*Finish* Willys Jeep, Modelik Nr. 10/02, 1:25, Special Build

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by fuchsjos, Jun 13, 2005.

  1. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Some color and make up and ready for 'Saturday night fever'. There is enough place for much 'Sprit' in the tank.

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    Also a view bottom-up under the dress looks kind of neatly.

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    A closer look to the tank - upper and lower part.

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  2. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Some detail views to the body.

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    With the knife I have marked the position of the pedals.

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  3. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Certainly I want to test how the upper and lower group work together and mounted them dry, without glue - like a test-wedding.

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  4. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Before we come to the final honeymoon, I have to make the exhaust pipe. For it I used styrene stripes in round form, make a little bending device with cardboard and used a hotair gun to bend it to the right position. After this I made a little painting and give it a small portion rust - it is a fairly new exhaust.

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    No problems with mounting the exhaust pipe - good and correct drawings in the mounting guideline.

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  5. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    After an effective test run there was the finally marriage last weekend. Instead of wedding rings I donate two fenders and a radiator grill. Now it's running into the honeymoon suite for some days and after it I would start to build some furnishing.

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  6. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Dear friends!

    In the next session I will show the way, how I a made the rounding edges by the upper part of the fenders in paper.

    Kindly regards
    Josef
  7. J.L.

    J.L. Member

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    Josef,
    I am really enjoying this build. As I've mentioned before, your photos are so sharp and well composed for detail clarity that nothing is left to the imagination. Superb modelling and stunning photography!
    J.L.
  8. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Some comments to die cutting of holes:

    If you look at the radiator grill of the jeep, then you will detect one of the parts, causing some headache to the modelbuilder, if he wants to cut out the part in a clean and solid way.

    Some tips to the work with such parts, should abrade the furrowed brows.

    The slits have a hole with a diameter of 1,6 mm at each end, so we need an acceptable tool. I have found a solution by using hypodermic needles, not for human but for animals. Some ranchers inoculate their cows by themselves and the fur of a cow is ambitious for such a needle. Under the adress: http://www1.westfalia-versand.at/shops/a...dheit/kanuelen/ you can take a look at such instruments of torture. There was also a solution to my 1,6 mm problem in the ordered set.

    I cut off the cone end exactly in 90 degrees with a little cut-off wheel in my mini drill. Then I used a small conus cutter a make a sharp barrier to the inside of the tube. The cylindric outer form of the tube makes it easy to place it accuratly on the printed circle or you can use a little sheet of transparent plastic with a hole in the same diameter of the tube as a help.

    I don't use a hammer to die cut the hole, but use a little press to do it. The most of us were owner of such a little press, like a drill rig for a drill machine - it is strong enough.

    First close the chuck to become a little even area. As a base I use a sheet of hard plastic (2 mm thickness). Place the papersheet with the printed outline nearly in the middle of the chuck and put the tube exactly to the center of the hole. Now you can pull the lever and the tube punches a wonderful hole into the paper. For the next hole you must remove the little disc out of the tube with a needle.

    This little press is also useful with commercial hole punchs, just put them into the chuck.

    Kindly regards

    Josef
  9. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    I'm not sure why, but this has to be one of the coolest tips I've seen here. What kind of paint did you use?

    Cheers,
    Brad
  10. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    EEk, when did I deserve to become an extreme veteran?
  11. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

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    Brad, most likely about three postings back...

    Josef, admire your work no end.

    Leif
  12. Orion

    Orion Member

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    Hi
    Beautiful , very exact and professional work and report
    You got amazing effect, applause!!!

    These..... springs, engine and equipment, body and .....your solutions(ideas) technical -modeler's
    I`m under large impression

    Maybe ...I did not read through, but : How you retouch edges low - cut elements? Pastel chalks....paints?
    Excellent work.....

    I wish more far successes

    I greet
  13. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    @Leif

    Thank you, I ever try to give my best.

    @bholderman
    @Orion

    Thank you, too. About the coloring action I will give you some hints.

    First I use Gunze Mr. Hobby Mr. Metal Primer to seal the paper, I use it as a pore filler. After some grinding action I use Tamya Acryl Color (flat) as base coat. After this I make the main coloring with Tamya Acryl and airbrush.
    For fine details I use simply watercolor. To reduce the surface energy of the water I use some drops of 'oxgall'. First I take few black (or dark brown) with much water and make a washing, applying color to all corners and pits, everywhere where it is useful to simulate some shadowing. Next step is to mix the maincolor with some white to a lighter tone and make a dry brushing (very few, nearly dry color on the brush) to all enhancments and edges.

    The exhaust pipe was colored with Gunze Mr. Color GU-H212 Iron, polish-color and with Gunze 'rust' drybrushed. After applying the polish-color it looks like normal dark grey. After some time for drying (10 min.) I use a bristle-brush and polish the color, until it becomes a metallic shine.

    Kindly regards
    Josef
  14. bholderman

    bholderman Member

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    Josef,

    Thanks for the tips.

    Cheers,
    Brad
  15. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Dang man you have got to put the keys up for that thing.............Barbi and Ken will surely steal it and take it for a drive!

    I have watched this thread from the beginning and you ARE NOT a modeler...........you are an ARTIST in every meaning of the word! What you do with paper, thin metal and plastic can only be described as artwork..........pure and simple.

    Amazing.......truely amazing!

    john
  16. Orion

    Orion Member

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    Hi
    Hm....the whole process of retouch (painting)" looks"
    enough compiled and .... labor-intensive, from this what you wrote :D .
    You`ve to have a lot of practice to do it skilfully but effects are excellent.
    If I do in standart model, I use to retouch pastel chalks dissolved in turpentine (crushed) ......as well as watercolour sometimes.
    I thank for explanation and I will follow your progresses ....
  17. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    The fenders I have built first after construction manual. There was a sharp corner, which didn't amuse me too much.

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    So I tried to get more smoothness. The outside of the corner was soaked with thin fluid CA glue (Greven).

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    The inner side of the corner was filles with viscous CA glue (Loctite 4062). The activator (Loctite 7455) did a good job, after spraying on, the glue harden in the moment. So it was possible to work effecient.

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    After this preworks, I could grind the corner to a round form without the danger, that the parts loose their connection.

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    After the grinding action, the fenders were primered with color and I put them on the wheel arch as try on. The fitting was outstanding.

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  18. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Now I only have to color them in olive drab and glue them in to the right place.

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    The corners behind the headlamps were flatten a little bit to become no problems when the 'eyes' were built in.

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  19. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    The battery was to simple in the kit for me, so I had to do some cosmetical operations.

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    Also I spent some time to make cables as a gift. Both cables were made of solder; for the ground strap I used a flat nose pliers with the solder to ... to cruch it flat.

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    The last step was to build it into the engine compartment.

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  20. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

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    Pedals and gearshifts were built in. The heads of the gearshift were made of CA glue. The pinhead was dunking into the glue repeatedly to form a big drop. Between every dip, I used activator to set the glue.

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