no place for the suppressed material, the only way is to compress it.

    For using it in optimal way (mainly for holes with a greater diameter than 5,0 mm), it is necessary to use a gear rack press (1 to) or something else.

    I'm now the owner of a complete set of the new punching tools in diameters of 2,0 to 25,0 mm in steps by 0,5 mm. :D

    Servus

    Josef
  10. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Hi, friends!

    By working on my Jeep, I had a problem with holes in diameter of 1,6 mm and was looking for a better solution of hollow punchs. I found a solution by tools, which are using for professional diecutting tools. They have a inside cone. So it is very easy to place them exactly over the printings.

    [​IMG]

    By testing them, I have made some pictures:

    First picture show the work with a standard hollow punch. I don't use a hammer for this work, but encroach my bench drill as a small sqeezer.

    [​IMG]

    The second hole was made with the new punching tool.

    [​IMG]

    The result is self-explanatory.

    [​IMG]

    Both holes should have a diameter of 2,5 mm, but only the new tool made it. The outcutted piece have an interesting form, I used such pieces to make the valves of the tires for the jeep.

    Where light is shining, there is also shadow. You have to use much more force for the punching tools with the inside conus, because there is no place for the suppressed material, the only way is to compress it.

    For using it in optimal way (mainly for holes with a greater diameter than 5,0 mm), it is necessary to use a gear rack press (1 to) or something else.

    I'm now the owner of a complete set of the new punching tools in diameters of 2,0 to 25,0 mm in steps by 0,5 mm. :D

    Servus

    Josef
  11. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Brilliant tool. Newcomers and interested in hole punches may want to compare for some earlier discussions on the subject:

    + "Very Good Punch Set available here"
    + "Drill blanks used for punching holes and discs"
    + "Wheel punch"
    + "Pounce Wheel Set"

    It has been a popular subject (rightly so), and I have a feeling it may have popped up also in places not immediately identifiable. In any case, your set of punches certainly seems extraordinarily elegant, Josef!

    The same principle was employed in a suggestion to buy stock of brass tubing in different diameters and bevel them inside at one end (for making holes), and outside on the other end (for making plugs), or make two sets, which is even better of course. That would constitute a sort of "poor man's" version of your professional set.

    The extreme suggested solution for making small holes and/or plugs has been bevelling syringes. I believe that has been used for simulating rivets and like (both recessed and protruding). For pure novelty, I would say few suggestions beat drill blanks (or similar) for punching both holes and plugs.

    Leif
  12. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Brilliant tool. Newcomers and interested in hole punches may want to compare for some earlier discussions on the subject:

    + "Very Good Punch Set available here"
    + "Drill blanks used for punching holes and discs"
    + "Wheel punch"
    + "Pounce Wheel Set"

    It has been a popular subject (rightly so), and I have a feeling it may have popped up also in places not immediately identifiable. In any case, your set of punches certainly seems extraordinarily elegant, Josef!

    The same principle was employed in a suggestion to buy stock of brass tubing in different diameters and bevel them inside at one end (for making holes), and outside on the other end (for making plugs), or make two sets, which is even better of course. That would constitute a sort of "poor man's" version of your professional set.

    The extreme suggested solution for making small holes and/or plugs has been bevelling syringes. I believe that has been used for simulating rivets and like (both recessed and protruding). For pure novelty, I would say few suggestions beat drill blanks (or similar) for punching both holes and plugs.

    Leif
  13. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    fuchsjos,

    My apologies, I'll get it right next time.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  14. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    fuchsjos,

    My apologies, I'll get it right next time.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  15. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Report_102

    The next step is acting with seats. First cut out some parts.

    [​IMG]

    Next glue together and grind the sitting area of the seats.

    [​IMG]

    The result is a nice co-driver seat.

    [​IMG]
  16. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Report_102

    The next step is acting with seats. First cut out some parts.

    [​IMG]

    Next glue together and grind the sitting area of the seats.

    [​IMG]

    The result is a nice co-driver seat.

    [​IMG]
  17. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Report_103

    The same again for the driver. Therewith he is not so boring, I give him a steering wheel.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  18. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Report_103

    The same again for the driver. Therewith he is not so boring, I give him a steering wheel.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  19. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Report_104

    For the same pattern I build the back seats. Also I mounted some small parts.

    [​IMG]

    With the mounting of the backlights, the electric lighting of the car is complete.

    [​IMG]

    Some handholds never could be so wrong. This are only small parts, but very time-consuming.

    [​IMG]

    The next report will pause for 2 weeks, because Josef is vacationing. Next sunnday is start. We will test the streets in the south of France with our motorbikes. Here is my best model, in scale 1:1.

    [​IMG]
  20. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Report_104

    For the same pattern I build the back seats. Also I mounted some small parts.

    [​IMG]

    With the mounting of the backlights, the electric lighting of the car is complete.

    [​IMG]

    Some handholds never could be so wrong. This are only small parts, but very time-consuming.

    [​IMG]

    The next report will pause for 2 weeks, because Josef is vacationing. Next sunnday is start. We will test the streets in the south of France with our motorbikes. Here is my best model, in scale 1:1.

    [​IMG]
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