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Discussion in 'Commercial & Civilian Vehicles' started by retunga, Aug 21, 2012.
this is going to make a great paper model.
At last the design work for the engine is 95% complete, only the timing cover, inlet manifold and the fuel rail needs to be flat packed and then the build can start.
This model is not going to be a small build at all, as the above picture shows it is 737mm's long, by 383mm wide and 430mm high.
The engines cc capacity is 1811cc or 151cc per a cyclinder.
The bore and stroke is 62x50mm
At the moment the head requires about 102 A4 pages of paper, and the engine block with pistons is about 84 pages.
I am guessing that it it would need about 250 pages of paper in A4 or letter size, as I have set the design up for both printed options.
This is awesome!!! I would love to build this!
Fantastic!! This is going to be a legendary build!!
The scary thing is the size, when started the project I knew it was going to big, but now that I have put a few important sizes to the model, I know the wife is going to raise a eye brow or two with a few words but I will find a home for the master piece.
First part of the build is to check the piston, bore and head design with the gears, that is my bigest concern at the moment, I know that I am going to have to have the tolenances quite open on the model as to left it move with no binding issues.
I guess my new best friend is going to be my digital calliper.
People who build these really either should have an idea of how an engine works, or will definitely learn how an engine works! I had a digital Caliper but I always liked my Starrett and Mititutoyo dial calipers, I felt they were accurate. The digital ones never held up like the dial ones but then again there was a great price difference. I have a pair of Mitutoyo calipers with carbide faces. They are extremely accurate as the faces are 100" thick/ However, being carbide, used improperly they can scratch a surface so must be used carefully. They are great for on paper for measuring and clamping parts together! I played around for a few minutes in Rhino and the timing on this will have to be right on the money. You could make the crank like Pre-1983 Suzuki's that had pressed cranks. That would allow the whole assembly to go together sideways and adjusted, the glued through a whole or side plate (they would be like thrust bearings).
Obviously, you can do whatever you want, this is a great project. It is inspiring!
quite a good start with the rhino 3D, keep it up
Rhino 5.0 has a new animation feature. I am going to have to figure it out I guess. Something new for this old Brain! Your expertise blows me out of the water. I still remember that incident when someone tried to accuse you of having to copy anyone else's work. I think that settles that ridiculous issue! This work of yours is brilliant!
The only thing in the case of the model that I working on is that Yee has done it before, and the idea is the only thing that if has to be said is copied, but no where does it say that no one can copy an idea. Yee's model is a good arty model on a table at some fancy diner as a center piece as with model deisgn it is a model that pushs the limits of paper modeling and engineering in it own fun way.
Yee's model is powered in the front of his engine by the fan and make use of parts that are not easy to get hold of.
As seen in pictures this engine is powered at the starter motor location and is making use of eletronics that one can use different electronic motors should one not be able to find the same one that I am using.
but as I say the idea is the only thing that is been copyed.
One thing that I have been thinking hard about over last while is getting the valve timing correct but that will get to with the first test build of a 2 cyclinder version to check the mechanics of the model and correct the design from there.
I have an Original Renwahl Visible V-8 and that was how it was turned over (starter motor). Actually, I believe that is how most car engines are started!?!. That ideas has been around forever. I have been working on a V-Twin and was going to use a crank. I personally have had enough of this copy stuff and people will feel my wrath if they start going down that road. Besides, this is your interpretation of that engine, enough said. You doing great job and I'm loving it! The CAD work stands on it's own as far a I'm concerned. Keep up the good work
Sweet thanks Zathros, I am at the moment busy on a few parts of the engine, the flat packing of the fuel rails, timing cover, inlet manifold (this is a bit tricky in that I have make an internal frame to keep it up and straight).
I am also looking at trying to get a nice way of explaining how to do the PCB out of veroboard which is for sale at most good electronics shops.
For 90% of people to go and have a PCB made is a bit over the top, where as veroboard it is matter of cutting the strip out in the right spot and soldering which is easy. that is why I have tried to use easy to get hold of parts for the model.
I did find some fancy IC's to do what I want but the cost and finding the IC was not good. I had to buy 50 IC's at US$10 each and I said no, that is not going to happen.
Well at last the model is now completely flat packed, and there is a lot of papers and parts:
The model is made of 107 unique papers
The model will need 316 pages of paper
The model will be made up of 6079 single parts that will make this engine a reality.
that excludes the electronics and wires which I still need to work out, the veraboard version, the Printed PCB version is in place.
I have not yet worked out the complete number of finished parts there are going to be, but would guess around the +/-250 pieces ????
I worked out the approx. mass of the model and it will be about 3kg's of paper and I am putting about 1kg aside for glue.
I weighted a piece of 160gr. A4 paper and after doing some sums each A4 page of 160gr. paper is approx. 9.8gr and I would guess the Letter would be about the same.
In thing that I still need to do on the artworks is to number the parts and come up with a nice way of doing it.
but for now I am doing about 1 year side to complete this build I would say that if I complete it any sooner than that would be a world of luck.
I would say that this is going to be a fun build and then a long visit to a mental hospital to bring me back to the real world
Here is a quick render of the model in what it most likely will look like, this only took me 5-10 minutes to do, of which the quality of the render is not good, but fiar.
Look damned good to me! I would find building a real engine easier. This is awesome!
I agree, looks great.
I've looked at the Yee engine but think I'll wait for yours to be completed.
Looks much more interesting. :thumb:
I've seen Yees Engine, it is nowhere near as complicated as this. Yee's is a generic engine. It's also incredible. I don't think I could build more than a V-2 engine and it would have to have a belt for the overhead came, maybe a Ducati wish Desmo valve set up.
After I have come out of the nut house, I am looking at doing the the Ducati Desmo valve setup, possibly the Ducati 996 or one of those versions, the valve setup I did in fact think about doing for this engine as to be totally 100% paper but the space and size of the valves and cam's would be really small.
You make a non adjustable valve version, who cares if they clack, no one should rev a paper model that high. A toothed belt would have to be sourced. Sony had really nice ones for their old VCR's that would be perfect.
Well the model build has now started, the first part of the model that I building and completing is the electronics for both the test build of the engine and final full build it requires the same electronic circuits.
This photo shows the power supply circuit under devlopment test, and it works quite well, it needs min voltage of 10.5V at 65mA no load to run, but 13.5V with at least 3A supply would be better.
This photo is the complete electronics needed to power the engine with a supply voltage checker, 13.5V = good and 10.5V = bad.
The geared motor is also running under no load at 115mA at 6Vdc, i will most likely run the motor at 2 - 2.5Vdc at the end of the day.