Finally got DCC now i need a lil help...

Discussion in 'DCC & Electronics' started by RonP, Sep 15, 2007.

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  1. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    Thank you i'll check that out today when i get home. How would i isolate ? tape ? its a plastic body with the disk like motor on the back wheel set. The train body is plastic too the weight looks to be cast also looks to be seperate from the motor.
  2. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Is it what they call the "pancake" motor..? (mounted sideways with spur gears to the driving wheels..) If so, it's probably isolated, but check it out just to be sure...
  3. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    yeah i think pancake would describe it looks like a hamster cage lol. Is there any reason why this engine wouldn't work ?

    So i should move on to next loco ? It looked to program fine no open circuit errors on this engine the first one totally had errors.
  4. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    ok i installed the decoder in the next loco and i get short circuits again.

    i just don't know what to do. i didn't get into this hobby to buy everything new actually the opposite. Is there any reason why i can't run these trains that i don't know ?
  5. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    What decoder is it? Perhaps we can test it without a loco....
  6. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Have you posted a track plan...or a good description of it..?? Maybe the problen is in the layout itself...

    You might want to try running the loco on a piece of flextrack all by itself...See if it works there.

    Is your programming track completely isolated from the rest of the layout..?? If so, disconnect the programming leads from the command station and connect them to the track outputs. Make sure your track leads are properly connected, and not mixed up with the jump throttles outputs.
  7. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    It is a TCS T1 decoder

    The trackplan is just a oval with 5 turnouts i believe i tested it all for shorts already. everything will expand from here, There will be other power districts. but i need to figure thois out before i move on.

    i'll try the flex track idea.
  8. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    OK....Try running the loco on an isolated piece of track...away from the layout. It's the only way to determine if the problem is engine or layout-related.
  9. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    Once you've eliminated the track, I don't think it will be hard to verify the decoder, then we can figure out where in the loco the trouble is (not that I'm assuming anything!)

    Jeff
  10. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    ok guys i guess it looks like i need a new loco. I have 5 here but there either to complicated to get the decoder in or tooooo old lol.

    so i have to buy a new one hows athearn ?
  11. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    I am troubled by this statement. Do they run well on DC? I'm in N scale, I can't imagine getting a decoder into an HO loco being that difficult or complicated!:mrgreen: Pick one, and maybe we can get through it together! We'll learn something, anyway.

    Jeff
  12. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    ok i have this hogwartz express from bachman. Though it is differant from the ones i seen online this one has a body under the shell dominated by the weight. The motor looks to have no wires at all attached to it and is encased inside the weight. thats what makes it so complicated to me.
  13. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    The motor probably has a couple of little clips coming out of it that contact the two halves of the frame. So you 'just' need to snip them so they don't contact the frame, and put the grey and orange wires on them. The red and block can then go to the halves of the frame.

    Does that engine run well. I've heard of some that were, hmmmm, not so good. Someone must have done the conversion, but Google didn't find anything. I'm going to search some more.

    What's your best runner?

    Jeff
  14. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    best loco ? this is it. Ok im with you, so the weight is the contact to the wheels ? do i have to isolate the motor as someone else said ?

    BTW yes there are 2 little copper springs i had the thing taken apart after my son went to bed this week but never ventured as i didn't know for sure of the weight being part of the electrical contact. These machines were built by geniuses that just understand electronics something i brushed of in gr 12
  15. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    It isn't the whole motor that needs to be isolated, in most cases, it is the brushes, those little spings are the contacts to them. I an still sure someone has done this, I'm still looking for them. If you look some more, I think you'll find that the weight is in two parts, and that each part contacts the wheels on one side, and one brush of the motor.


    Or course, if this is your best runner, a new loco might not be a bad.
  16. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    Ok i am doing this today i believe your eight what you say and im going for it. The old loco's are going to be put on the shelf for future scratchin and bashin projects.

    Maybe googling the style name of the setup. i don't know what that is but i suspect it is findable i looked through mosty of the pics at tcsdcc.com and havent really found it.


    My confidence is building and i have to go and rip this baby apart once more to determine my next step.
  17. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    ok now that i look closer i see you are correct the wheels have a plastic axle insulating them apart and the wheels do touch the weight. Seems to be a design flaw if you ask me as the wheels are not really connected by a brush but i am not an engineer and welcome the fact i can figure this out just by looking at it ( And with your assistance of course ) Thank you very much for sticking with me.

    Ok i found it split frame construction
  18. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    At least on the N scale locos I've done, there is usually a brass piece that is in contact with the wheels that sticks up and contacts a brass strip that comes down off the frame. the contact strip is a bit like a spring, pushing slightly down to maintain contact.

    It does sound like you are making progress at understanding what you are seeing. I think that goes a long way towards understanding how to fix stuff when it doesn't work later! Do you have a didgital camera you can use to take pics and post? It is a bit challenging to guess what you have when I've nver seen it...though we seem to be making good progress nonetheless!

    Jeff
  19. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

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    i wish i had a camara my son keeps on thinking they go in the sink (with water) christmas i will have one lol
  20. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

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    So, he thinks it should be clean!
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