Engine ID please
- Thread starter aartwmich
- Start date
Hi:
I can only tell you the basics. It's an 0-4-0, probably a switcher or a "yard dog" The tender shape reinforces this idea. The sloped back helped the crew see to the rear of the engine to make yard operations easier. I'd guess from the stack that it's from the early part of the 1900s. You might want to go out on the web and check out some of the steam engine sites. You'll probably find a prototype that is close.
Regards,
Ted
I can only tell you the basics. It's an 0-4-0, probably a switcher or a "yard dog" The tender shape reinforces this idea. The sloped back helped the crew see to the rear of the engine to make yard operations easier. I'd guess from the stack that it's from the early part of the 1900s. You might want to go out on the web and check out some of the steam engine sites. You'll probably find a prototype that is close.
Regards,
Ted
Whatever it is...it's CUTE! (Ducks as the righteously indignant throw things at him for daring to call something "cute"...)
I have to agree; looks like a river. Mine has a similar angled motor and the chassis has a similar shape to it. Mine says riviorossi on the inside if you pull the body off; I think in the cab.
Here's and old timers best guess I believe its a Varney 0-4-0 judging the construction of the drive rods, brass wheels and the open frame motor. Look on the underside of the tender to see if there is a name stamped in it. My other thought would be an Aristo-Craft by Polk Hobbies.
I believe its a Varney 0-4-0 judging the construction of the drive rods, brass wheels and the open frame motor. Look on the underside of the tender to see if there is a name stamped in it. My other thought would be an Aristo-Craft by Polk Hobbies.Vic's memory is probably better than mine, that it's Varney...I thought it looked more like a Mantua profile at first glance. Sure doesn't look like a European built engine from Rivarossi or Aristo. Most Aristo steam locos in the 50's had European-looking profiles. Main point is what is it made of ??? Is it white metal??...if so it can't be Rivarossi anyway.I think I've got a Central Valley valve gear kit that would fit this engine.
regards / Mike
regards / Mike
Mike R wins the guessing contest!!! Actually I have to apologize for my sometimes airheadedness, Mantua was right on the bottom of the tender, I just didn't look<blush>. Course knowing nothing about trains I still wondered from what era this train was from.
What I DO know is EXACTLY what it is made from. It's 95% zinc and 5% tungsten. I know this cause I tested with the 'metal taster', a rather nifty x-ray gun I use at work to determine the chemical content of metal alloys. Was fun to use it on something else besides stainless steel for once..... but really I did work hard today...lol
Thanks folks for all your replies
What I DO know is EXACTLY what it is made from. It's 95% zinc and 5% tungsten. I know this cause I tested with the 'metal taster', a rather nifty x-ray gun I use at work to determine the chemical content of metal alloys. Was fun to use it on something else besides stainless steel for once..... but really I did work hard today...lol
Thanks folks for all your replies
Actually, Tomboygirl, I wasn't guessing...I was just trying to get a "rise" out of Vic, because old Gord Varney, God bless his Soul, never made an 0-4-0 with tender...and I figured Vic should know that.
I believe that Mantua engine was known as "The Shifter" , and the kit sold for US$15.95 in the mid-50's. That was quite a bit of money for that time, compared to average earnings.
Compliments of the Season & regards / Mike
I believe that Mantua engine was known as "The Shifter" , and the kit sold for US$15.95 in the mid-50's. That was quite a bit of money for that time, compared to average earnings.
Compliments of the Season & regards / Mike
Well, the little 'Shifter' is running again, it seems to be very temperamental.
This time to get it running, after cleaning one connector at a time to no avail, I finally ran a bit of 400 grit wet/dry over the brushes a few times and it took off like hell!!!
Is this a fluke, or a valid fix? Only time, or someone here, will tell.
This time to get it running, after cleaning one connector at a time to no avail, I finally ran a bit of 400 grit wet/dry over the brushes a few times and it took off like hell!!!
Is this a fluke, or a valid fix? Only time, or someone here, will tell.
That looks like a very early Mantua O-4-0. It looks to be made from metal. It may also be a Varney.
Hey Mike, Yep I got fooled on that one The way the drawbar attaches the tender got me!
Did y'all know that a lot of the Life-Like HO 40 ft. steam era cars are made from Varney's molds?
Tomboygirl...that's a fix but too much of that 400 grit paper will wear them out. Next time try some alcohol and a Q-Tip. Go to the LHS and get you a package of K&S fine emory paper...its 1000 to 1600 grit...great for polishing up the motor's commutator or in a pinch a pencil eraser will work.
The way the drawbar attaches the tender got me! Did y'all know that a lot of the Life-Like HO 40 ft. steam era cars are made from Varney's molds?
Tomboygirl...that's a fix but too much of that 400 grit paper will wear them out. Next time try some alcohol and a Q-Tip. Go to the LHS and get you a package of K&S fine emory paper...its 1000 to 1600 grit...great for polishing up the motor's commutator
or in a pinch a pencil eraser will work.Hi:
I've been using "Wenger" silver polish on my various and sundry shiny metal stuff to get it clean. This avoids an abrasive like emory cloth or sandpaper and truly polishes the surfaces to a bright shine. Have used it on old tin plate track, armatures, pickups, wheels, commutators, etc. After i clean the item with the polish i hit it with some radio shack cleaner/degreaser and then with some radio shack tuner cleaner. The former strips off any cleaning residue and the later leaves a wee bit 'o lubricant which seems to preserve the metal from oxidizing for a very long time.
I started doing this because the "tin plate" flyer track just corrodes worse if you strip off the plating and expose more of the base metal. My engines and old turnouts have been quite happy since i started doing this procedure.
Y'all see any downside to the above?
