Edge Coloring?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by jparenti, May 8, 2007.

  1. josve

    josve Active Member

    Oct 21, 2005
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    I'm coloring all edges that will be visible and also a lot of parts that don't...
    I find myselves painting a lot LOL
    And I use a lot of stuff to get it done.
    I have a large amount of Humbrol Enamels that I use if I can get my family to pick the right color......
    I also use a lot of custom made waterbased indoor color that I get mixed from a scan of the parts I want by my local color shop.....smallest amount of color that way is 0,5liters, so I have plenty of color :) Typical price pr unit is around 6$ in us currency.
    I also use graphite pencils, weathering pigments/colors from the Tamiya weathering sets.They usually match quite good to the armour models.
    I use acrylic paint,black type for tires and other black parts.
    Often I also use chalk in different colors, bought in toyshops for kids :)
    I use marker pens, and soft tip pens that my kids have a lot of....
    So anything that can be useful to this great hobby I collect and use...
    IMHO a model with a lot of white edges and other not painted parts doesn't look that good in my eyes.I have an idea that I might take the coloring /painting a bit far out myselves.I'm sure I could have saved a lot of time only coloring edges.....
    But we all are different and have different way of approaching the issue, so I guess nothing is more right or wrong than the other.
    But to come to a conclusion.....yes, coloring edges are good :)
    Even for a colorblind guy who needs help with almost every color exept black.....
  2. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Aug 25, 2006
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    I started out with that 100 pen set of markers (FibraColor?). They are nice, and often I got a good match - other times not so much. I was really annoyed by the bleeding.

    I've converted over to a 24-color set of acrylic paint from the craft store and I'm really liking the change. No bleed, and if I take the time, I'm finding I'm able to get pretty good matches by mixing when one of the "stock" colors just won't do.

    Another advantage I've found with acrylics is that you can mix some color into your white glue and make a colored "filler paste" if you will, for cracks and whatnot.

  3. Millimodels

    Millimodels Member

    Mar 26, 2007
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    The good thing about using acrylic paint is that you can use it fairly dry and not distort anything, or you can water it down as required.
    If you are using mixed materials such as wire or, dare I mention, plastic acrylics will cover these as well. The use of a single type of paint (type not colour!) can pull a whole diorama together as the surface finishes will all blend. I am using them on an entire model railway.
    They work well for weathering effects too.

    Robin Madge
  4. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

    Oct 26, 2006
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    I color any exposed, visible edge. Sometimes with paint, sometimes with pencils, depending on the situation. I find both means are easy, inexpensive, and effective.

    Colored pencils can be applied dry or wet, as others have noted, providing two different effects (deep and intense versus pale and matte). Sometimes I use both techniques on one edge. For example, if the part is a rusty piece of grey iron, I might first color the edges red, using a wet tip. Then, after it's dry, I will rub grey over that with a dry tip.

    On edges you normally don't have to be so close to the color value, because the eye cannot detect color accurately when the colored area is very small. In this situation, tint (i.e. lightness/darkness) is more important. Often a little grey can make an edge on a part of any color disappear. But sometimes, as in the case of a more prominent edge (or a surface abrasion), I feel a close color match is needed.

    For those situations I mix some watercolors. I think I bought a box of ten assorted tubes of watercolors for something like $4. I love to mix the paint, the colors are so pure and saturated when they come out of the tube. I find it's pretty easy to blend a color that's close enough to be unnoticeable.

    I usually use rather watery colors so that the paint slips off the brush more easily, and doesn't build up on the surface of the part (straight from the tube it's far too thick). There is also less danger of the color being too dark - it's always easier to add more color than remove it. :)

    Bonus - as Rick pointed out, water-based paint can be readily mixed with white glue, should the need arise.