Ferrari Engine design and build

[Zathros]

Will you have a bigger current load a lower voltage because of resistance from the motor, and will the power supply deliver and or is it self adjustable so it can adjust itself to the given load? It looks great. My wife would kill me if I set up all m equipment. I haven't built doodly in years.

 

[retunga]

the motor that I am using oddy enough when I was testing the circuits under no load the current did not chnage by much, at 1.5V the current was 115mA and at 6V which is the so called max voltage on the motor at no load it was 125mA when I loaded the motor to the point of near stall at 2.5V the current was 270mA.

The circuit is designed in such away that at any voltage from 0.2V to 15V should the circuit draw 3A it will limit it to 3A's I have set the LM723 up to sense Current and adjust voltage at the same time.

so yes the power supply will deliver the current and voltage at what ever the voltage point is set, the trick is that the power source can deliver the current, so one should make use of a 220Vac to 15Vac or 110Vac to 15Vac transformer with a 4 Amp rating and that will work 100%
If you have 1 Amp Transformer then the max current will be 1 Amp.

 

[Zathros]

Wow, with current sensing, that means if someone wanted, they could set it up to run real slow, all the time. That would be a cool feature. A really slo-mo engine!

 

[retunga]

Well it is time for an update on the devlopment work of the engine, I have now busy test building the piston, conrod, and cyclinder bore of the engine of which there is a few small mod's needed to get it spot on but here is the photos of the test build parts.

More photos will follow as the build goes on.

R

 

[Shipscape]

This is looking great. A must have when the engine is complete for a future build.

Fred

 

[terrinecold]

I weighted a piece of 160gr. A4 paper and after doing some sums each A4 page of 160gr. paper is approx. 9.8gr and I would guess the Letter would be about the same.

160g for 1m2 which is A0 format
80g for 1/2 m2 which is A1 format
40g for 1/4 m2 which is A2 format
20g for 1/8 m2 which is A3 format
10g for 1/16 m2 which is A4 format

9.8g is pretty close so I guess the difference is due to lost paper in the cut or to approximations in the initial weight

 

[inky]

Looking good, can't wait to see more and to build it myself one day.

 

[retunga]

160g for 1m2 which is A0 format
80g for 1/2 m2 which is A1 format
40g for 1/4 m2 which is A2 format
20g for 1/8 m2 which is A3 format
10g for 1/16 m2 which is A4 format

9.8g is pretty close so I guess the difference is due to lost paper in the cut or to approximations in the initial weight

What I did was to take sheets and weight it, and repeat it with 20 sheets then divide it by the quanity of paper that I have weight and worked out to be the answer.

In the case of the model, the model will weight less at the end of the day due to the paper that I am not using, it will insteresting to see what the finished masss is going to be, I am keeping tabs of how much glue I am using as well to see how that effects the mass of the model as well.

 

[peter taft]

This is sooooo very cool you are THE man, excellent design skills for sure :thumb:

 

[retunga]

The model is coming along well, only problem is time, at the moment I have built 11 cyclinder bores, once I have finished the last one I will get a real feel for the size of the model.

Most likely tonight.


R

 

[retunga]

Well Now one will have a better idea on the size of this model / engine, and it is not small, as one can see the bore's are now complete with one piston-conrod combo.

But as we all know time is the biggest problem.

Enjoy, more photos will follow....

R

 

[retunga]

Well Update time !!!

At last I have now completed the 12 pistons, conrods and cylinder bores

The next step is the block parts like the 7 big ends and some other parts to hold it all together, and then the crank.

Here is some photos of the finished parts:

ENJOY

R

 

[vbsargent]

Wow . . that is just . . . .wow!

First the design was amazing, now the build is amazing, and youi still got so much more with which to blow us away!

vbsargent

 

[retunga]

I bit of a sneak photo of where I am with the Engine. (crank)

At the moment I am busy figuring out and checking that everything is lining up, and also how I am going to assemble all of the parts to get the block together, at the moment I have had to do a bit space corrections in the block as the crank has come out a bit bigger than I designed so some shiming of the block bores is busy been worked out and the some jigs to assemble the crank is also been worked on.

I did a quick calc of how far I am and it works out to 21% which is fair as I am busy building the model I am also writing the instructions and doing small mods as I go along.

R

 

[zathros]

Wow, you have made fantastic progress in this. This becomes a "STICKY". I am about to pull the engine from my 1973 M.G. Midget, thankfully I have already blueprinted it, 3 ring forged pistons, 10 degree cam, polished valves, and DCOE side draft Weber Carburetor. I just got a "like new" transmission. You model really reminds me of the rebuild. You would probably cost cheaper though, mine cost me $5,000 dollars and I did all the work!!

 

[retunga]

Sounds good, I have always found it to be good fun to pull an engine apart and put it back together and know that one has done something quite cool and cheaper as well.

 

[Revell-Fan]

OMG, that's incredible! Will everything move just like on a real engine?

 

[retunga]

That is the aim at the end of the day, Pistons valves the lot, and with a bit of the electronics there will even be spark plugs as well, in this case it will be LED's.


R

 

[Rogerio Silva]

Gee, Man! A "working" paper Ferrari engine? And I thought I'd seen everything...
Speechless, amazed, impressed, you name it, that's how I feel! Fantastic! And that said by someone who dislikes mechanical stuff...

 

[retunga]

I have found the spacing problem, when one builds many of the same part any small size difference in any or all of the parts will show itself at the end of the day, between the crank shells and the conrods I have a 3-5mm error between the piston bores so, what I am having to do is make a 4mm paper shim that will fix the model, but at the same time when people build the model the error could bigger and smaller so the shimming is not a bad idea in getting the engine to work at the end of the day. it just mean that when I get the cyclinder head that I need to re-visit that part of the design, but that is quite some time down the road.

@ Rogerio, thanks, it is a good sign to see people speechless
R