Regards,
Ted
I've been using "Wenger" silver polish on my various and sundry shiny metal stuff to get it clean. This avoids an abrasive like emory cloth or sandpaper and truly polishes the surfaces to a bright shine. Have used it on old tin plate track, armatures, pickups, wheels, commutators, etc. After i clean the item with the polish i hit it with some radio shack cleaner/degreaser and then with some radio shack tuner cleaner. The former strips off any cleaning residue and the later leaves a wee bit 'o lubricant which seems to preserve the metal from oxidizing for a very long time.
I started doing this because the "tin plate" flyer track just corrodes worse if you strip off the plating and expose more of the base metal. My engines and old turnouts have been quite happy since i started doing this procedure.
Y'all see any downside to the above?
Regards,
Ted
I've seen the tuner lube argument for 20 years... Some people swear by it, some people swear at it... I have worked in electronics in some fashion or another for over 20 years and have used tuner lube for everything from large electric motor brushes to carbon traces on $70,000 audio console faders. It is not really designed for faders, but old worn faders get pits in the carbon traces and the "conductive" properties of the tuner lube help smooth out the "pops" that would otherwise require replacing a fader. It also helps protect the fader from further wear until it can be replaced. This is particularly valuable when one is on the road and cannot easily do a major overhaul of the console.
That said, it gives you an idea of how non destructive the stuff is on something like cast metal parts. Anyone who says you will ruin your rails or wheels by using the stuff is full of baloney... The only drawback that I have found using the stuff on the layout is that it has a slightly greasy texture that does not dry out. This tends to pick up little bits of "crud" from the layout (dust, loose ballast, etc). I just hit the truck with Blue Shower (the industrial version of tuner cleaner) and re-apply the lube. I have tried every idea that has come along (wet rails, dry rails--I even gold plated the tops of the rails back in my jeweler days) and I have yet to find something as easy and reliable as the method you use. If it's good enough for critical components in the electronics industry (communications, aerospace, security, emergency systems), it's good enough for our little models...
Tom F
I have worked in electronics in some fashion or another for over 20 years and have used tuner lube for everything from large electric motor brushes to carbon traces on $70,000 audio console faders. It is not really designed for faders, but old worn faders get pits in the carbon traces and the "conductive" properties of the tuner lube help smooth out the "pops" that would otherwise require replacing a fader. It also helps protect the fader from further wear until it can be replaced. This is particularly valuable when one is on the road and cannot easily do a major overhaul of the console.That said, it gives you an idea of how non destructive the stuff is on something like cast metal parts. Anyone who says you will ruin your rails or wheels by using the stuff is full of baloney...
The only drawback that I have found using the stuff on the layout is that it has a slightly greasy texture that does not dry out. This tends to pick up little bits of "crud" from the layout (dust, loose ballast, etc). I just hit the truck with Blue Shower (the industrial version of tuner cleaner) and re-apply the lube. I have tried every idea that has come along (wet rails, dry rails--I even gold plated the tops of the rails back in my jeweler days) and I have yet to find something as easy and reliable as the method you use. If it's good enough for critical components in the electronics industry (communications, aerospace, security, emergency systems), it's good enough for our little models... Tom F
And another thing...
Tomboygirl,
Wow, a women who is into railroad modeling, small mechanics, chemistry and uses big cool tools on stainless steel?
Will you marry me (he, he)...
Sorry, it had to be said...
Tom F
Tomboygirl,
Wow, a women who is into railroad modeling, small mechanics, chemistry and uses big cool tools on stainless steel?
Will you marry me (he, he)...
Sorry, it had to be said...
Tom F
TR-Flyer........... I wonder, does Radio Shack still carry these products? I would be concerned tho, as Tom Fassett mentions, about the lube leaving a residue that would capture ALL the MULTITUDE of dust particles that float around MY house. It might be worth some extra dusting to slow the corrosion of my brass rails.
Tom Fassett....hhhhmmmmmm, do you golf? lol
Tom Fassett....hhhhmmmmmm, do you golf? lol
What are you talking about? I use my track to dust the house. I swear every little dust mote finds its way to the rails and loco wheels. I just clean the track once a month and the house stays squeaky clean (which is saying a lot 'cause I live in the middle of the desert... )
Radio Shack still carries the cleaner/degreaser and the tuner lube. You might also want to check out the local electronics supplier as they carry similar products but they are a lot cheaper in larger cans.
As to golf, I have tried it numerous times. I do a lot of computer work for the hospitality industry and am always getting free dinners, drinks and games of golf. The last time I went with my brother, I shanked a shot to the left so bad it shattered the windshield of the cart. For safety reasons, most of the golf courses in Phoenix "encourage" me to actively pursue other hobbies... Now I just go along as the "designated driver..." It is a tenuous compromise that has been brokered between myself and the pro shop managers (sigh...) I am afraid to rock the boat...
Tom F
I swear every little dust mote finds its way to the rails and loco wheels. I just clean the track once a month and the house stays squeaky clean (which is saying a lot 'cause I live in the middle of the desert... )Radio Shack still carries the cleaner/degreaser and the tuner lube. You might also want to check out the local electronics supplier as they carry similar products but they are a lot cheaper in larger cans.
As to golf, I have tried it numerous times. I do a lot of computer work for the hospitality industry and am always getting free dinners, drinks and games of golf. The last time I went with my brother, I shanked a shot to the left so bad it shattered the windshield of the cart. For safety reasons, most of the golf courses in Phoenix "encourage" me to actively pursue other hobbies...
Now I just go along as the "designated driver..." It is a tenuous compromise that has been brokered between myself and the pro shop managers (sigh...) I am afraid to rock the boat... Tom F